How do you get the driveshaft off?
The ujoints are totally shot.

Thanks

 

Here is a step by step Tec Tip from our own forum library...

http://personal.tmlp.com/scorp/vette...nts/index.html

 

Great writeup on the HALFSHAFT. He wanted r&r of the driveshaft U-joints.
Mike

 

On my 90, I get the car up in the air around 16" (4 stands) remove exhaust, and e. brake cable that runs under the d.shaft/c.beam.
Put trans jack (or if you don't have use a floor jack w/a piece of plywood under the trans pan) under trans. applying some pressure, to keep the trans in same position so there is no motor weight on the beam (having a jack on it allows for easy re-install/assembly of beam bolts later) and then remove rear c beam bolts. In the front part of c beam, remove the rear bolt and loosen front one so that the beam can swing enough at the rear to allow extra room for the d.shaft to come out. Take out rear universal caps/bolts on d.shaft (I believe 8mm, depending on the condition, maybe use some pb blaster on bolts), you will then need to put car in neutral so that you can spin the shaft to get at the other 2 bolts/cap. From here you will push the shaft forward into the transmission (as far as it will go) to allow the u-joint to clear the pinion yolk (if u-joint is stuck/rusted, place a pry bar between the yolk and joint to spread it apart). You will allow the shaft to come straight down past the yolk, and then pull it out of the trans. towards the rear of the car. Obviously, after new u-joints are installed reverse the process.
Now, I am not sure if on all years the c beam needs to come loose or moved, but on mine there is very little room between the tunnel and the c beam and is neccesary.........hope this helps.
This pic shows the room you have to work with (note the weld trim/ body overlap above and to the sides of the d.shaft which is the reason for the c.beam to be moved)

 

I have dropped my driveshaft with the C Beam in place, no issues at all.

Didn't even touch the E brake cable.

Use a 8mm socket on the bolts and then pry the DS out.

Vic

 

With not having to remove the E brake cable. I removed my entire transmission without removing the cable - mainly because I didn't have the tool to do it!

Those four 8 mm bolts are in a weird position and are VERY EASY to round-off if you're not careful. I ended up putting new Spicer straps and bolts on there after I messed up the old ones. Use Blue Loctite on them when re-installing.

Also, if you leave the C-beam in place, don't forget to put the car in neutral so you can turn the driveshaft to access all the 8 mm bolts.

 

2nd person is handy ; need to lock in gear to crack 8mm bolts ; then rotate shaft to undo other side.Saves having to crawl out from under car