Replacing OEM Opti-Spark Unit with ??????
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Pro
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 537
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From: Conway SC
Replacing OEM Opti-Spark Unit with ??????
I'm going to replace the OEM Optispark unit on my '94 LT1. I use my Corvette for mainly Bracket Racing in the 1/4 mile. I can tell the current Opti-Spark unit is getting ready to fail becasue I can no longer open my garage door with the remote when my Corvette is running (If I turn off the Corvette the remote opens the door just fine) and the last time this happen the Opti-Spark in my Corvette failed after blocking the remote's signal for about a month.
I was thinking of buying a Opti-Spark unit from MSD but my local speed shop owner says he has had three of these units turn out to be faulty from the factory. As far as I am aware that leaves me with choosing either a unit from Accell or one from a manufacturer by the name of Dynaspark. Does anyone have any firsthand knowledge of the Opti-Spark units from either of these companies?
I was thinking of buying a Opti-Spark unit from MSD but my local speed shop owner says he has had three of these units turn out to be faulty from the factory. As far as I am aware that leaves me with choosing either a unit from Accell or one from a manufacturer by the name of Dynaspark. Does anyone have any firsthand knowledge of the Opti-Spark units from either of these companies?
Safety Car
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 3,651
Likes: 10
From: Apple Valley MN
I have an MSD, and haven't had any problems, but I know some others had issues with the rotor coming loose. That may have been on early units. I haven't read much favorable about the Accel unit, but have heard the Dynaspark is good.
Also, here's an option:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-p...ew-in-box.html
Also, here's an option:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-p...ew-in-box.html
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 7,999
Likes: 14
From: Life is just one big track event. Everything before and after is prep and warm-up and cool-down laps
Cruise-In III Veteran
Cruise-In IV Veteran
St. Jude Donor '12
I put a Dynaspark in my car two years ago - no problems at all. I know the company was unreachable for a while, but they seem to be back now.
From feedback here on the forum if I got an MSD I'd pull it apart, locktite the rotor screws, seal it up with the right stuff or equivalent, put it in and not worry about it.
Stock replacements are supposed to be available from thepartslady (sp?) on eBay for a very good price.
Just my $0.02
From feedback here on the forum if I got an MSD I'd pull it apart, locktite the rotor screws, seal it up with the right stuff or equivalent, put it in and not worry about it.
Stock replacements are supposed to be available from thepartslady (sp?) on eBay for a very good price.
Just my $0.02
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 3,215
Likes: 6
From: Tampa Florida
I just installed an MSD unit...you are forced to disassemble it before install so checking the screws is easy. Mine were tight.
After install the engine failed to cleanly rev past 5900 rpm to my 7200 fuel cut. It varied when it cut out...almost like a soft rev limit. This was from mile one of the install.
Installed new OEM Optispark...no other changes. No issues to 7200 rpm. Considering the effort to change out a defective unit...I'm inclined to say put your funds toward two OEM's. The screws were still tight on the MSD unit.
MSD has the unit now...
I was very hopeful at an upgrade to a failure point of the LT engine...not so much anymore.
After install the engine failed to cleanly rev past 5900 rpm to my 7200 fuel cut. It varied when it cut out...almost like a soft rev limit. This was from mile one of the install.
Installed new OEM Optispark...no other changes. No issues to 7200 rpm. Considering the effort to change out a defective unit...I'm inclined to say put your funds toward two OEM's. The screws were still tight on the MSD unit.
MSD has the unit now...
I was very hopeful at an upgrade to a failure point of the LT engine...not so much anymore.
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 18,346
Likes: 1
From: D / FW
A new OEM unit is as good as any of them , and no screw Issues.
OEM designed to last from 165,000 to 240,000 miles.
All of them good for quality signal to 6420 .
Other than price and name/looks not much difference.
Can't see the dang things installed anyway.
Add zap with MSD 6A and Blaster Coil .
You get the comfort of a Rev. limiter too.
OEM designed to last from 165,000 to 240,000 miles.
All of them good for quality signal to 6420 .
Other than price and name/looks not much difference.
Can't see the dang things installed anyway.
Add zap with MSD 6A and Blaster Coil .
You get the comfort of a Rev. limiter too.
Moderator Emeritus
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 46,133
Likes: 111
From: Maryville Tn
CI 5 thru 12 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '09 thru '23
NCM Sinkhole Donor
A new OEM unit is as good as any of them , and no screw Issues.
OEM designed to last from 165,000 to 240,000 miles.
All of them good for quality signal to 6420 .
Other than price and name/looks not much difference.
Can't see the dang things installed anyway.
Add zap with MSD 6A and Blaster Coil .
You get the comfort of a Rev. limiter too.
OEM designed to last from 165,000 to 240,000 miles.
All of them good for quality signal to 6420 .
Other than price and name/looks not much difference.
Can't see the dang things installed anyway.
Add zap with MSD 6A and Blaster Coil .
You get the comfort of a Rev. limiter too.
Stock unit is still twirling on my car with no issues (knock on wood). 
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 3,253
Likes: 2
From: Castro Valley CA
FYI: http://www.dynaspark.net/products/
You should start charging people to open your garage door to diagnose the OPTI; when mine went out, I paid an electrical wizard "pro" $100, needless to say he didn't know chit.
You should start charging people to open your garage door to diagnose the OPTI; when mine went out, I paid an electrical wizard "pro" $100, needless to say he didn't know chit.
