Will a ZZ4 shortblock work??
Last edited by WW7; Jan 4, 2009 at 03:26 PM.
Last edited by WW7; Jan 4, 2009 at 03:32 PM.
Are you going to do all the work yourself? If you engine has a few miles on it, consider new timing chain and gears. Might freshen up the heads and have valve job (again if you have a few miles on the engine)....or go with a good set of aftermarket heads.
John
ZZ4 is crate motor version of L98 roller cam engine (w/4 bolt mains).
Need Vette water pump and balancer.
If all you are doing is swapping the block then no tune needed
As a note I ran the ZZ4 cam in my '89 without a tune and it ran fine.
Ran 'better" with minor tune but than was mainly adjustments to spark timing because '89 has very aggressive spark advance
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some things to consider are as follows.
The OP's '89 L98 has dished pistons. The ZZ4 he is considering has
flattop pistons with four valve reliefs.
10159436 - ZZ4/LT1 High Performance Piston (Standard)

10.25:1 in '90 as a consequence of a change from dished
to flattop pistons. The flattop pistons are reportedly lighter.
This increase in static compression was accompanied by
a more modest camshaft profile (which may have had the
effect of compensating by reducing dynamic compression.)
has been appropriately balanced. The OP's existing flywheel/flexplate
may or may not be suitable - depending on whether the bob weight
for the '89 was the same as for the ZZ4. A new ZZ4 FW/FP will be
factory balanced to be within an OEM tolerance. This may be
acceptable.
If the OP proceeds with the purchase and considers balancing the
engine, before allowing work to begin he should get assurances
from the shop owner that the hypereutectic pistons can be safely
removed from the rods without damage (and a written statement
about what the shop will do to make things right if a piston is
cracked during removal.)
.
to flattop pistons. This increase in static compression was accompanied by a more modest camshaft profile (which may have had the effect of compensating by reducing dynamic compression.)
The 1-pc rear mainseal ZZ4 crank requires a flywheel/flexplate that
has been appropriately balanced. The OP's existing flywheel/flexplate
may or may not be suitable .
GM only list one 153 tooth flexplate (#14088765 ) for 1 pce seal cranks
"Technical Notes:
Flexplate is for 1986 and up. Engines before 1986 us a two-piece rear seal. The bolt circle on pre-1986 crankshafts is 3.58” in diameter.
For 1986 and later crankshafts the bolt circle is 3.00”.
If your engine has a crankshaft with a one-piece rear seal, you must use a flywheel (or flexplate) with a 3.00” bolt pattern and a counterweighted flywheel for proper engine balance."
Last edited by WW7; Jan 4, 2009 at 08:59 PM.
There are better cam BUT the factory got 355Hp with a carb;
I calc mine was 315Hp ; big tubes / headers / ported plenum / siamised base on a 100K '89 engine.
Last edited by rodj; Jan 31, 2009 at 11:46 PM.
As far as HP, I was dyno'd at 284 RWHP with stock bottom end (cam/pistons) for the 85 L98 with AFR 180 heads, 1.5 & 1.6 RR, SuperRam intake, runners & plenum and a little exhaust work (no headers). The 284 RWHP is close to 350 at the crank. That was with 320,000 miles on the engine. I haven't dyno'd the ZZ4 combination yet to know what I ended up with.
If you go with RR with the cam with a higher lift, and headers you could be close to your 300 HP. A good set of aftermarket heads would push you over your goal. Your restriction may be the intake assembly even with the porting.












