So we were finally able to let the beast warm up to test everything out today but I have some concerns with the temperatures it was reaching. I let it warm up, reving it below 2k every now and them for probably 5-10 minutes. The coolant was reaching about 220 or so when the fan was engaging and at idle. the coolant was hovering around 228 and oil at 205 when it was warmed up (the oil was still rising, slowly though). I reved it to about 3k a few times consecutively and I noticed the coolant jump to about 240 then jump back down. Then I reved to 4k a few times and it went from 228 to 230, to 240 then 250 all in about seven seconds, thats when I shut it down before it could get any higher.

Is it normal for the engine to get extremely hot after some short reves at idle? I was thinking mabey something may have clogged the t-stat or something because there is alot of crap still coming out of the radiator flushes i.e. chunks of rust. (car sat outside for seven years with part of the system exposed) Also, we are running L98 heads and some sort of aftermarket cam so that might have something to do with it. And we were running straight tap water in the rad. Im already going to use water wetter after we get it all cleaned out and everything but do you guys have any imput on this?

Thanks!

 

250 is a tad warm but nothing to get too alarmed at. It sounds normal. BTW, 250 is nowhere close to extremely hot for these cars.

 

Yr of car would be very helpful. Also the oil temp usually runs 15 to 30 deg warmer than the coolant. If as you say the car has been sitting for 7yrs then yes a very good flushing is in order and replace the thermostat. Better to be safe than sorry.
My $.02.

Mike

 

What's your criteria for extremely hot?

Could have been an air pocket.

 

~255 the "check engine" light comes on.

You have a problem.
Make sure both fans are coming on.
Check the coolant level
Make sure it was 'burped' properly.

 

All of the above,and use a 50/50 mix of coolant.Not sure of your year,and options,may only have one fan.

 

You know, I have no idea WTF I was thinking when I wrote that. That is pretty damned warm. That might concern me too.

To the OP: Sorry for the misinformation.

 

The coupling between my water pump and the water pump drive shaft kept spinning out. This had occured 3 times in 5 years. I ended up putting an electric water pump on the car because I was tired of pulling the pump everytime it happened.

 

eremoy,

Was the radiator cap off for more than 1-2 minutes during this 'test' (preventing the much needed pressure from builiding-up)?

If so, it prevented pressure from building and moving air pockets around, preventing air pockets from expanding and preventing 'spot boiling'.

If so, suggest redoing the 'test' -- cap off, start, top off, cap on (within 1-2 minutes max).

 

Normal with just Tap Water in the system. You need coolant 50/50 to maintain the right temperatures.

 

If all else fails pull rad maybe its full of debris in the front it is pretty common.

 

Wrong. Pure water cools better than 50/50 mix.

 

Figure out the problem then run with antifreezeYour in Jersey you should have antifreeze in it.

 

As far as burping goes. I found the best way to "burp" the car is to jack up the front end so the top of the radiator is the highest part of the system and fill her up. Once filled you start the car and watch the level drop. As long as the pump is working it should cycle the entire system with the cap off. Once the temp starts to register put the cap back on and let the system pressurize.

This is true but water's boiling point is quite a bit lower so although it cools more efficiently, it will boil and cause air pockets all over the coiling system. Thus is becomes less efficeint and can cause hot spots; mainly in the heads. Leading to cracked heads and blow gaskets. Not to mention the mineral impurities in "tap" water are more prone to cause electrolitic effects. Meaning with the heat and electrical charge going across the block, it will create rust faster. Hense why they tell you to use distilled, not tap.

 

Water boils at 268 with a 16 LB cap. I wasn't advocating running straight water. Just correcting misinformation.

 

It is an 84, sorry. I think it was an air pocket. I have been filling, running, and draining water through the system about four times now and everytime it does the same thing. It warms up to like 250 then back down to 228 or so and stays there, even after I restart it.

 

Actually it is 260degrees just correcting misinformation.

http://www.jegs.com/InstallationInst.../555-52019.pdf


the radiator cap - Most people overlook the importance of a good radiator cap. The boiling point of water is 212 degrees Fahrenheit. You get three (3) degrees more boiling point for every one (1) pound of pressure that a radiator cap can hold. Most radiator caps will hold 16 pounds of pressure, therefore, with a good radiator cap, you will get 48 additional degrees Fahrenheit (3 x 16 = 48) before your car will overheat. (Remember, water boils at 212 degrees and allowing the additional 48 degrees with a good radiator cap, gives you a total of 260 degrees before your engine overheats.) Have your radiator cap tested to ensure it holds the stated pressure. Even if it is new, you have no guarantee it works properly. Remove your radiator cap and inspect the pressure spring and rubber grommet. The spring should move freely and the rubber grommet should be the same size as the base behind the grommet, and not be torn or expanded. With time, the rubber grommet will tend to expand and stretch. When this happens, the cap will not contain the radiator pressure and the boiling point of the anti-freeze/water mixture will decrease and can allow the system to boil over.