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I THINK I may have a cracked radiator, but it may just be the lower hose. Under my car, there is continually a puddle of coolant, and the LOW COOLANT light comes on when I'm on the freeway. (But goes off under normal city driving) Now, it doesn't drip at all while I'm moving, but once I stop or turn the car off, it leaks. It's not like a GUSHER, but it's more of a nag. The LOW COOLANT light basically only comes on when I get on the freeway. Any ideas? Also, how much would a new GM Radiator be? (Or aftermarket?) THANKS!
P.S.- I've already replaced the radiator cap, and I've "burped" it several times. Also, about 2 months ago, I took out the radiator and cleaned it off and cleaned out the cavity.
Hopefully it's just the lower radiator hose that's deteireorated.
You'll first have to find the source of the leak, but if its only leaking when stopped I'd check the bottom weep hole on the water pump. That is where mine was leaking from and I had similar symtoms. Moving would cause water/antifreeze to be blown away, not leaving evidence of source.
You might also check your "overflow" reservoir to see if perhaps it is the source of your leak. I had a similar problem that turned out to be the drain plug on my radiator. Mine did not stay "minor" for long though and I rather doubt it to be your problem. Good luck tracking it down...
I have found that you have to "pack" the C4 radiator to get it full by revving the motor to about 2K by hand and filling the radiator with your other hand and then replacing the cap before letting it idle back.
I don't think it's the water pump's weep hole, because the leaking looked to be coming out of the radiator cavity on the extreme passenger side. That's why I think it might be the lower radiator hose, or maybe a hole down there somewhere. Again, hopefully it's just the hose *fingers crossed*
Tim, make sure you check the black plastic side tanks on the radiator for cracks. Check them closely with a flashlight, especially around the hose bosses. Also make sure the clamps are tight (obviously).
A new LT1/4 GM radiator is about $200 from Jeff Kopp, so I assume the L98 is similar. Although I would look into some of the aftermarket radiators which are supposed to be higher quality.
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I have found that you have to "pack" the C4 radiator to get it full by revving the motor to about 2K by hand and filling the radiator with your other hand and then replacing the cap before letting it idle back.
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My hand gets too tired when I try to rev mine to 2K by hand.
I need some sort of "hand cranker" on it.:reddevil
It's also too hard to do all that hand reving and fill the radiator with my other hand. Whew, can YOU do all that? :) :)
Before you do anything you have to find out where the leak is. It sounds like the system is loosing coolant only under pressure. Get hold of a pressure tester (PeP Boys and other large auto parts stores loan them) and check the system. It could be anything from a loose clamp to a cracked radiator.
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I have found that you have to "pack" the C4 radiator to get it full by revving the motor to about 2K by hand and filling the radiator with your other hand and then replacing the cap before letting it idle back.
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My hand gets too tired when I try to rev mine to 2K by hand.
I need some sort of "hand cranker" on it.:reddevil
It's also too hard to do all that hand reving and fill the radiator with my other hand. Whew, can YOU do all that? :) :)
(you gotta visualize this one ;) ;) ;) ;)
You mean I'm the only one who can hand crank a SB chevy at 2k?:) I know you know what I mean but, too elaborate...
If you pop the radiator cap and then lean over the right tire and open the throttle by hand to about 2k, you can watch the coolant level drop considerably. As you are doing this, you use your other hand to fill the radiator, no not your actual hand, but use your hand to pour a container of AF in there. Before you release the throttle, re-cap it or it will burp all over your driveway.:)
I recently went through a similar problem with my LT4, replaced the lower hose only to find out that the plastic side tank was cracked. I bought a Griffin aluminum radiator but am seeing little difference other than the significant cutting of the pads necessary to install it. On the day I replaced my radiator I had to put three gallons of water in the car. Fortunately my new radiator had come in that day so I made it.
BTW you can have the engine hold low revs like that by propping the throttle cable mount open. A houskey is good for about 1500 RPMs in my car.
VetNutJim, I think your grip on the throttle may be "inefficient". Try reaching over it and pushing & pulling at the same time. You sort of rotate the throttle about the throttle plate shaft.
Or you could just block the throttle open at about 2k RPM or so.