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1992 LT1 with J55 13" front brakes. I'm trying to replace the front rotors, but can't seem to remove the old ones. I removed the caliper. Nothing else seems to be holding the rotor on, but it won't budge. Could it be rusted to the hub? I've used penetrating oil and a small sledge hammer with a block of wood, but it won't come off?
Is there anything else you have to do or remove? Any help appreciated.
Nope, you're on the right track. Just lots of tapping with a sledge hammer and a few gallons of PB-Blaster. Make sure to tap evenly; either rotate the rotor or go around the rotor while tapping to get all of it loose, and to make sure you don't warp anything.
I used a short 2x4 and two C-clamps as a makeshift puller. Worked like a charm on the Vette when I changed those, but failed miserably on the daily driver recently. It's worth a try to avoid the PB mess or beating on bearings that might still be good.
Its a Chevy not a Ferrari! Just give it a good, hard whack and be done with it. I had to change pads at the track one time and the backing plate on one pad was literally welded to the rotor; I was parked next to some pristine Porsches(they never have to do a brake job at the track, Brembos) I violently beat the caliper off with a chisel and a hammer to the amazement of these guys; slapped in new pads ad made my next session on time.
The front rotors on my Expedition were on there so well that I had to take an angle grinder to cut some slits in them to relieve pressure. After the third cut they literally fell off!!! I had used PB blaster, Kroil, a torch, and a sledge hammer until I read this trick on the internet. The only thing you have to be careful about it cutting into the wheel bearing assembly!!! I did the majority of the cut with an angle grinder, but turned to my Dremel with reinforced cut-off tool when I was getting close to going through the rotor. I was doing each cut progressively, so on my 2nd rotor, I only had to do 2 cuts before it fell off.
I didn't have any problems on the vette, but if you ever came into this problem again, banging it might do more damage than cutting 2 slits.
Pic:
Last edited by janarvae; Nov 14, 2008 at 10:47 AM.
Its a Chevy not a Ferrari! Just give it a good, hard whack and be done with it. I had to change pads at the track one time and the backing plate on one pad was literally welded to the rotor; I was parked next to some pristine Porsches(they never have to do a brake job at the track, Brembos) I violently beat the caliper off with a chisel and a hammer to the amazement of these guys; slapped in new pads ad made my next session on time.
i about to do my brake and now i don't think i want to because of this friction fits stuff,
why do vette brakes have problems on the track and brembo don't are that that much better?
why do vette brakes have problems on the track and brembo don't are that that much better?
A combination of design, material and quality compared to the PRB calipers. Fixed caliper design vs. floating pin, monoblock aircraft quality aluminum vs. low grade porous casting, high temp material characteristics should be vastly better on the Brembos vs. the A356 or worse that PBR uses. After all a 6 piston Brembo setup with multi piece rotors probably costs almost as much as one of our C4's.
I have had pretty good luck cleaning them up and then heating the rotor with a turbo torch using MAP gas. Heated them up tapped on them and they popped off.
You can pick up a propane, MAPP, or oxygen torch at Home Depot, Lowes, Walmart, or a local hardware store. The propane will be the cheapest initially AND for replacement cylinders (like $2). I was very surprised at the variety of uses I found for my propane torch.....
Last edited by janarvae; Nov 16, 2008 at 11:26 AM.
You can pick up a propane, MAPP, or oxygen torch at Home Depot, Lowes, Walmart, or local hardware store. The propane will be the cheapest initially and for replacement cylinders (like $2). I was very surprised at the variety of uses I found for my propane torch.....
Amazingly good at weeding in mulched areas as well
The front rotors on my Expedition were on there so well that I had to take an angle grinder to cut some slits in them to relieve pressure. After the third cut they literally fell off!!! I had used PB blaster, Kroil, a torch, and a sledge hammer until I read this trick on the internet. The only thing you have to be careful about it cutting into the wheel bearing assembly!!! I did the majority of the cut with an angle grinder, but turned to my Dremel with reinforced cut-off tool when I was getting close to going through the rotor. I was doing each cut progressively, so on my 2nd rotor, I only had to do 2 cuts before it fell off.
I didn't have any problems on the vette, but if you ever came into this problem again, banging it might do more damage than cutting 2 slits.
Pic:
Whaaaaaooooo.
Cuting a rotor with a dremel !
Personaly I use a 10 pounds hammer with a long arm and let it "fall" softly on the rotor. One good shoot and it pop out clean.
1992 LT1 with J55 13" front brakes. I'm trying to replace the front rotors, but can't seem to remove the old ones. I removed the caliper. Nothing else seems to be holding the rotor on, but it won't budge. Could it be rusted to the hub? I've used penetrating oil and a small sledge hammer with a block of wood, but it won't come off?
Is there anything else you have to do or remove? Any help appreciated.
i just changed mine on my 96, same thing , use a 5 pounder
and tap all around without hitting the studs and it will brake lose,
no biggie it'll come off...
Last edited by ol school; Nov 16, 2008 at 12:53 PM.