Single Plain EFI???
http://performanceparts.com/part.php?partID=139014
This is because a longer intake runner keeps the velocity up and a single plane (short runner) requires higher rpm's to get the mix moving.
That's my take
You should have heard the bs story I got when I bought the intake used mounted by 10/28 x 2 1/4" screws that were used to hold the rails in position (not to mention that the rails were not set to the proper height for injectors). Mix that set-up with 60 psi fuel psi on full boost, and you have rails that lift and a massive fuel leak. I am just fortunate that the fuel did not make it to the glowing header. It nearly cost me my car.

Some CF members will "say anything" to make a sale.
A lot of work (read as lots of welding to lower / level the rails, fill the original holes in the wrong location, beef up new bolt hole area, locate and drill and tap correct 1/4 x 20 mounts, re-weld complete TB plate area, as it was thin and porous and had been ground very thin in areas (looked to be leaking), reweld parts of the water passages, then re-machining all of these areas, etc) went into fixing the "hack job" that I was sold. And to top all of this off, on occasion this member still tries to sell more units made like the one he sold me.

Purchase a quality product from a reputable vendor, and make sure you know what you are getting.
Here is my finished product, off the car, then installed.


Aaron
The shop that converted my single plane used tabs from the carb mounting area to the rail as seen here...

I was warned and it happened...you could see them lift when hit with 43psi and I too got lucky. The bungs were also poorly done and not level contributing to the problem.
Do you have any pics that better show the method of hold down you are using? The description is nice but a visual to go with it would be great. I need to make some similar changes...
I have an Edelbrock E-victor something on the current motor and the hold down method is great but I don't know how easy to duplicate.
And I don't mean to hijack, this will be useful stuff for anyone looking to make the switch so...it's at least close?
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
If I had it to do over again, I would do something similar to what you see on the intake in the kit (i.e stanchions off the intake base). Mine work well and are very steady, but stanchions tied to the intake would be better.
Mechguy / Pipe,
I ran a SR with a D1 for a long time and wanted to reduce the TQ, so I went to a heavily modded 1206FP MRII (had been completely cut apart and lots of welding done internally to equalize airflow to the front cylinders). At the same time as moving to the MRII, I also moved from a D1 to the D1R, so I really didn't loose TQ due to the 2300CFM of the D1R blower).
After you get above ~600WHP, you start having issues with air distribution in the MR, and I was always running lean in the rear, and fat in the front cylinders. I switched to the C4SP and also did some more work to the AFR215CPs. I went from 870WHP on a DynoJet to 824WHP on a Mustang dyno (at 11.8 psi). If you figure 12-15% differential, that puts it above the old combo (somewhere above 915WHP). I lost no HP or TQ by switching, but other variables were changed, so not really a fair test.
As a side note, I also added the MB, and dyno tested with that and the twin billet 58MM, and there was no power gain. I also pulled the 9" cone K&N (no filter) and showed a gain of less than 2WHP (within testing variability). I need to get the car tested at the new boost levels (25+ psi), but no luck and unwilling shops to date.
Aaron
Last edited by AKS Racing; Oct 23, 2008 at 05:35 PM.
I wish it was a blower application. If I had to chose a head unit, I would go right for the F1A.
Nick
I wish it was a blower application. If I had to chose a head unit, I would go right for the F1A.
Nick
The F1A is a nice head unit that spins (reverse) a bit faster than the D1 series due to the better materials and the higher step-up ratio (5.4:1 vs the 4.1:1) to deliver 1650CFM vs the std D series at 1400CFM. Or you could just go with the F1R with their redesigned (tweaked) impellor that flows just under 2300CFM. These are all nice blowers.
I run one of the new impellors on my D1R and it has plenty of head room.
Aaron















