Good low end cam??
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 312
Likes: 0
From: Waynesville OH
Good low end cam??
Hey guys i dont really go that fast but i want a cam that will make me go 0-80 real fast. Iv been told to get the cc306 but iv been told it takes alot of the low end away and i like having the power? But if it dosent then i think i want the cc306. Let me know please.
thanks
kevin
thanks
kevin
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 62,141
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From: Athens AL
C7 of the Year - Unmodified Finalist 2021
C4 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
I assume you have a 1990.
A cam change alone is not what you need to do to boost low-end power. You need to improve the breathing of the L98, which will likely raise your RPM power band up a little. If you end up making more power overall by a fair amount, then it could make the car faster off the line, but its not going to boost just the low-end alone.
CC306 is a rather large cam that will want better heads and intake than what you have now, and will want to rev more than the L98s stock intake will allow. I would not recommend it for you.
What you need to do is a little research to form a plan for modifications.
A cam change alone is not what you need to do to boost low-end power. You need to improve the breathing of the L98, which will likely raise your RPM power band up a little. If you end up making more power overall by a fair amount, then it could make the car faster off the line, but its not going to boost just the low-end alone.
CC306 is a rather large cam that will want better heads and intake than what you have now, and will want to rev more than the L98s stock intake will allow. I would not recommend it for you.
What you need to do is a little research to form a plan for modifications.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,672
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From: Hereford AZ
Hey guys i dont really go that fast but i want a cam that will make me go 0-80 real fast. Iv been told to get the cc306 but iv been told it takes alot of the low end away and i like having the power? But if it dosent then i think i want the cc306. Let me know please.
thanks
kevin
thanks
kevin
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 10,641
Likes: 13
From: Slidell Louisiana
What mods are you doing besides the cam?
As an LT1 owner I'll tell you the best low end mod for an LT1 is gears. The LT1 sucks with 2.59s and my 3.45 install (d44 swap) was my best bang for the buck mod. Even with stock converter and engine 3.45s woke the car up.
As for cam shaft, stock is probably the best for low end grunt on stock engine unless your doing some mods. So if you give more information about your goal and plans, folks can give you more relevant information.
So so far
stall converter and y pipe headers, then springs and rockers. All of the cams mentioned so far need the rockers/springs etc. but for mild build and low end power the 306/305/503 are not the best choices.
I suggest LT1 exhaust or aftermarket exhaust vice L98 stocker.
Once again I suggest you decide what you want to do with the car. Then make a plan and remember modifications become addicting and expensive. Once you decide on a budget double or triple it and you probably will be closer to what you end up spending than the initial estimate. (OH BUY the ways are a biyotch)
As an LT1 owner I'll tell you the best low end mod for an LT1 is gears. The LT1 sucks with 2.59s and my 3.45 install (d44 swap) was my best bang for the buck mod. Even with stock converter and engine 3.45s woke the car up.
As for cam shaft, stock is probably the best for low end grunt on stock engine unless your doing some mods. So if you give more information about your goal and plans, folks can give you more relevant information.
So so far
stall converter and y pipe headers, then springs and rockers. All of the cams mentioned so far need the rockers/springs etc. but for mild build and low end power the 306/305/503 are not the best choices.
I suggest LT1 exhaust or aftermarket exhaust vice L98 stocker.
Once again I suggest you decide what you want to do with the car. Then make a plan and remember modifications become addicting and expensive. Once you decide on a budget double or triple it and you probably will be closer to what you end up spending than the initial estimate. (OH BUY the ways are a biyotch)
Last edited by aboatguy; Jan 26, 2009 at 08:18 PM. Reason: check out my sig I have great low end!!!!!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 5,139
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From: H-Town Texas
Running a big cam will reduce your low end and give you more top end, at least this is how I understand it. If you look there are some companies making cams with profiles that will reduce this trade off but I am sure it's a bit pricey. The other thing to think about is if you increase your valve lift your engine will A) need more air faster, and B) will need to get rid of more air faster.
That being said, start with the perrifials first. Mainly exhaust, try to find a stock LT1 or even LT4 set up. The key is to go dual exhaust. Lower rear gears are next. I have 345's and with a stock LT4 it's plenty of low end torque. You could go 3:73 I believe w/o having to go to the Dana 44.
