starter clicking question
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 16,027
Likes: 170
From: oregon
starter clicking question
after doing a clutch job i have had the strangest thing happen. the starter isn't firing 
battery is at 13v
solenoid clicks when the key goes to start. it engages the flywheel as you can hear it unclick when you try to start it, let off, then turn the motor with a breaker bar.
engine spins free, clutch is not grabbing.
the two big cables go where? the FSM isn't specific but i'm guessing 12v of some sort. one is a fused link the other a 4ga cable. i need to test these, anyone know where they go? i have the feeling i knocked something loose when i pulled the transmission. i know the small lead clicks the solenoid to engage. tomorrow i'm going to crawl under there and see what i can find. i humbly welcome ideas on this.
battery is at 13v
solenoid clicks when the key goes to start. it engages the flywheel as you can hear it unclick when you try to start it, let off, then turn the motor with a breaker bar.
engine spins free, clutch is not grabbing.
the two big cables go where? the FSM isn't specific but i'm guessing 12v of some sort. one is a fused link the other a 4ga cable. i need to test these, anyone know where they go? i have the feeling i knocked something loose when i pulled the transmission. i know the small lead clicks the solenoid to engage. tomorrow i'm going to crawl under there and see what i can find. i humbly welcome ideas on this.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 8,838
Likes: 31
From: Australia
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,171
Likes: 1
From: Warwick RI
after doing a clutch job i have had the strangest thing happen. the starter isn't firing
battery is at 13v
solenoid clicks when the key goes to start. it engages the flywheel as you can hear it unclick when you try to start it, let off, then turn the motor with a breaker bar.
engine spins free, clutch is not grabbing.
the two big cables go where? the FSM isn't specific but i'm guessing 12v of some sort. one is a fused link the other a 4ga cable. i need to test these, anyone know where they go? i have the feeling i knocked something loose when i pulled the transmission. i know the small lead clicks the solenoid to engage. tomorrow i'm going to crawl under there and see what i can find. i humbly welcome ideas on this.
battery is at 13v
solenoid clicks when the key goes to start. it engages the flywheel as you can hear it unclick when you try to start it, let off, then turn the motor with a breaker bar.
engine spins free, clutch is not grabbing.
the two big cables go where? the FSM isn't specific but i'm guessing 12v of some sort. one is a fused link the other a 4ga cable. i need to test these, anyone know where they go? i have the feeling i knocked something loose when i pulled the transmission. i know the small lead clicks the solenoid to engage. tomorrow i'm going to crawl under there and see what i can find. i humbly welcome ideas on this.
What engine spins free?
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,171
Likes: 1
From: Warwick RI
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 16,027
Likes: 170
From: oregon
grounds were ran to the bellhousing
engine spins free means the clutch isn't binding
the shim idea could be something. however, same flywheel, same starter
it sounds like the gear is poping out but there is no power to turn the starter. i wish i had a zing, i just have a dead battery sounding click.
where do those two wires on the starter go anyway? i know the small one is switched to the ignition but how about the two wires on the larger post?
engine spins free means the clutch isn't binding
the shim idea could be something. however, same flywheel, same starter
it sounds like the gear is poping out but there is no power to turn the starter. i wish i had a zing, i just have a dead battery sounding click. where do those two wires on the starter go anyway? i know the small one is switched to the ignition but how about the two wires on the larger post?
Last edited by racebum; Oct 19, 2008 at 04:26 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,858
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From: Santa Maria CA
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Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,171
Likes: 1
From: Warwick RI
grounds were ran to the bellhousing
engine spins free means the clutch isn't binding
the shim idea could be something. however, same flywheel, same starter it sounds like the gear is poping out but there is no power to turn the starter. i wish i had a zing, i just have a dead battery sounding click.
where do those two wires on the starter go anyway? i know the small one is switched to the ignition but how about the two wires on the larger post?
engine spins free means the clutch isn't binding
the shim idea could be something. however, same flywheel, same starter
it sounds like the gear is poping out but there is no power to turn the starter. i wish i had a zing, i just have a dead battery sounding click. where do those two wires on the starter go anyway? i know the small one is switched to the ignition but how about the two wires on the larger post?
Advanced
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 93
Likes: 0
From: Soperton Georgia
I have a 94 that has started doing the same thing as quoted in the above post. It doesn't do it all the time though. I thought I was going to have to call a wrecker in town the other day but it finally turned the engine over. The starter doesn't seem to be dragging when it works properly. The car has never had anything done to it since I've had it.
Any ideas on this one?
Any ideas on this one?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,858
Likes: 7
From: Santa Maria CA
Sounds like you need a new starter solenoid, which can be replaced easily for a lot less than the cost of a new starter. It's only held on by a couple of screws.
