pics?

 

Qwiketz,
Is your current dampner an ATI? If so, pull the pulley portion from the hub and let the pulley portion sit loosely next to the hub. Jack the engine up and completely pull the motor mounts. Lower the engine and let the oil pan come to rest on the cross member. You should be able to slide the pulley portion out from the top. Hope that works for you....know my 6+12 rib ATI pulley was a PITA.

 

I was able to pull the power steering rack to get access. They sent me only the outside of the damper so I need to transfer the internals of my old one to the new one. I'll probably get to it next weekend.

Pics.... I found my camera which I lost in the move, but I can't find the battery charger. I'll keep looking.

 

If forum members order more, is there a way for you to recoup the engineering cost?

Have you sent them a link to this thread?

thanks

 

I'll ask next time I speak to them. The cost on a damper is roughly $1000-1100. I am reusing the two of the three pieces of my current ATI setup so that is how I was able to get it at $660. At the time I ordered I thought I was getting the inner part of the damper and the outer; and not just the shell.

The width of the cog setup is about 1/4" wider than the 8+6 design which puts it really, really close to the opti. I'm still curious if everything will fit fine.

 

so I'm finally starting to get back on track. I ordered the belt for the setup today. When i mocked it up, I tried a 1280 8m 30 belt, but it was too short. I ordered a 1312 8m 30 "super torque" belt which should be about the right length with my 27 tooth upper pulley. It still remains to be seen if this thing will hold together or not(the belt). I expect almost 20 lbs of boost once this thing is done. Can you say, fuel system time?!

 

How is your opti clearance? Can you post up some photos?

 

still not sure yet. I mocked it up but I haven't tightened everything down yet. I found my camera so I'll take some pictures this weekend once I work on it.

 

How are you going to route the belt? I have a similar setup that I bought from a fellow member, but I couldn't get to belt to last on the dyno. Looking at the measurements of your crank pulley, I think it's almost the same as what I've got. But tomorrow I'll double check that and blower pulley as well.
The weird part is that I've contacted Procharger several times and what they have told me is that my crank pulley and blower pulley are too small.

Here's a pic...

[IMG][/IMG]

 

what type of failures were you having on the dyno? Was it shearing off the teeth? What brand of belt also? What belt width are you running?

I'm running the cog setup where the 8 rib serpentine was originally for the blower drive. I'll be running a 30 mm belt.

 

Basically it shears the teeth off. The belt itself won't break, but it keep ripping the teeth off. I'm also running 30mm belt from Gates(powergrip HTD) 8mm.
The blower pulley has 30 teeth and the crank pulley has 75 teeth. About 7.3xx" dia. I've seen 20psi of boost on a few short pulls, but not at max rpm.

 

that's pretty much what I'm worried about. I was really hoping that the sprag blower pulley would have been done by now, but it's starting to look like that is going nowhere. What a shame, because it would help out guys like us big time.

Also, is your car a stick or auto? I talked with a a few guys with mustangs and it seems like the stick guys have more trouble than the auto guys. I did speak to one guy that was able to get the 30mm to live with a very similar pulley setup and a vortech ysi. What blower setup are you running (what procharger model)?

 

On the dyno it doesn't matter if it's a stick or auto.
But now my car has a powerglide in it.
I bought my belts trough BDS(blower drive service) and they told me the belt should withstand the abuse IF the blower isn't locking up or if it is not aligned good. Otherwise the belt should hold.
So, in my case, I don't think the sprag pulley would help.
Before I switched to the glide, I had the 6 speed and did some light cruising with cog setup and it did hold up...and it was nasty....raw power. But then again, it's not the same as on the dyno or strip.
I did everything from switching to a larger i/c and larger blowoff valve(procharger race blowoff valve), tubing etc etc.

Ohh...btw, it's a D1-SC.

 

Where do you order your belts??
Do you have any pics how your belt is routed and tensioner you are using??

 

I have the carrol vortech kit modified for 8 rib. I then switched out the 8 rib for the cogged gear. The tensioner is the stock carroll one which is spring loaded. It is not a fixed tensioner. I also modified it with an additional spring to give it a little more tension because it was only about 5lb ft with only the tensioner. With the spring and the tensioner, it is about 10lb ft. With the 1312 length belt, it will have decent belt wrap, maybe 55-65%. Tooth combo is a 74/27.

I'm using a belt called a "super torque". It comes in lengths that bds couldn't supply. BDS is only about 20 minutes away from my house so I did talk to them a little. I can't remember the name of the store, but do a google search and you'll find it.

I agree, it shouldn't make a difference on the dyno. I did speak to many people that said that on the street the 5 and 6 speeds eat up the belt teeth at a much quicker rate than the autos. People said that pedaling the car also ate up belts. I'm not worried about the belt holding the buildup of power, just the transients when switching gears, pedaling the car, ect. I know I could definately get the belt to last with a sprag, however as I mentioned, I did meet one guy who had his cog setup of our size working for several years on one belt.

I have a couple irons in the fire this week so I'll finish it up over the holiday weekend.

 

Also, if I can't get this 27 to work, which I very well may not, I'm going to go up to a 30 or 32. I'll get less boost under the curve, but up top I'll still make about the same due to no belt slip(I'd imagine). I only was seeing a max of 11 psi out of my ysi with the serpentine. Once or twice I saw up to 14 psi.

In regards to your d1, that's about the smallest pulley I've ever seen on a d1sc. I'm used to seeing them with 3.6 or 4" pullies. At one point, I had a d1r. I don't recall the pulley sizes, but it did come with an 8" crank(for a mustang).

 

I'm not familiar with the 'Carrol Vortech' setup, but I've tried to draw the belt route on my car.......

[IMG][/IMG]

I hope can see/understand the drawing.

Well, to tell you the truth, I'm tired of trying to make the setup work. The sad part is that I know if the belt should hold, it will be an awesome setup. I really don't know why it keep shearing the teeth off...alignment is good, tension is good....I really don't know?!?!?!
But if someone could make it last with a similar setup, maybe I should give it one more try.

 

here's some photos of how the serpentine belt was routed.

 

qwiketz,

I found the site for the belts you ordered and I've contacted them. They told me that their belts are for industrial use only, lowspeed/ hi-torque applications, it can't be bend on the backside etc etc. Also they told me you HAVE to use their pulley otherwise the belt is useless.

What do you think???

And how is the progress on your car???
About the guy you met with the cog setup, do you know anything else on his setup?? Width, belt route.....

edward

 

the guys with a similar setup was on a mustang on the corral.net forum. He was running a 30 mm with a 74/28 setup. He apparently had been running that setup for about 2 years without issues.

I was told that bds has ordered from there several times. I was told that this belt can be back bent(that was one of my main criteria. We'll see what happens though. It's the only belt I could find in a 1312 so it'll be good for mock up purposes and belt length figuring at a minimum.

I"M leaving town for the weekend, so it's going to be Memorial Day at the earliest that I get my setup going.