Once yu get all the surrounding parts in place, your new cam will be able to what you intend it to do. The cam swap is intensive and expensive. While your there, you'll want to do an opti swap, or at least a cap and rotor. New lifters, push rods, of course springs. As for the cam, if you're going mild and want to retain low end, you really cant go wrong with the hot cam, this is what it's designed for. The great thing is you can get the hot cam in a kit complete with rockers and springs.
That being said, start with the perrifials first. Mainly exhaust, try to find a stock LT1 or even LT4 set up. The key is to go dual exhaust. Lower rear gears are next. I have 345's and with a stock LT4 it's plenty of low end torque. You could go 3:73 I believe w/o having to go to the Dana 44.
Once yu get all the surrounding parts in place, your new cam will be able to what you intend it to do. The cam swap is intensive and expensive. While your there, you'll want to do an opti swap, or at least a cap and rotor. New lifters, push rods, of course springs. As for the cam, if you're going mild and want to retain low end, you really cant go wrong with the hot cam, this is what it's designed for. The great thing is you can get the hot cam in a kit complete with rockers and springs.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2000
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From: Australia
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 9,715
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From: Kempner Texas
Of the four valve events, IO/IC -EO/EC, the point at which the intake valve closes has the most profound effect.
That said, if excellent to outstanding low end performance is what you're searching for, keep the .050" intake duration below 210 degrees.
If your compression is higher, you can get away with up to 216, but with stock compression, below 210 is the way to go.
Even if you chose a modern cam that has the same intake duration spec as your stock cam, it will provide more grunt because, if correctly chosen, the lobe ramps will be more aggressive and you'll get more valve lift at the same time.
You can improve low end grunt with rear-end gears and a higher stall but if you're looking ONLY at the cam specs keep the duration on the short side.
Just my thoughts,
Jake
That said, if excellent to outstanding low end performance is what you're searching for, keep the .050" intake duration below 210 degrees.
If your compression is higher, you can get away with up to 216, but with stock compression, below 210 is the way to go.
Even if you chose a modern cam that has the same intake duration spec as your stock cam, it will provide more grunt because, if correctly chosen, the lobe ramps will be more aggressive and you'll get more valve lift at the same time.
You can improve low end grunt with rear-end gears and a higher stall but if you're looking ONLY at the cam specs keep the duration on the short side.
Just my thoughts,
Jake
Pro
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 542
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From: middle of Illinois
The 306 can make some pretty nice power in the right engine, but it really wants aftermarket or well-ported stock heads that peak in the 260+ range at .550 on the intake side. It also wants to start around 3500 and spin to around 6800 RPM in a 350, which typically isn't the recommended range for a stock LT1 bottom end. I've heard of people doing it, but for me it's not worth the risk given that I feel like that cam has too much overlap and too much lift for my soon-to-be mild ported heads and 11:1 compression 350. If I was doing a 383 bottom end at the same time, then I'd go for something like the 306, but by that time you probably should get a custom grind.
There are some good cams out there that can make lots of torque down low on an otherwise stock engine. If you want to stick with comp cams, think 501 with 1.6 rockers and springs similar to the LT4. Anything bigger, and you'll need stronger springs.
If you decide you like the more aggressive cam, then do what everyone else does and skip the weak low RPMs by stalling it up to ~3000. (assuming this is an automatic)
There are some good cams out there that can make lots of torque down low on an otherwise stock engine. If you want to stick with comp cams, think 501 with 1.6 rockers and springs similar to the LT4. Anything bigger, and you'll need stronger springs.
If you decide you like the more aggressive cam, then do what everyone else does and skip the weak low RPMs by stalling it up to ~3000. (assuming this is an automatic)
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 312
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From: Waynesville OH
Yes i do like the more agressive cam and i am going with a 3000-3200 stall. Mabey i wont go as big as the 306 but mabey something that i cam use the stock heads and just use some high performance springs?
thanks
kevin
thanks
kevin
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 62,141
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From: Athens AL
C7 of the Year - Unmodified Finalist 2021
C4 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
You need to mention what you've done to the car, either in your first post or in your profile, please go fill it out.
