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Are there any aftermarket water pumps (other then electric)?
I'm about to change out the Opti in my 96 LT4 and figured I would change the water pump while I'm there. My understanding is that the mechanical pump flows better at higher rpms. I live in the heat of Texas and I don't drag race so I don't think an electric pump is best for me. Is there an upgrade to the oem pump or should I just order the stock deal.
I'll be changing plug wires as well - any suggestions?
Thanks!
Dave
Last edited by psd_bullitt; Jan 12, 2009 at 05:25 PM.
Just get a new pump from thepartsladi on ebay - comes with thermostat already installed. Also make sure to install a new o-ring on the engine side of the drive (the water pump will come with one on the pump side).
As for wires, I bought the spendy OEM replacement LT4 set, and wasn't particularly happy with them. They're not the exact same length as the originals, and aren't numbered, either. If I had it to do over again, I'd probably get MSD wires.
whats wrong with a remanufactured water pump? i see them on eBay with new seals and Hi performance bearing installed and most of them are GM OEM water pumps to begin with. there's not a lot in a water pump that can go wrong once you've replaced the bearings and seals and these pumps sell for less than $80 delivered!
Are there any aftermarket water pumps (other then electric)?
I'm about to change out the Opti in my 96 LT4 and figured I would change the water pump while I'm there. My understanding is that the mechanical pump flows better at higher rpms. I live in the heat of Texas and I don't drag race so I don't think an electric pump is best for me. Is there an upgrade to the oem pump or should I just order the stock deal.
I'll be changing plug wires as well - any suggestions?
Thanks!
Dave
If you do not drag race what do you do???
Yes a mechanical pump flows MORE gpm at higher rpms, but it also flows less gpm at lower rpms!
An electric water pump flows the same at ALL rpms!!!!
So an electric WP can really help keep the car cooler when you are stuck in traffic at an idle, or between runs at the track. It consumes the same amount of horsepower at all rpm, so it frees up a few ponies at higher rpms..
Nothing wrong with either, just make sure you understand all the pros & cons before you choose electric or mechanical.......
As for wires, I bought the spendy OEM replacement LT4 set, and wasn't particularly happy with them. They're not the exact same length as the originals, and aren't numbered, either. If I had it to do over again, I'd probably get MSD wires.
I got the LT1 wires from the Chevy dealer, not as spendy as the red LT4 wires, but had the same complaints, not numbered and not the same lengths. They certainly work, but I wouldn't have paid the OEM price for what are essentially aftermarket wires if I had it to do over.
Yes a mechanical pump flows MORE gpm at higher rpms, but it also flows less gpm at lower rpms!
An electric water pump flows the same at ALL rpms!!!!
So an electric WP can really help keep the car cooler when you are stuck in traffic at an idle, or between runs at the track. It consumes the same amount of horsepower at all rpm, so it frees up a few ponies at higher rpms..
Nothing wrong with either, just make sure you understand all the pros & cons before you choose electric or mechanical.......
What I meant was that my understanding is that a Mechanical pump flows more than an Electric pump at higher rpms. I understand that the electric pump's flow is essentially constant at all rpms and the Mechanical pump's flow is a function of the pulley rpms. Does anyone have a graph showing the comparison of the two flow rates over the entire rpm range????
The LT4 is my daily driver again and I only used this car for one HPDE weekend last year. Since I've sold the Z06 I might use the LT4 on the track more in the future - I have not had any reasonable offers on the LT4 so it looks like I might be keeping it around which is very except my wife refers to it as my mistress and wants me to sell it to help relieve cash flow of our daughters college tuition.
Anyway, I can see the benefit of the electric pump between track sessions so you can keep the water flowing without having to keep the engine running. But.... wouldn't the car be cooler coming of the track with the mechanical pump since it flows better during the extended high rpm sessions???
I've never had an overheating problem in daily driving even in the worst of stop n go traffic in Dallas heat.
It looks like Summit and Ecklers have prices that are just as good as thepartsladi on ebay. I get a discount with Ecklers through my membership with the Grand Sport Registry so I'll probably go that route.
I originally ordered a rebuilt water pump from Advance Auto Parts. When I got ready to put it on, I noticed some big differences between it and the original. It was not machined on the gasket surfaces like the original and it had a no-name brand bearing in it (probably Chinese), whereas the original had a *** bearing in it. I took it back and ordered a GM Performance Parts pump from Summit Racing. It was exactly like the original. Only around $40 more, you get what you pay for.
So, GM performance, AC Delco or Aldephi replacement for the H2O pump. I need to order tomorrow and the GM is performance is $70 more than the AC delco Thoughts?
I've noticed a lot more of the AC Delco stuff coming out of Mexico. I would get the GM Performance Parts pump. You gotta figure that they're saving money somewhere: materials, labor, etc.
The thermostat should control the flow, not the speed of the pump. The water doesn't do anything but whirl around in a circle when the thermostat is closed, and will flow only what can physically fit through the thermostat when it's open. Any more speed added to the pump will only recirculate the remaining water in the pump, pop heater cores & hoses, or cause cavitation if it is turned fast enough.
I cavitated some water pumps in a race car and the blades looked like they had been hit by a shotgun.
The water has to remain in the block long enough to absorb the heat from the heads and block and then remain in the radiator long enough to transfer the heat out to the air. If the water flows too fast (too Cold or removed thermostat) it will move so quickly it doesn't have any time to transfer the heat. The engine will run cold until the ambient air temp. is high enough, and then the temp starts to run away hot, because it's moving too fast through the radiator to cool off. I love electric pumps because they're steady flowing no mater what is going on with engine rpm. If it is a high quality electric pump with enough capacity, it will work fine. Also, it will fix a water leak on one side of the pump and a potential oil leak where the old cam drive shaft can be removed from the engine side! A double plus!
The thermostat should control the flow, not the speed of the pump. The water doesn't do anything but whirl around in a circle when the thermostat is closed, and will flow only what can physically fit through the thermostat when it's open. Any more speed added to the pump will only recirculate the remaining water in the pump, pop heater cores & hoses, or cause cavitation if it is turned fast enough.
I cavitated some water pumps in a race car and the blades looked like they had been hit by a shotgun.
The water has to remain in the block long enough to absorb the heat from the heads and block and then remain in the radiator long enough to transfer the heat out to the air. If the water flows too fast (too Cold or removed thermostat) it will move so quickly it doesn't have any time to transfer the heat. The engine will run cold until the ambient air temp. is high enough, and then the temp starts to run away hot, because it's moving too fast through the radiator to cool off. I love electric pumps because they're steady flowing no mater what is going on with engine rpm. If it is a high quality electric pump with enough capacity, it will work fine. Also, it will fix a water leak on one side of the pump and a potential oil leak where the old cam drive shaft can be removed from the engine side! A double plus!
Right on the money. I cruised at 7000 rpms on the freeway with a 55gpm mezzier and my coolant temps were rock solid. my oil temps however.....