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Hi guys
i adjusted the valves 4 monts ago,the valves were really loose/noisy and we decided to adjust them today,the car runs pretty good now but i wonder how often do i have to repeat this procedure ?
i don't run at the strip,but sometimes i like to floor it,but not much !
i have new rockers/nuts installed when i did the engine rebuild (6-7 months ago) why they come loose ? or is it normal that after a rebuild and some use,everything is acommodating there and a valve adjustment after 4 months its needed ? From what i recall,its not normal.-
What you think ?
the valve bird came back yesterday,we adjusted them on Sunday
im thinking to put an additive there to calm the bird
i think its the pushrod on that little guides pee pee pee pee
how about an additive ?????
PROLONG MAYBE ?
An additive will not help. If valves are losing their adjustment this fast you have a problem somewhere. How many valves involved? Idle thoughts: cam wear? studs pulling out? locks backing off? I would suggest a complete and close inspection cause something isn't right.
Your valves should get adjusted once and that should be good. I have had engines that needed a single re-adjustment after break-in but I would say that only a couple out of 10 or so. ( I am not a professional so I don't have hundreds to draw experience from)
Questions:
How many miles on the cam and lifter swap?
What additive has been used for break in?
What oil are you running currently?
The reasons for these questions:
1. You want to make sure that you are not have a cam failure
2. Cam break-in requires the zinc additive to prevent #1
3. Your oil may be breaking down and thinning out, this will cause the valvetrain to get a little noisy when the car gets hot.
Iroc here ya go :
1 - maybe 1000 miles
2 - i put there mount liqui moly on the cam lobes and lifters
3 - im running 15-40 Shell (Here in Chile most of the cars uses 20-50)
I hope my cam is OK
No no,its not when my car gets hot,even thou we adjusted the valves on sunday
and they were way quiet now,but its a "peep peep" think that i really hate
that comes and goes.....
Iroc here ya go :
1 - maybe 1000 miles
2 - i put there mount liqui moly on the cam lobes and lifters
3 - im running 15-40 Shell (Here in Chile most of the cars uses 20-50)
I hope my cam is OK
No no,its not when my car gets hot,even thou we adjusted the valves on sunday
and they were way quiet now,but its a "peep peep" think that i really hate
that comes and goes.....
Quick question...I don't know about the 87', is that a roller lifter motor or a flat tappet motor? I may have started typing too quick. The break in is more critical on the flat tappet cams than roller lifters. so don't freak about the cam yet, it is probably something simple. I saw that you changed the rocker arms and nuts, why was that? If it is just one there is a chance that the poly lock in the nut is worn and that rocker is working loose...easy fix.
Pull the covers again and check the adjustment cold, there is no reason to work on a hot oil spewing engine
Change out the poly locknut with a fresh one if you find one that backed out.
Last edited by Iroc57; Oct 2, 2008 at 09:07 AM.
Reason: just read the original post again
Roller Cam.-
Yes i think its simple,the valve train is not noisy anymore since Sunday
but the bird comes and goes sometimes,it sounds like a bad pulley,but its not
its a valve or pushrod.-
thanks
Roller Cam.-
Yes i think its simple,the valve train is not noisy anymore since Sunday
but the bird comes and goes sometimes,it sounds like a bad pulley,but its not
its a valve or pushrod.-
thanks
It doesn't sound like adjustment. That would be a ticking/tapping sound and not a squeak or squeal. I think it is time to break out the stethoscope (or a long screwdriver) and pin it down to a specific cylinder. Maybe it is just a squeaky roller on a lifter. I have never heard a chirp from the valve train but as I wrote I don't have hundreds of engines to draw experience from so perhaps one of the pros on here can shed some light.
The reason I ask is because the OEM rockers were self-aligning and so the OEM guides were not supposet to touch the push rods during normal operation.
When going to 1.6:1 self-aligning RRs it's recommended to remove the guides to avoid potential scraping by push rods on the OEM guides.
I'm wondering if with your higher cam lift the push rods may be scraping on the OEM guides???
If you see any hint of wear on the guides and/or push rods you could remove them, trim them back to avoid contact and then install the remnants to keep stock spacing under the rocker studs.
Yes i thought on removing those little guides
what effect will cause removing them ?
i didn't get this " trim them back to avoid contact and then install the remnants to keep stock spacing under the rocker studs "
Since the OEM guides were used only to hold the push rods during assembly and not to contact the push rods during engine operation, the guides are not hardened and so will be easy to cut.
The guides sit under the rocker studs and so serve as "spacers". So I would pull the studs & guide plates, trim back the guide plates (cut off the ears and a little bit more) and then put the guide plates back under the rocker studs to maintain the OEM stud height.
I suppose you could simply use washers of the same thickness as the guide plates.
Of course this all supposes your new rockers are self-aligning; if not you really need to install hardened guide plates and hardened push rods.