My fun evening,

So my car was finally running after about a month of being down, turned out my multispark box was just disconnected at a location I didnt notice before.

But!~ Since I have been driving it again the car wont accelerate over 3g, and even under it if you give even quarter + throttle it takes a **** and wont rev.

It was cold here so I had been driving it anyways, tonight I got off work and went to start my car and it started then died, then clicked when I tried again. A set of jumper cables started the car but now the car runs like complete crap. I was worried and barely made it home, at highway speeds in 6th it ran fine once I got it to the rpm I wanted, but getting there was awesome fun.

When stopping and letting the rpms dropped they fell so far and hard the car almost died every time. Then re-accelerating was still nerve racking and difficult.

In the past I had intermittent check engine codes that would go away a minute or two down the road or never appeared at all. This time it was on all the way home and never turned off.


Car:
1993 Ruby
6 speed
z07 Package
Supercharger

Recently Replaced:
Optispark
Plugs
Wired

(I have also recently taken the fuel pump out thinking it was bad and it is fine as well, with new fuel relays)

 

Oh yeah I just told a story. There was a question too...


Where do I start? And is there a simple way to pull the codes without a tool?

 

http://www.corvettebuyers.com/c4vettes/codes.htm

 

Thanks for the start, Im going to struggle to get it to my garage accross town in the morning and start messing...

 

Sometimes when a car wont rev the cats are stopped up. Did you actually check FP. Lack of fuel is a very common cause.

 

I posted this earlier and think I hit my back button instead of posting. If you have adjusted the TB you need to get the minimum air rate set to where it needs to be first. There is a procedure for this, if you need it let me know. It's not difficult.

If you have a tuned chip in it then the chips should have the appropriate idle settings in it to compensate the idle settings. As for rev loss, the adjusted TB could cause this I guess from the TPS voltage being off. As stated before it needs to be at .5 at minimum throttle and sweep smoothly. Have you tested your TPS with a scope or voltmeter to make sure it does not have a dead spot in it?

 

A few questions to help out:

How long have you had the supercharger?

What fuel pump are you using, and what size injectors?

What heat range are your spark plugs?

 

Who manufactured the recently replaced Optispark?

 

I have not tested or touched anything yet, I hope to today. But I do not have a scope or voltmeter here I will have to take this thing to my dads garage.

OEM Replacement

 

Also, is it worth it just to replace things if I have the money like TPS just to make sure that isnt the deal.

 

If you have the money to throw around, new parts are never a bad idea! or I could just send you my paypal address

 

Haha na I didnt mean that, Im kinda getting at if there are parts under 100 bucks I can just start changing those out for new ones.

 

This experience is so crazy for me simply because I am a sport bike rider and my last vehicle to work on was a 78 silverado hot rod, but I can play carburetor all day long no problem. The only electronics on that thing turned the headlights on haha.

 

Well it's really not that hard. They still operate in the same principal as far as an internal combustion engine. It just goes about managing it in a different way.

Can you remember all the things you involved when looking for the original problem? I mean what else was changed in your search? Start with getting things back to the basics. Like I said before you really need a decent scan tool of some kind. You can pick them up for around $100 these days and it may be your better investment. Just be sure you get one that will give live data and is OBDI compatible.


This resets the IAC, but not the minimum air rate:

Testing and Inspection

Reset IAC Valve Position:

1. Depress the accelerator pedal slightly.
2. Start and run the engine for five seconds.
3. Turn the ignition OFF for ten seconds.
4. Restart the engine and check for proper idle operation.

The first thing I would do with it is to reset your minimum air rate to something acceptable. That is that the IAC has a good amount of travel in both directions and your TPS is within range.

 

First thing I would do is pull the codes and follow the FSM to diagnose the issue.Don't toss money at it sometimes new parts do not work and you will add to your problem. One step at a time.......

 

Ok I havent done anything yet, I just walked outside and turned the car on and it was doing the lack or arps thing it had been doing for weeks but not the struggling to run thing that was going on last night. What gives?

 

Oh and also no check engine light this morning.

 

Doesn't matter you still have stored codes if it was on.

 

It's a good point, but putting the minimum air rate where it needs to be is just as important

 

Regarding to this I have something that may help. If I steady push the throttle and hold it all the way down the car starts in a couple turns (most of the time) instead of 10-20 if I was not even touching the throttle.