1996 A/C Vents??
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 147
Likes: 4
From: Hanford CA
1996 A/C Vents??
Weird one.
I've been having an A/C problem with my 1996. The car has about 28000 miles and it takes forever for the A/C to come through the vents. The car has the digital climate control. I took the car to a mechanic and he said he thought it needed an A/C programmer the box located under the dash on the drivers side. He told me 800 bucks. I figured for that much I might as well take it to Chevy. Chevy said the same thing but a lot less money so I had them fix it. They changed the programmer but it still doesn't work. The system starts out in Defrost mode and then after about 5 minutes it switches up to the vents then works fine. Only problem is that is a long 5 minutes when its 100 degrees. I figured it was just a vacuum leak originally since the car is so old.The original mechanic checked for vacuum leaks and said there weren't any.
Any ideas guys? I really hate to keep spending $$$ for guesses.
Michael
I've been having an A/C problem with my 1996. The car has about 28000 miles and it takes forever for the A/C to come through the vents. The car has the digital climate control. I took the car to a mechanic and he said he thought it needed an A/C programmer the box located under the dash on the drivers side. He told me 800 bucks. I figured for that much I might as well take it to Chevy. Chevy said the same thing but a lot less money so I had them fix it. They changed the programmer but it still doesn't work. The system starts out in Defrost mode and then after about 5 minutes it switches up to the vents then works fine. Only problem is that is a long 5 minutes when its 100 degrees. I figured it was just a vacuum leak originally since the car is so old.The original mechanic checked for vacuum leaks and said there weren't any.
Any ideas guys? I really hate to keep spending $$$ for guesses.
Michael
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 2,771
Likes: 138
From: cyberspace NY
it is the HVAC programmer box, but replacing it with another 96 box won't solve the problem. It's specific to 96 that has the poor design rubber nipples.
If you send me your box, and $100, I'll replace the problem part with a hard plastic version of the nipples, and your problems will be solved.
But you have to pull out the box which is above the gas pedal.
it means you have to pull out the seat to make it easier.
Eventually your air flow will only come from the defroster vents, and will never change over to the A/C vents.
If you send me your box, and $100, I'll replace the problem part with a hard plastic version of the nipples, and your problems will be solved.
But you have to pull out the box which is above the gas pedal.
it means you have to pull out the seat to make it easier.
Eventually your air flow will only come from the defroster vents, and will never change over to the A/C vents.
200+
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 117
Likes: 0
From: Argyle TX
it is the HVAC programmer box, but replacing it with another 96 box won't solve the problem. It's specific to 96 that has the poor design rubber nipples.
If you send me your box, and $100, I'll replace the problem part with a hard plastic version of the nipples, and your problems will be solved.
But you have to pull out the box which is above the gas pedal.
it means you have to pull out the seat to make it easier.
Eventually your air flow will only come from the defroster vents, and will never change over to the A/C vents.
If you send me your box, and $100, I'll replace the problem part with a hard plastic version of the nipples, and your problems will be solved.
But you have to pull out the box which is above the gas pedal.
it means you have to pull out the seat to make it easier.
Eventually your air flow will only come from the defroster vents, and will never change over to the A/C vents.
how long is turn around ?
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 3,629
Likes: 28
From: FL
As the blur indicated there are problems with the 96 controller, but you may want to check the 3 port vacuum check valve under the right side fuel rail cover before tackling the box. I only takes a minute to check and doing so saved a friend of mine the contortionist act required to remove the A/C controller.
Many times the plastic nipples deteriorate and break right off, if visual inspection shows the nipples are intact remove the valve and apply vacuum to the single larger manifold side port, it should not hold vacuum. If the valve passes that test you should then apply vacuum to each of the smaller ports they should hold vacuum indicating the one way check valve is functioning correctly, hope that helps.
GM PN15733271, less than $10 from the dealer if needed
Many times the plastic nipples deteriorate and break right off, if visual inspection shows the nipples are intact remove the valve and apply vacuum to the single larger manifold side port, it should not hold vacuum. If the valve passes that test you should then apply vacuum to each of the smaller ports they should hold vacuum indicating the one way check valve is functioning correctly, hope that helps.
GM PN15733271, less than $10 from the dealer if needed
Last edited by toptechx6; Oct 2, 2008 at 07:01 AM. Reason: pictures added
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 3,629
Likes: 28
From: FL
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 2,269
Likes: 142
From: Ottawa Ontario
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Instructor
Joined: Oct 2008
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From: San Diego CA
I had the same problem recently on my LT4. It eventually got to a point where no air would blow through the vents...only the defroster. I brought it to the dealer and they replaced the actuator, which supposedly controls the flow direction. Not sure if you've got the same problem, but it sounds similar. They had a pretty difficult time completing the repair, but it was only about $200
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 2,269
Likes: 142
From: Ottawa Ontario
Except it's a bad design - even when new. Check the link to the thread I posted previously.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 147
Likes: 4
From: Hanford CA
Thanks RUU
This forum really works. The mechanic at the Chevy dealer I had my Vet at was just about to pull the dash and who knows what else. I brought him the info from the link you posted in this thread.
He ended up putting in "stints" within the nipples on the programmer. Worked like a charm. I can only imagine the rattles that there would have been from pulling the dash out. Saved me a bunch of labor hours as well.
Thanks bud! I'd buy you a beer if you were nearby!
Mike Saporetti
He ended up putting in "stints" within the nipples on the programmer. Worked like a charm. I can only imagine the rattles that there would have been from pulling the dash out. Saved me a bunch of labor hours as well.
Thanks bud! I'd buy you a beer if you were nearby!
Mike Saporetti
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 8,700
Likes: 298
From: Ft. Lauderdale Fl
This forum really works. The mechanic at the Chevy dealer I had my Vet at was just about to pull the dash and who knows what else. I brought him the info from the link you posted in this thread.
He ended up putting in "stints" within the nipples on the programmer. Worked like a charm. I can only imagine the rattles that there would have been from pulling the dash out. Saved me a bunch of labor hours as well.
Thanks bud! I'd buy you a beer if you were nearby!
Mike Saporetti
He ended up putting in "stints" within the nipples on the programmer. Worked like a charm. I can only imagine the rattles that there would have been from pulling the dash out. Saved me a bunch of labor hours as well.
Thanks bud! I'd buy you a beer if you were nearby!
Mike Saporetti
Mike, I'm curious. How much did the dealership charge you?
It took me about three hard, hot hours.
Thanks,
Ed
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 147
Likes: 4
From: Hanford CA
I had an extended warranty on the car so it cost me $100 deductible to get both a new programmer and the stint work. I looked at the bill they billed the warranty company and it was over $900. Now that's a deal. Too bad the warranty ends in 500 miles or 2 months from now. 
Mike
Mike