VATS question
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 681
Likes: 2
From: Newton (Wichita Area) Kansas
VATS question
Sorry for the long post!
I've gone thru the archives looking for VATS info. One thing I haven't been able to decipher is what happens when VATS quits working--I know the engine won't crank over but does it give any indication that the VATS system specifically isn't working? Does the "Security" light blink or what?
My car won't crank at all. It did this suddenly. Drove the car into my garage to bleed the clutch. After I was done it wouldn't crank. It's never had this problem before. I suspected the clutch pedal switch but it doesn't appear that it's the problem. I checked the connection and even bypassed it and still the car won't crank.
Volts are normal. It appears that the signal is not reaching the starter solenoid; volts don't drop when the key is in the Start position. I know the VATS system has a relay in the starting circuit but I don't know where it's mounted. The Start signal is coming from the ignition switch but I haven't traced any further than that.
Does this sound like a clear case of VATS? Any advice would be appreciated.
I've gone thru the archives looking for VATS info. One thing I haven't been able to decipher is what happens when VATS quits working--I know the engine won't crank over but does it give any indication that the VATS system specifically isn't working? Does the "Security" light blink or what?
My car won't crank at all. It did this suddenly. Drove the car into my garage to bleed the clutch. After I was done it wouldn't crank. It's never had this problem before. I suspected the clutch pedal switch but it doesn't appear that it's the problem. I checked the connection and even bypassed it and still the car won't crank.
Volts are normal. It appears that the signal is not reaching the starter solenoid; volts don't drop when the key is in the Start position. I know the VATS system has a relay in the starting circuit but I don't know where it's mounted. The Start signal is coming from the ignition switch but I haven't traced any further than that.
Does this sound like a clear case of VATS? Any advice would be appreciated.
Racer
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 440
Likes: 0
From: Corvallis OR
Re: VATS question (jmr302)
I haven't been able to determine if it is indeed that the VATS is the problem, or what causes it, but every once in a while the car won't start for no apparent reason. I have been able to fix it by disconnecting the battery for a minute or so to reset the computer. Then it wont happen for another month or so.
Jim-K
Jim-K
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 54,124
Likes: 30
From: Cincinnati, Oh USA
Re: VATS question (Jim-K)
VATS measures the resistance of the pellet in your ign key and if it is within a few percent, then it will close the start enable relay and allow the starter motor to crank. Also in series with the start enable relay contacts is the clutch safety switch (xmsn selector switch if auto). Jump the clutch switch and try again. Try your spare ign key which has pellet contacts that aren't worn like your everyday key. The ign sw contacts that make with the pellet come down the steering column and into a 2 pin plug under the carpet (in my 87). Unplug the 2 pin connector and insert key and measure the resistance at the connector on the wires from the steering column. The resistance should be the same as the pellet. If over 10k ohms, you need a new ignition switch which has new pellet contacts. Your ignition switch may also be the cause of a no crank condition.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 681
Likes: 2
From: Newton (Wichita Area) Kansas
Re: VATS question (jfb)
I was hoping you'd chime in, jfb. I've read all your old posts on VATS so I'm up to speed on what it does. The key I'm using is brand new and has worked perfectly in the past. The old key pellet got damaged. I've already bypassed the clutch safety switch and it didn't help. I think I need to look at the VATS more closesly. Could be other wiring problems with this car too. The gage cluster lighting ground just went bad. The heater blower motor only works intermittently. There are probably multiple problems with the dash wiring in this thing.
Is the VATS wire in the steering column the one with the strange blade-type connector? The other side of the wiring harness (with the female connector) has many multi-colored wires coming out of it.
Is the VATS wire in the steering column the one with the strange blade-type connector? The other side of the wiring harness (with the female connector) has many multi-colored wires coming out of it.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 54,124
Likes: 30
From: Cincinnati, Oh USA
Re: VATS question (jmr302)
I'm not sure which wires/connector you are describing, but your pellet wires should come out of the steering column at the base and under the carpet and it is a 2 pin connector. Get an ohmeter, preferably a digital one and measure the pins on the wire from the steering column after unplugging it and inserting your ign key. The resistance should be the same as the pellet measures. Until you can get the ign sw replaced, you can clip a fixed resistor the same value as your pellet onto the wires going to the right side of the car (wires go to VATS module) and you should be able to start the car. Don't due this permanently because a thief can smash your column and jump the ignition and the car is his/its. VATS stops a lot of thefts.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,979
Likes: 0
From: Portage Mi
Re: VATS question (jmr302)
On my '89, the start enable relay is inside the dash, above the radio. There are several relays in there together. The VATS module is located behind the "bread box"--it's a real pain to get to.