No cam change is going to boost the low-end considerably, the gears and TC take care of that 'feeling' of off-the-line power. 306 will boost your top end and the bottom end of the band will likely feel less powerful, so to accomplish your goal you do not want to go big; you'd be better off going a little bit bigger, but still smaller than hotcam I think. Hotcam does well at both, but if you tighten up your duration to improve torque feel, then you will lose topend power compared to what hotcam or larger cams can do.
Smaller duration cams will allow you to use the other stock components and take advantage of potential, but I would always say to change the springs.
No cam change is going to boost the low-end considerably, the gears and TC take care of that 'feeling' of off-the-line power. 306 will boost your top end and the bottom end of the band will likely feel less powerful, so to accomplish your goal you do not want to go big; you'd be better off going a little bit bigger, but still smaller than hotcam I think. Hotcam does well at both, but if you tighten up your duration to improve torque feel, then you will lose topend power compared to what hotcam or larger cams can do.
Smaller duration cams will allow you to use the other stock components and take advantage of potential, but I would always say to change the springs.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 312
Likes: 0
From: Waynesville OH
Well here are some cams that i might go with. I guess i will have alittle poll to see which top 3 would be the best performer all the way around.
List
cc306 (to big i think)
Hot cam
Lingenfelter 211/219
crane 227
cc503
cc305
cc224/230
cc501
thanks
kevin
List
cc306 (to big i think)
Hot cam
Lingenfelter 211/219
crane 227
cc503
cc305
cc224/230
cc501
thanks
kevin
Last edited by 19Beast90; Jan 27, 2009 at 02:57 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 9,715
Likes: 27
From: Kempner Texas
With that much stall, 224 or 230 would be the cam to go with. For most low end and realy crisp throttle response you'll need 1000 or so less stall and a short duration cam. Going around 6 degrees more in .050 intake duration would be my choice.
I'd go with 2000 or so stall and 6 degrees more in intake cam duration at .050
Generally speaking, every 6 degrees generally translates into a one step change in cam duration. For example: 212 to 218; 218 to 224; 224 to 230; 230 to 236, etc.
Jake
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 4,022
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From: Los Angeles CA
218/224
571/566 with 1.6
114lsa
i'll make a deal with you for...
are you interested in saving some cash and hit your engine use right on the nose? for that tpi setup?
they are saying a lpe 219 is 15 year old technology this cam has high lift and faster ramps
Last edited by slickfx3; Jan 27, 2009 at 03:59 PM.
Pro
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 542
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From: middle of Illinois
I agree. With a 3,000/3,200 stall and a short duration cam you'll end up with a mis-matched combo.
With that much stall, 224 or 230 would be the cam to go with. For most low end and realy crisp throttle response you'll need 1000 or so less stall and a short duration cam. Going around 6 degrees more in .050 intake duration would be my choice.
I'd go with 2000 or so stall and 6 degrees more in intake cam duration at .050
Generally speaking, every 6 degrees generally translates into a one step change in cam duration. For example: 212 to 218; 218 to 224; 224 to 230; 230 to 236, etc.
Jake
With that much stall, 224 or 230 would be the cam to go with. For most low end and realy crisp throttle response you'll need 1000 or so less stall and a short duration cam. Going around 6 degrees more in .050 intake duration would be my choice.
I'd go with 2000 or so stall and 6 degrees more in intake cam duration at .050
Generally speaking, every 6 degrees generally translates into a one step change in cam duration. For example: 212 to 218; 218 to 224; 224 to 230; 230 to 236, etc.
Jake
with several people here. The 503 cam (depending on final flow #s when the heads are done) with a 3000 stall and 3.73:1 gears is the combination I'm working on right now. All my research points to this being a good 3000-6500 RPM combination for a stock LT1 short block. But from your first post, it sounds like our goals are different. My goal is low 12 second (maybe 11.99 on a good day if I'm lucky) 1/4 mile times on a stock bottom end in a car I can drive around town and to and from the strip a hundred miles away. If that's your goal too, then great. But if your goal is to build a low RPM torque monster it doesn't make sense to stall it that high or to use a cam with a high RPM range.
Team Owner
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From: Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction.
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Comp Cams has a free program to help you calculate and decide which grind meets your requirements.
You can download at this link http://www.compcams.com/CAMQUEST/
Good luck
You can download at this link http://www.compcams.com/CAMQUEST/
Good luck