Does anyone know where I can find Test Procedures for a CODE 32. Have already taken off the egr valve and cleaned and vacuum tested it and it seems to be OK. It will only set the code 32 (check eng light on) after I have been driving for approximately 20 minutes to half an hour and remains lit until I restart my car. I tested the egr selinoid and it tests ok. and as close as I can tell the egr passages are clear. Any help would be greatly appreciated or maybe a scan of the test procedures from an actual Mitchell manual or know where I may be able to locate one online.
Thanks
Cruz :confused:

 

tighten your gas cap until it clicks and see if the code comes back, thats how i fixed mine

 

I have tryed the gas cap trick, and a no go. I'm just afraid its the ECM...... :(

 

I think I can program the check out in 1985 cars. I did on my '90 and I never get the code anymore.

I'll double check that I can remove that in the '85 chip and get back with you.

 

this is what is listed in the Haynes shop manual:
Code 32: Exhaust Gas Recirculation circuit.
1. Check the vacuum source and all vacuum lines.
2. Check system electrical connections at the ECM, and EGR valve.
3. Replace the EGR and ECM as necessary.

that's about for me! know nothing other than that.

 

thank you Marcho Polo for checking that out for me :D

 

I've seen many "32" failures due to thermal switch problems.

BTW: Seriously doubt your ECM is to blame.

 

Here's everything on Code 32:





Code 32 means that the EGR diagnostic switch was closed during start-up or that the switch was not detected closed under the following conditions:

Coolant temperature greater than 80°C (176°F).
EGR duty cycle commanded by the ECM is greater than 27%.
TPS less than wide open throttle (WOT), but not at idle.
Codes 21, 22, 33, or 34 not present.
All conditions above must be met for about 4 minutes.

If the switch is detected closed during start-up, or if the switch is detected open when the above conditions are met, the "Check Engine" light will remain "ON" unless the switch changes state.

The EGR vacuum control uses an ECM controlled solenoid valve signal. The ECM will turn the EGR "ON" and "OFF" (Duty Cycle) by grounding CKT 435. The duty cycle is calculated by the ECM based on information from the coolant and mass air flow sensor and engine RPM's. There should be (NO EGR) when in Park or Neutral, TPS input below a specified value or TPS indicating Wide Open Throttle (WOT).
With the ignition "ON", engine stopped, the EGR solenoid is de-energized, and by grounding the diagnostic terminal the solenoid is energized.

1.)This test will determine if the ECM set the code due to CKT 935 being grounded on start up. If the code does not repeat but the customer complained of a check engine light after start up then this circuit should be checked carefully for an intermittent grounded condition.
2.)If Code 32 repeated, then disconnect the EGR temperature switch and try to reset the code. This will determine if the ECM, wiring or temperature switch is at fault.
3.)This test will check for a possible open in CKT 935. The ECM supplies 9-12 volts to CKT 935.
4.)By grounding the diagnostic terminal, the EGR solenoid should close and allow vacuum to be applied and the vacuum should hold.
5.)This test will determine if the electrical control part of the system is at fault or if the connector or solenoid are at fault.
6.)By plugging the EGR valve side ungrounding the diagnostic terminal, the solenoid valve should open and allow vacuum to bleed off through the vent.
7.)With the engine not running and vacuum is applied to the valve, the valve should move to the fully open position.
8.)Due to this engine using a negative back pressure valve, the valve should close when the engine is cranked over.

 

Thank you Anguish
that is exactly what i was lookin for........ being an ex mechanic, i did'nt realize
how much i depended on them..............any snow down your way yet??

 

Sure thing.

We got a couple of inches last night, but it was all gone by midday today. Got my 8 year old all amped up though. :jester

 

There's a lot of good information in here for code 32. I had a bear with mine but finally got over it. Thanks to the forum.

 

Just had the same problem. First problem was bad vacuum lines, replaced all of them and the mechanic at the dealership said the solinoid was working fine. When took out to test drive, 5 miles and "Bing!!" on it came! Put the digital reader on it and everything was working fine!?!?!
Ended up deciding to just put on a new EGR and it hasn't come on since. Since you have gone through the effort to take out the EGR for $70.00 or so it would be worth it to cahnge.
Hope it helps. :flag :seeya

 

Thanks for everyones help......... and No I have not figured it out yet :mad
its going to be one of thoes problems that will drive me nuts or at least pull the check eng light :D (kidding) I'll let evry one know what the resolution is when i find it :yesnod: