my antenna didn't work, i ripped it out, instead of trying to wrap my head around it.

i'm tempted to do the same with this fx3 stuff, such a novelty, it worked briefly, and i found myself, switching to soft around town and hard on the freeway, i liked that. and even then it was never soft enuff, or hard enough,

c'mon, is there some newer technology out there that can mimic this kind of behavior without electronics?

are edelbrocks good for this, comments??

lastly someone please detail the procedure to disarm the entire system, with no collateral issues, i dug into the ole threads, but you know i got a headache now...

 

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1558652064-post2.html

 

that's for anutha day bro, this 383 wupasofa motor your giving me is all i can take for now

sticking paperclips in electrical terminals and shorting the car out right now is not in the cards,

i'm gonna pour myself a shot of jager and call it

 

okay i stuck a paper clip to a and c and i don't see no blinking of lights were do i look. and what for?

 

Once you ground pins A and C, you need to turn the ignition switch to the ON position but don't start the engine. The Service Ride Control light will begin to flash in a series of values.

The codes will start with a code 12, then any error codes, then another Code 12. As long as the ignition switch is on the code sequences wil flash over and over.

There is a slight pause between each of the two code numbers and the codes are repeated 3 times before going to the next value. It look something like this:
Code 12: flash, flash-flash (then repeats twice more)
Now a slightly longer pause
Code 32: flash-flash-flash, flash-flash (repeats two more times)

The codes should be in numerical sequence.

At the end of all of the codes, you will get another Code 12 before it starts all over again.

Post the codes you are getting and we can go from there.

As long as codes are present, the system goes into a fail-safe mode where the controller sets any shocks that reply to the soft setting.

One of the nice things about FX3 is that vehicle speed plays a part in the shock setting regardless of what position the switch is in. For example the Tour setting is actually stiffer at 70 MPH than the Performance setting at 25 MPH.

And Bilstein can rebuild the shocks and can also set uo custom valving based on what you want from the car. Doug Rippie has replacement PROM chips for the controller (it's in the box behind the driver's seat) that further adjusts the system. Bilstein's facility is in Poway CA near San Diego.

The system is pricey but it does work. If you don't want to do repairs right now, I would store the OEM shocks and the actuators and install a set of KYB Gas-A-Just shocks. They are cheaper than the Edelbrocks and work well for cruising and some "spirited" driving.

I had a 92 'vert that had FX3 and wound up posting a bunch of stuff about the system here but I don't think the search function will bring any of it up. I tracked my 92 once and the first run group, I set the switch at Performance and the car did very well. For the next run group, the switch somehow got set to Tour and the car was horrible, just as soft as could be. I flipped the switch in a sweeper and it was like a night and day difference.

 

jumped a and c, no blinking nowhere, steady ssr

comments?

 

Just to make sure, are you using the correct pins on the ALDL??

There are two rows of pins in the ALDL and the top row is where you place the paperclip/jumper.

They are labeled backwards when you look at them: F - E - D - C - B - A

D and E are actually not used or defined in the FSM, but I put them in there for location reference. Pin A is a ground

 

i have the hush panel off for other work and the aldl is loose, i read the a,b,c,d....

i jumped the a to c

no action or reaction, no blinking no nothing

 

Does the light come on when you turn the key to on and do the bulb test?

 

service ride select, is the light right? that should be blinking?

 

The only FSM I have is for my old 92 but the codes and test procedures should be the same.

The FSM states that when the IGN switch in turned to ON, system voltages is applied from the AIR BAG fuse to the SRC module at the "Ignition 1" input terminal C16. If you look at the SRC module (in the compartment behind the driver's seat) there will be a 4-wire harness that is connected to the SRC module. C16 is a pink/black wire at one end of the connector. So you should see 12v here if the AIR BAG fuse is good. If the SRC module is working properly, it will turn on the SRC light for a few seconds if no codes are present. The wire to the lamp is at the other side of the connector, terminal D6, a brown/white wire.

There are 4 steps in the test to determine why there are no codes flashing.

1. Disconnect the SRC module wire connector, turn the ignition to ON. With a DVM set to DC volts, measure voltage between this C16 pink/black wire and a good ground. If no volts, check the AIR BAG fuse. If the fuse is good there is an open circuit along this wire. With volts present, GOTO 2.

2. Measure voltage between C16 and D16 which is a black/red wire next to the D6 guy at the other end of the connector. No volts, check for an open ground. WIth volts present, GOTO 3

3. Measure voltage between D16 (black/red) and D6 (brown/white) wires. This tests the SRC light and if it's already on in a steady state, there has to be voltge present. The book says that no volts means a burned out bulb or that wire is broken (open circuit) or the circuit board in the DIC is bad where that wire attaches. So finally, GOTO 4

4. Turn ignition off. Switch the DVM to Ohms and check for continunity between terminal C of the ALDL and C8, the light green wire on the harness. If yes, replace the SRC module. If there is no continunity, there is an open circuit on the D6 light green wire (goes between the SRC module and ALDL pin C.

 

thanks for taking the time out to render such a detailed diagnosis procedure, will go over it soon, at cursory look,

i don't have an airbag(89) so does this completely not apply?

 

Without an airbag, then the power would come from some other feed. If you do get voltage from the Step 1 check, then it's sort of a moot point I guess.

But Step 3 that checks the DIC light (which is on) requires voltage from C16 anyway.

 

ttt

 

there is power at C16 pink with blk stripe.

no black with red stripe wire, but there is a red with a black stripe.

no light green wire,

so basically I can't do the test until I get a FSM, if anyone can post the proper year (1989) that would help.

I have taken the module out and the light went out, at least that is good, now I'm interested in fixing this thing.

how much does a module cost and is it interchangable from year to year?

 

Don't know module cost, but they ARE NOT interchangable from year to year. There were two different versions of the module and the shocks -- don't remember where the year break was, but likely it was in 91 or 92 when the change occured.

BTW, since your FX module not going into diagnostic mode is very odd -- and given that your ALDC connector is disconnected from the hush panel -- just in case -- here is a link with a very good picture and diagram of your connector -- just in case you have been shorting (paper-clip between) the wrong connector plugs (scroll down 2-3 pages):
http://www.aldlcable.com/

 

they are lettered a,b,c,d,e and so on, on the housing, no codes, didn't 5 months ago didn't 2 dyas ago, I took the module off and the SRC light went out.

 

Dude I read somewhere it was A and B and not A and C,

so I tried it today, to check some other stuff, of course I took out the SR module, and it started the diagnositic mode, no codes, so all is coopl unitl i plug in the sr module....:au to:

 

This link is pretty detailed re: code recovery.

http://www.corvettephotographs.com/c4vettes/codes.htm

 

I have all the stock stuff from my 91 FX3 system if you want it. I don't know if it will interchange with your year, but shoot me a PM if you are interested.

BTW, Bilstein will re-valve the stock FX3 shocks for about $100 per shock. When they do that, they can alter the settings. I know they can make the shocks extremely stiff, maybe they can do super soft too. That might be a way to get the broad range that you are looking for.