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I'm working on getting my engine back in and have a question: I am attempting to re-install my harmonic balancer, and the crank key (i.e. small "u-shaped" piece of steel) is refusing to go back into it's race.
Is this key necessary? (I already have the engine at tdc for #1.)
I'm working on getting my engine back in and have a question: I am attempting to re-install my harmonic balancer, and the crank key (i.e. small "u-shaped" piece of steel) is refusing to go back into it's race.
Is this key necessary? (I already have the engine at tdc for #1.)
Note: 95 c4 lt1, manual
Thanks!
Joe
New Braunfels, TX
You need it to locate and hold the crankshaft timing chain gear in place. Just use a fine file or a wire wheel to knock the edge down on the key. They fit pretty tight, so you may just need to tap it in place.
There is one for the crank timing gear, that one is a-ok.
What about the one that sits under the harmonic balancer hub? That key doesn't engage a slot like the crank timing gear. Is that one necessary as well?
There is one for the crank timing gear, that one is a-ok.
What about the one that sits under the harmonic balancer hub? That key doesn't engage a slot like the crank timing gear. Is that one necessary as well?
Thanks again,
Joe
LT1/4 engines don't use a key with the stock balancer/hub assembly. The hub isn't slotted to accept a key. Long story short is that you shouldn't install a key there unless you've had the hub modified or you're using an aftermarket balancer.
There is one for the crank timing gear, that one is a-ok.
What about the one that sits under the harmonic balancer hub? That key doesn't engage a slot like the crank timing gear. Is that one necessary as well?
Thanks again,
Joe
Are you saying your crank has TWO slots for a woodruff keys? If so, your crank can't be stock, right?
If your crank DOES HAVE two slots, check your hub to see if it is cut for the second key. If it isn't you can have it cut. There are a couple of sites I've found using GOOGLE that offer this service for around $80 or so.
If your crank is setup for two keys I WOULDN'T skip installing both of them. Skipping the second key could cause the hub to end up slipping/spinning.
My aftrmarket Eagle crank was cut for two keys and I opted for an aftermarket damper, but that's a pretty pricey option. In my case it didn't much matter because I wanted to go with a new damper anyway.
Are you saying your crank has TWO slots for a woodruff keys? If so, your crank can't be stock, right?
If your crank DOES HAVE two slots, check your hub to see if it is cut for the second key. If it isn't you can have it cut. There are a couple of sites I've found using GOOGLE that offer this service for around $80 or so.
If your crank is setup for two keys I WOULDN'T skip installing both of them. Skipping the second key could cause the hub to end up slipping/spinning.
My aftrmarket Eagle crank was cut for two keys and I opted for an aftermarket damper, but that's a pretty pricey option. In my case it didn't much matter because I wanted to go with a new damper anyway.
Keep us posted.
Jake
Stock LT1/4 cranks are cut for two keys. The second key way was not used. If install a second key you must buy an aftermarket balancer/hub or have the OEM hub modified to accept a key . The OEM hub is an interference fit.
Stock LT4 crank:
Last edited by 96GS#007; Nov 22, 2008 at 06:56 PM.
[QUOTE=96GS#007;1567941933]Stock LT1/4 cranks are cut for two keys. The second key way was not used. If install a second key you must buy an aftermarket balancer/hub or have the OEM hub modified to accept a key . The OEM hub is an interference fit.
Right! Thanks for that. I forgot that the crank had two but the hub wasn't broached for the key.
I do recall that Golen Engines is one of the shops that always uses and recommended two keys and will broach your hub for around $80.
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