Hey Scorp!
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 83,383
Likes: 87
From: Boston, MA
I only did it for the U-Joints. It's on the page, left column, all the way down.
http://personal.tmlp.com/scorp/vette...nts/index.html
http://personal.tmlp.com/scorp/vette...nts/index.html
Original Founding Member!
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 9,037
Likes: 88
From: Granby, MA
Cruise-In 1, 3, 9. 10 & 11 Veteran
Re: (scorp508)
________________________________________ ________
Didn't you do a photo layout on R&R rear hubs
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you gotta be kidding....scorp don't have pictures on this job?
OMG...the worlds coming to an end.....lol :crazy:
you had a picture of a lemon at one time.....but no rear hubs...lol
just keepin on your toes brian...lol
later jeff
Didn't you do a photo layout on R&R rear hubs
________________________________________ ________
you gotta be kidding....scorp don't have pictures on this job?
OMG...the worlds coming to an end.....lol :crazy:
you had a picture of a lemon at one time.....but no rear hubs...lol
just keepin on your toes brian...lol
later jeff
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 83,383
Likes: 87
From: Boston, MA
you gotta be kidding....scorp don't have pictures on this job?
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 83,383
Likes: 87
From: Boston, MA
The hub takes about 45 mins start to finish. It really is simple. You will want both rear tires on jackstands so that you can rotate them to get to the three T-55 torx bolts easier.
1. Get the rear up.
2. Remove tire
3. Remove brake caliper (13mm bolts i think)
4. Ziptie caliper out of the way
5. Pull off brake rotor
6. Remove cotter pin in front of spindle nut.
7. Remove spindle nut (36mm)
8. Remove T-55 Torx bolts on back side
9. Pull entire hub/parking brake assembly off.
10. Pop out the hub/bearing.
11. Pop in new one.
12. Reassemble.
1. Get the rear up.
2. Remove tire
3. Remove brake caliper (13mm bolts i think)
4. Ziptie caliper out of the way
5. Pull off brake rotor
6. Remove cotter pin in front of spindle nut.
7. Remove spindle nut (36mm)
8. Remove T-55 Torx bolts on back side
9. Pull entire hub/parking brake assembly off.
10. Pop out the hub/bearing.
11. Pop in new one.
12. Reassemble.
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 14,130
Likes: 7
Cruise-In II Veteran
Re: (4 anyone)
Just wanted to add, if you dont have power tools,get a 24 inch breaker bar to ease removal of stubborn bolts and nuts like the 36MM axle nut.
It also may not be necessary,but its recommended you lightly loosen the wheel lugs,jack up the car,take off the wheel,pop out the center cap on wheel, remove cotter pin and crown from axle nut,
-put the wheel back on,tighten,lower it back onto the ground then loosen the axle nut this way through the center cap hole(not take it off yet),THEN jack the car back up and remove the wheel and proceed with the other stuff.
I was told this way would keep one from damaging something,or keeping the car from falling off the jackstands because you sometimes really have to push or pull that breaker bar really really hard to get the axle nut off,especially if it has some rust on it.
So I did it this way,I had to literally rock the car to get the SOB off with a breaker bar on mine.My impact gun wasnt strong enough to get the nut off.
Took an extra few minutes but felt safer with all 4 wheels were on the ground.Also spray the bolts and nuts with penetrating oil.
The bigger the breaker bar,the easier the bolts come off.
With a strong impact gun,this isnt a problem or needed.
:)
It also may not be necessary,but its recommended you lightly loosen the wheel lugs,jack up the car,take off the wheel,pop out the center cap on wheel, remove cotter pin and crown from axle nut,
-put the wheel back on,tighten,lower it back onto the ground then loosen the axle nut this way through the center cap hole(not take it off yet),THEN jack the car back up and remove the wheel and proceed with the other stuff.
I was told this way would keep one from damaging something,or keeping the car from falling off the jackstands because you sometimes really have to push or pull that breaker bar really really hard to get the axle nut off,especially if it has some rust on it.
So I did it this way,I had to literally rock the car to get the SOB off with a breaker bar on mine.My impact gun wasnt strong enough to get the nut off.
Took an extra few minutes but felt safer with all 4 wheels were on the ground.Also spray the bolts and nuts with penetrating oil.
The bigger the breaker bar,the easier the bolts come off.
With a strong impact gun,this isnt a problem or needed.
:)
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Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 83,383
Likes: 87
From: Boston, MA
I got the nut off with a 24" bar.
I forgot to add that it is only supposed to be FINGER TIGHT when you reinstall it. Tighten up the torx bolts most of the way, finger tighten spindle nut, then torque the torx bolts to 65 ft/lb, then re-finger tighten the spindle nut.
I forgot to add that it is only supposed to be FINGER TIGHT when you reinstall it. Tighten up the torx bolts most of the way, finger tighten spindle nut, then torque the torx bolts to 65 ft/lb, then re-finger tighten the spindle nut.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 13,002
Likes: 4
From: Paint Hill NC
Re: (Barrier)
Thanks. I have the factory shop manual at home, I will look up the spindle nut values and post this evening. Of course I looked in the manual at the hub replacement but wanted the forum input. If I remember correctly, the manual calls for unbolting the spring, I did not think that was really necessary...
Harold
Harold
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 14,130
Likes: 7
Cruise-In II Veteran
Re: (TPFKATK)
Yep, its said to be 166 ft lbs.I also heard that GM later changed the torque values to a different number.I just put mine on tight..I did mark the nut with white paint and scribe before I took it off and when I put it back on real tight,it was in about the same location as before.Never gave me any problems.
(didnt have a torque wrench handy at the time)
Be sure to torque yours down scorp if they were finger tight by mistake.Even though the cotter pin wont let the nut come out anymore,
best to be safe.
:)
(didnt have a torque wrench handy at the time)
Be sure to torque yours down scorp if they were finger tight by mistake.Even though the cotter pin wont let the nut come out anymore,
best to be safe.
:)
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 13,002
Likes: 4
From: Paint Hill NC
Re: (scorp508)
FWIW I got my hubs at Advance. They are Federal Mogul, cost $126 ea plus tax. I am going to do both while I'm at it. The left side is clattering and clicking. The car kinda skips to the right shifting into second under moderate throttle, I am hoping this will calm it down some.