Lt1 rocker stud dia.
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
From: SANDY UT
ok i got the rockers and they are not self alighning!!so ill need guide plates,what brand sells them that will work with stock dia. pushrods? all the guide plates i saw on summit on line say machine work is reqiered! is this so with an lt1 or just with a gen 1 sbc? the stock things are not true guide plates but with them on it seems to me that any guide plate will bolt right up with no work to the head. am i wrong?do you need to machine lt1 heads to fit lets say a comp cams set of plates or will they just bolt on?if i do need to machine is it a clearance issue that can be done with a grinder with the heads on the car? i dont want to pull them for this small of a job. and do i need flat or raised plates?
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
From: SANDY UT
thats what i was thinking but my next questions are 1 with 1.6 rockers i have also read that the guide plates may need to be grinded a bit kind if a longer slot maybe for room for the pushrod at full lift,any one done this or needed it done and do they sell them already fixed for this? #2 is how much clearance do i need between the inner side of the plate and the outside dia. of the pushrod? i think im going to stick with a 5/16 pushrod but get hardend ones, if i do what size plate do i need? most of what i have seen is them listed ti fit a 5/16th pushrod but they give no # or they give a # and dont tell you what pushrod to use. i dont want to bind up the pushrod with too narow of a guide plate.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 12,263
Likes: 86
From: O'Fallon Missouri
I'm running a .622 lift camshaft with 1.6 rockers and these guideplates, no alterations were needed.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...w=1&N=700+150+
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...w=1&N=700+150+
Racer
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 351
Likes: 3
From: amarillo tx
springs
hi, i just talked to loyd elliot last week and he suggested the competition products valve spring number 98215 to replace the stock springs. i went to comp products website and found that they have a spring kit, vsa13, with the springs, locks, retainers and free valve stem seals. the total was $141. i have not replaced them yet but i will start on them tomorrow. not to hard to do but pay attention. i would spend the time to shim them correctly per the spring mfg requirement. see ya
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Corvettes Ever Sold on Bring A Trailer
Brett Foote
10 Things Every Corvette Owner Needs (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
8 Most "Only Corvette Owners Understand" Quirks and Problems
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Reasons the C6 Z06 is Still A Performance Benchmark After 20 Years
Joe Kucinski
How Much Horsepower Every Corvette Engine "LOST" in 1972
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 DOs and DON'Ts for Protecting Your Convertible Top!
Michael S. Palmer
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Race Director
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 14,165
Likes: 9
hi, i just talked to loyd elliot last week and he suggested the competition products valve spring number 98215 to replace the stock springs. i went to comp products website and found that they have a spring kit, vsa13, with the springs, locks, retainers and free valve stem seals. the total was $141. i have not replaced them yet but i will start on them tomorrow. not to hard to do but pay attention. i would spend the time to shim them correctly per the spring mfg requirement. see ya
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,799
Likes: 2
From: Cape Coral FL
I agree, shims are certainly wise, but not ALWAYS required, see your factory springs that aren't shimmed. The trouble we always ran into was that after the heads were milled for bigger springs you would need to shim them lest you didn't mill each spring pocket exactly the same.
Just throwing shims in won't cut it
Race Director
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 14,165
Likes: 9
Well I had hoped that was a given.
For a short time I worked at Total Engine Airflow, back when they were in BG. I did assembly so I did a lot of checking, shimming, etc. It seemed like the heads we had to mill to open up the spring pockets were always a little less consistent than factory. Maybe that's not saying much about the guy who was doing the milling, but that wasn't me!
For a short time I worked at Total Engine Airflow, back when they were in BG. I did assembly so I did a lot of checking, shimming, etc. It seemed like the heads we had to mill to open up the spring pockets were always a little less consistent than factory. Maybe that's not saying much about the guy who was doing the milling, but that wasn't me!
Pro
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 542
Likes: 0
From: middle of Illinois
I am one of the lucky ones, I guess. I didn't change my springs when I put in the 1.6 rockers. But after reading about it, I wish I had. It's soon to be a non-issue though, as I just got my new camshaft in the mail today and tear-down starts as soon as I have time to spend in the garage. And this project includes new valve springs anyway. So I guess I lucked out for the past four years, 60,000 miles, and 100 or so passes down the local drag strips...
Last edited by reoch999; Jan 23, 2009 at 04:18 PM. Reason: misspelled valve
Race Director
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 14,165
Likes: 9
Wow! Makes me wonder if the springs might have been changed before? Have you owned the car from day one? Stock LT1 springs really aren't meant for that kind of punishment.
