Should I flush a/t fluid @ 130k?
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,261
Likes: 4
From: Middle River MD
Should I flush a/t fluid @ 130k?
I'm pretty sure my 89's trans fluid has never been changed. With a little over 130k, the fluid isn't real dirty but not that cherry looking red either. I've heard of problems resulting from high mile trans changes, any truth to this?
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 28,475
Likes: 3,291
From: Hartford WI
So have I. However, most of them are in the same category as the one where you cannot put batteries on concrete floors. Ancient Wives Tales. Usually the problem comes in because the tranny was already suspect or was on the way out. You flush it to try solve the problem or your flush is too little too late. When the trans croaks, why, you blame the cleaning.
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2000
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Drifting
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,363
Likes: 7
From: 1994 LT1 Coupe 6-speed with FX3 & 2000 LS1 Vert 6-Speed with F45 Hunterdon County, NJ
BETTER TO CHANGE THE FLUID than NOT
There are different ways of 'flushing' the tranny fluid.
1. go to a shop which has a special flushing system which exchanges/filters the fluid -- usually piped into the tranny lines where they connect to the radiator.
These systems are the best but most risky in that they may not be putting pure new fluid in and might over-pressurize the system or introduce air bubbles into the fluid
2. change the fluid mutiple times -- each time will introduce 1/3 new fluid, and dilute/improve the older fluid. Don't forget to change the filter/screen at least once.
3. though a bit risky -- some folks have invented their own flushing 'system' by disconnecting one of the tranny lines just before the radiator and with the engine running (and the torque converter spinning), allow the tranny to pump out 1/4-1/3 of the fluid, stop engine -- reconnect line, add back new fluid to fill tube, repeat. Obviously this does not change the filter/screen so actually a combination of #2 and #3 might be best.
1. go to a shop which has a special flushing system which exchanges/filters the fluid -- usually piped into the tranny lines where they connect to the radiator.
These systems are the best but most risky in that they may not be putting pure new fluid in and might over-pressurize the system or introduce air bubbles into the fluid
2. change the fluid mutiple times -- each time will introduce 1/3 new fluid, and dilute/improve the older fluid. Don't forget to change the filter/screen at least once.
3. though a bit risky -- some folks have invented their own flushing 'system' by disconnecting one of the tranny lines just before the radiator and with the engine running (and the torque converter spinning), allow the tranny to pump out 1/4-1/3 of the fluid, stop engine -- reconnect line, add back new fluid to fill tube, repeat. Obviously this does not change the filter/screen so actually a combination of #2 and #3 might be best.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 7,706
Likes: 485
From: Everett WA
C4 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
Almost 4 years ago I bought my 95 with 36K on it. It now has 90K and this Saturday I will be going in for my 3rd trans fluid change (drain change filter & refil --- not a "flush") in the past 60K.
Over-kill? perhaps but I've had no problems with the trans and I always drive the car "briskly". oh yea ... also run a Yank 3200 TC. I run amsoil product in the engine & trans because that's what my local speed shop uses.
Over-kill? perhaps but I've had no problems with the trans and I always drive the car "briskly". oh yea ... also run a Yank 3200 TC. I run amsoil product in the engine & trans because that's what my local speed shop uses.
Last edited by Mr. Peabody; Oct 1, 2008 at 06:39 PM.
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 136
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From: DFW TX
The theory that the trans fluid change causes the failure is commonly caused by the fact that most trans fluids cause glaze on the clutch/steel packs. When the packs have been worn so much that all that causes them to work is the friction of the "glaze", then most people suspect it's the fluid. So they change it. The trans works better for a short time until those detergents start breaking down the glaze and the trans fails completely.
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Advanced
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
From: albrightsville pa
The theory that the trans fluid change causes the failure is commonly caused by the fact that most trans fluids cause glaze on the clutch/steel packs. When the packs have been worn so much that all that causes them to work is the friction of the "glaze", then most people suspect it's the fluid. So they change it. The trans works better for a short time until those detergents start breaking down the glaze and the trans fails completely.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,075
Likes: 109
From: Longmont Co
I don't know. My Dad changed his for the first time before a long trip, just to be proactive, he was having no problems at all. A week later the tranny was toast. The mechanic he talked to blamed the fluid change.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 5,866
Likes: 60
From: Hellinois
Finalist 2020 C4 of the Year - Modified
Almost 4 years ago I bought my 95 with 36K on it. It now has 90K and this Saturday I will be going in for my 3rd trans fluid change (drain change filter & refil --- not a "flush") in the past 60K.
Over-kill? perhaps but I've had no problems with the trans and I always drive the car "briskly". oh yea ... also run a Yank 3200 TC. I run amsoil product in the engine & trans because that's what my local speed shop uses.
Over-kill? perhaps but I've had no problems with the trans and I always drive the car "briskly". oh yea ... also run a Yank 3200 TC. I run amsoil product in the engine & trans because that's what my local speed shop uses.
IMO this is the only acceptable way to take care of your trans. I fail to see how a flush without changing the filter is good, you don't do that to your engine so why subject the trans to it?
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 28,475
Likes: 3,291
From: Hartford WI
But was the fluid long overdue? Was the trans on the way out as indicated by debris in the pan? Did the tech do the filter right or did it fall out? All these things can add up to a problem. If you don't do regular maintenance and change it once and have a problem, it might not be the change that is to blame.
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 136
Likes: 0
From: DFW TX
Think of it as brushing your teeth. When you first start brushing the toothpaste works exactly as it should. After a few minutes the fluoride (cleaner) and the baking soda (friction) start to wear out. Sure you could keep brushing and nothing bad would happen, but once you put a fesh batch of paste on the brush... suddenly the toothpaste is doing what is it supposed to.
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 175
Likes: 1
From: Cave Creek Arizona
Let's face it, if you got 130K out of your trans with no maintenance. You have been very lucky. Either way, you are on borrowed time. Change it and it might fail. Don't change it and it might fail. Take your pick.
I believe in maintaing your car. I would change it.
I believe in maintaing your car. I would change it.
Racer
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 305
Likes: 0
At 130K, it doesnt matter now. You will be looking at a rebuild soon anyway. Just drive it and when it goes, it goes. Dont want to jinx you but I would bet plenty that you would get no more then 6 months before the trans starts acting up with a fluid change. Ask yourself this....If it runs and drives ok, then why mess with it. If you are experiencing some slippage then a change could hopefully only make it better. That old fluid is what is keeping you on the road now.