U Joints failure ???
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 8,448
Likes: 27
From: Valparaiso
U Joints failure ???
i took the 87 this morning for small cruise, 5 minutes later,i felt a kick
under me "BOOM" Metallic sound like a big stone hit my exhaust system,from then,it started with a sound,that does not go away
i drove it back super slow and i parked it.-
when i put the shifter on Drive or OD or Reverse,it kicks real hard
i suspect my possibilities :
1- U joints
2- Tranny ? i had a TH200C on a firebird that did something like that
but the car suddenly stopped,real bad like i was hitting the brakes.-
i hope is not but if it is ...it is-
3- Torque converter ? i dont think so,its brand new and sound comes from the middle - rear
4 - Gear and pinion ? - sounds like it ..but i think the sound its not coming from the rear,and the kick strenght when i put on D
has nothing to do with it,sound is similar.-
Here's what i recorded this morning :
THANKS !
under me "BOOM" Metallic sound like a big stone hit my exhaust system,from then,it started with a sound,that does not go away
i drove it back super slow and i parked it.-
when i put the shifter on Drive or OD or Reverse,it kicks real hard
i suspect my possibilities :
1- U joints
2- Tranny ? i had a TH200C on a firebird that did something like that
but the car suddenly stopped,real bad like i was hitting the brakes.-
i hope is not but if it is ...it is-
3- Torque converter ? i dont think so,its brand new and sound comes from the middle - rear
4 - Gear and pinion ? - sounds like it ..but i think the sound its not coming from the rear,and the kick strenght when i put on D
has nothing to do with it,sound is similar.-
Here's what i recorded this morning :
THANKS !
Racer
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 252
Likes: 0
From: Corpus Christi TX
I had a U-joint go in my '89 once. When I took it out, one of the end caps was cracked and half the needle bearings were ground into dust. I don't recall it making a clicking sound like that, but it did make a substantial clunk that could be heard and felt when taking off from a standstill, or rapidly changing speed (Mine's a 6spd car). I'm sure someone else will have a little better knowledge than me on this, just thought I'd throw what I've seen out there in case it helps.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 8,448
Likes: 27
From: Valparaiso
but the driveshaft is not disconnected,what's the torque brace you say ?
thanks
if its U-joints ...good news !
If its another major overhaul ...damn here i go again on my own ...the only road i ever knowwww
Anyway i will get Lakewood Suspension 23014 Performance U-Joints
the squeek you hear near the end was a friend's '78 Nova takin' his power steering to the limit
thanks
if its U-joints ...good news !
If its another major overhaul ...damn here i go again on my own ...the only road i ever knowwww
Anyway i will get Lakewood Suspension 23014 Performance U-Joints
the squeek you hear near the end was a friend's '78 Nova takin' his power steering to the limit
Last edited by Calderone; Nov 29, 2008 at 09:23 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 795
Likes: 0
From: St. Louis Mo
It's hard to explain what I'm trying to visualize and tell you 
..best thing to do is just jack the car up a little..chock the tires..put it in neutral and reach under and rotate the shaft with your hand,you may have spit a cap out and it's banging on either the hole the cap came out of on the shaft..or the one on the yoke.
..best thing to do is just jack the car up a little..chock the tires..put it in neutral and reach under and rotate the shaft with your hand,you may have spit a cap out and it's banging on either the hole the cap came out of on the shaft..or the one on the yoke.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 8,448
Likes: 27
From: Valparaiso
It's hard to explain what I'm trying to visualize and tell you ..best thing to do is just jack the car up a little..chock the tires..put it in neutral and reach under and rotate the shaft with your hand,you may have spit a cap out and it's banging on either the hole the cap came out of on the shaft..or the one on the yoke.
..best thing to do is just jack the car up a little..chock the tires..put it in neutral and reach under and rotate the shaft with your hand,you may have spit a cap out and it's banging on either the hole the cap came out of on the shaft..or the one on the yoke.I hope is that!
thanks !
C
PS : Are both U-joints identical ?
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Michael S. Palmer
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,398
Likes: 2,743
I don't know that the Lakewood joints are a "requirement"! As long as you buy a quality "Spicer" solid joint with no fitting you'll be fine. A Spicer solid 5-785X should do well. I don't know the price of the Lakewood's but the Spicer should be substantially less than $20 each. The 5-785X is intended for a "steel" shaft but the 5-786X intended for the aluminum yokes is harder to find and "most" don't have problems with the 5-785X that's implied when using it in the aluminum yokes. I've always thought the 5-786X was/is done primarily for the OE for materials compliance. Fact?
Max G’s
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,751
Likes: 79
From: Monroe OH
NCM Sinkhole Donor
UJoint
Ujoints on toque tube (shaft connecting transmission to rear axle) are the same size. The half shaft ujoints are a little smaller. Also, if you reinstalled that ujoint cap by hand and didn't tighten your strap or reinstall lock ring, that could definately be your problem.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,398
Likes: 2,743
A wise move here is have the joints installed and the shaft balanced by a drive-line shop in your area. Look in the yellow pages "truck repairs" or make a couple phone calls. If you're hell bent on the install yourself it's certainly not tough but you need to pay attention to detail. You need to make sure you keep the slip-yoke indexed to the drive-shaft the way it is presently. You can normally avoid the balance if it's done this way and install it back in the car in the same location as you remove it. It's wise to mark everything to avoid "error"!
*If the shaft itself is "beat-up" just have the the install and balance done "period"! You need to check the pinion flange closely also. Just buy new hardware and be done with it. The shop that could do the balance would be the best "source" for the 5-786X joints if you really want the "real deal"! I'd say the professional build & balance is "money well spent"!!
*If the shaft itself is "beat-up" just have the the install and balance done "period"! You need to check the pinion flange closely also. Just buy new hardware and be done with it. The shop that could do the balance would be the best "source" for the 5-786X joints if you really want the "real deal"! I'd say the professional build & balance is "money well spent"!!
Last edited by WVZR-1; Nov 29, 2008 at 10:20 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 795
Likes: 0
From: St. Louis Mo
They should have spring clips like this
http://www.partsamerica.com/product_...mb_20617bf.gif
if you didnt put the clips in it was just a matter of time before you threw the cap off
http://www.partsamerica.com/product_...mb_20617bf.gif
if you didnt put the clips in it was just a matter of time before you threw the cap off
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,398
Likes: 2,743
Ujoints on toque tube (shaft connecting transmission to rear axle) are the same size. The half shaft ujoints are a little smaller. Also, if you reinstalled that ujoint cap by hand and didn't tighten your strap or reinstall lock ring, that could definately be your problem.
1310 = 3.219 width/1.062 caps
1350 = 3.625 width/1.188 caps
ohhhh we didnt mark it the first time we took it off
im lost
im lost
Last edited by WVZR-1; Nov 29, 2008 at 10:39 PM.