Let's talk cooling system...
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,171
Likes: 1
From: Warwick RI
Let's talk cooling system...
Alright, as some of you know I added the Taurus fan and now I can keep my temp under 200 with no problem. The issue i have is the fan must run all the time so I am thinking about going to a big block (extra cores) radiator.
What are the ramifications of removing the coolant/pressure tank? Is there an issue because the fill neck will end up lower?
I wouldn't mind pulling that tank out to clean up that area a bit and the thicker radiator will hold more coolant so I will not be losing capacity.
Thoughts? Ideas?
PS - I decided to tone this car down and make it a driver for next year. That is why I am working on getting the cooling system worry-free
What are the ramifications of removing the coolant/pressure tank? Is there an issue because the fill neck will end up lower?
I wouldn't mind pulling that tank out to clean up that area a bit and the thicker radiator will hold more coolant so I will not be losing capacity.
Thoughts? Ideas?
PS - I decided to tone this car down and make it a driver for next year. That is why I am working on getting the cooling system worry-free
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 5,146
Likes: 3
From: The Motor City
I don't see any problem w/having a rad. w/cap like the earlier models/old school. The reservoir "loops" to heater core, so by eliminating it you will run the hoses direct to the heater direct to the w.pump and now to both be 5/8"hose.
Last edited by mseven; Dec 9, 2008 at 08:03 AM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,171
Likes: 1
From: Warwick RI
I thought it would work, I just needed someone that knows the theory behind the "tank" to confirm it.
You can get alluminum universal 3" thick for around $159 that will fit in the shroud so I will go with one of those.
Last edited by Iroc57; Dec 9, 2008 at 08:14 AM. Reason: spelling...duh
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 5,146
Likes: 3
From: The Motor City
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,171
Likes: 1
From: Warwick RI
Summit sells them
2 core but 1" cores so it is advertised as better cooling
If I remember correctly the old 4 core that we used had 1/2" cores so it does make sense. They relied on capacity rather than air flow to keep the big engines cool. For $209 I can get the tranny cooler lines but I use an external cooler anyhow.
2 core but 1" cores so it is advertised as better cooling
If I remember correctly the old 4 core that we used had 1/2" cores so it does make sense. They relied on capacity rather than air flow to keep the big engines cool. For $209 I can get the tranny cooler lines but I use an external cooler anyhow.
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Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,171
Likes: 1
From: Warwick RI
Pro
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 576
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I'm not sure how you could ever get all the air out of the cooling system any other way. The air would work it's way to the highest point. Is there any reason you couldn't just plug the overflow on the new radiator? Use the stock fill point?
Or, you could get the fill neck lopped off and welded up.
Or, you could get the fill neck lopped off and welded up.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,171
Likes: 1
From: Warwick RI
I'm not sure how you could ever get all the air out of the cooling system any other way. The air would work it's way to the highest point. Is there any reason you couldn't just plug the overflow on the new radiator? Use the stock fill point?
Or, you could get the fill neck lopped off and welded up.
Or, you could get the fill neck lopped off and welded up.
No reason, just seeing if anyone had run without the tank with no issues. I wouldn't mind losing the tank so that I can clean that corner up a bit.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,376
Likes: 111
From: Cherokee National Forest TN
Are the heater core inlet & outlet the highest points in the system? If so a manual bleed valve could be install in one of the heater hoses at the firewall to expell trapped air in the system.
One of my Porsche's had a fitting on top of thermostat housing to bleed out the trapped air.
One of my Porsche's had a fitting on top of thermostat housing to bleed out the trapped air.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 5,146
Likes: 3
From: The Motor City
A stock rad. will not sit lower than or below the thermostat housing. I am in the middle of doing this and and went over this w/Tom. The rad. I am having made has the cap at the top of the tank and slightly raised above the tank (to also clear the shroud). There should not be an issue w/this method, as the cap will be above the highest point of the rad./system (and still retaining an overflow).
One poster mentioned the F body method of using a filler neck in the top hose, which I have seen on others that appears to work (w/stainless tubing and small couplers). I also think Churchkey's method would be fine to eliminate trapped air, but the heater doesn't appear to be higher than the top of the rad. tanks (would be a cleaner look though if needed).
My reasons are diet and working room. I am getting rid of everything else on that side, inc. ac box on firewall, w.w.fluid res. all additional plumbing (AC. pump, cond. brackets, am using a std. rotation w.p.etc., is already done). sorry for the long post
One poster mentioned the F body method of using a filler neck in the top hose, which I have seen on others that appears to work (w/stainless tubing and small couplers). I also think Churchkey's method would be fine to eliminate trapped air, but the heater doesn't appear to be higher than the top of the rad. tanks (would be a cleaner look though if needed).
My reasons are diet and working room. I am getting rid of everything else on that side, inc. ac box on firewall, w.w.fluid res. all additional plumbing (AC. pump, cond. brackets, am using a std. rotation w.p.etc., is already done). sorry for the long post
Last edited by mseven; Dec 9, 2008 at 01:34 PM.