Basically, if the starter is clicking, then you are getting voltage to it. Use an aligator clip and a volt meter to verify battery voltage right at the solenoid. If there is plenty of voltage, and the connection is tight and clean, pull the starter and replace the solenoid.
Starter solenoid. Quick repeated turns of the key sometimes get's it to crank.
Basically, if the starter is clicking, then you are getting voltage to it. Use an aligator clip and a volt meter to verify battery voltage right at the solenoid. If there is plenty of voltage, and the connection is tight and clean, pull the starter and replace the solenoid.
I have a 94 that has started doing the same thing as quoted in the above post. It doesn't do it all the time though. I thought I was going to have to call a wrecker in town the other day but it finally turned the engine over. The starter doesn't seem to be dragging when it works properly. The car has never had anything done to it since I've had it.
Any ideas on this one?
Any ideas on this one?
Last edited by 86PACER; Oct 19, 2008 at 09:14 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,363
Likes: 7
From: 1994 LT1 Coupe 6-speed with FX3 & 2000 LS1 Vert 6-Speed with F45 Hunterdon County, NJ
Actually, just because 12+ volts exist at the starter selenoid doesn't mean the amperage needed to turn the starter is available.
One classic problem which can occur is corrosion between the wire and the end-fittings, reducing the strands available to carry the amperage through to the end-fitting and thus the starter.
When this happens, voltage can still get through, but amperage cannot.
This can happen with both the positive and negative cables (albeit more often with the positive).
Before replacing any parts, suggest trying a test to rule-out the positive battery cable -- CAREFULLY, connect a jumper cable to the starter bolt where the battery cable was connected, and then to the battery's positive post and then try to start the engine like normal with the ignition key.
Similiarly, perform the same test with the battery cable to the block to rule-out the negative cable.
One classic problem which can occur is corrosion between the wire and the end-fittings, reducing the strands available to carry the amperage through to the end-fitting and thus the starter.
When this happens, voltage can still get through, but amperage cannot.
This can happen with both the positive and negative cables (albeit more often with the positive).
Before replacing any parts, suggest trying a test to rule-out the positive battery cable -- CAREFULLY, connect a jumper cable to the starter bolt where the battery cable was connected, and then to the battery's positive post and then try to start the engine like normal with the ignition key.
Similiarly, perform the same test with the battery cable to the block to rule-out the negative cable.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 16,027
Likes: 170
From: oregon
the connections sound like my problem. i just picked up a reman starter, not that that is any promise of it working. this happend a few weeks ago when it did what the guy above stated. it clicked, clicked, then started. i feel a wire problem that is limiting current. i assume that big *** 4ga lead is 12v?
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 54,124
Likes: 30
From: Cincinnati, Oh USA
Measure the battery terminal voltage during an attempted crank. The battery voltage must not fall below 9.0 volts or you have a discharged battery, poor battery cable connections to the battery, or a battery at the end of its life (no matter how old). You can tell the state of charge of the battery by measuring its no load voltage at its terminals. 12.0 volts and below, discharged (charge it up overnight). 12.9 volts and above, fully charged. If your dash lights go out when you hear the starter solenoid click, then you have poor cable connections to the battery. Clean the cable lugs, bolts, and the battery terminals.
Another reason why you hear the solenoid click but no cranking is due to the condition of the large contacts inside the starter that are forced together at the end of the solenoid stroke and these contacts switch current to the starter motor. These contacts get pitted and blackened and must make good low resistance connection to pass the 100+ amps to the starter motor. If you can hit, "crank", many times and the starter eventually cranks, then you need to replace these contacts as they are worn.
Another reason why you hear the solenoid click but no cranking is due to the condition of the large contacts inside the starter that are forced together at the end of the solenoid stroke and these contacts switch current to the starter motor. These contacts get pitted and blackened and must make good low resistance connection to pass the 100+ amps to the starter motor. If you can hit, "crank", many times and the starter eventually cranks, then you need to replace these contacts as they are worn.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 16,027
Likes: 170
From: oregon
tell me about it ! i spent two hours testing things before i had this idea of testing the main lead. when i noticed there was no voltage i tracked it down.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,363
Likes: 7
From: 1994 LT1 Coupe 6-speed with FX3 & 2000 LS1 Vert 6-Speed with F45 Hunterdon County, NJ
Yes, it should run from the battery's positive terminal to the starter and conducts 12vDC positive voltage to the starter.
There is a similiar (albeit thinner -- 6-8 gauge) black wire from the battery's negative post to the bell-housing driver side to conduct the negative voltage back to the battery from the engine.
There is a similiar (albeit thinner -- 6-8 gauge) black wire from the battery's negative post to the bell-housing driver side to conduct the negative voltage back to the battery from the engine.