Brake Bleeder Thread Size/Pitch?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 158
Likes: 0
From: Houston TX
Brake Bleeder Thread Size/Pitch?
'95 LT1 Coupe:
So I'm putting speed bleeders all around. No worries until I get to my right front caliper. A bit of aluminum came out with the old bleed fitting.
I want to clean it up with a tap (which I have yet to buy).
It appears that the thread is M10 X 1.0, however, it could maybe be 3/8 UNF....
Anybody know for sure? I'm leaning metric, but I know there are some old SAE throwbacks scattered here and there (like internal engine)...
So I'm putting speed bleeders all around. No worries until I get to my right front caliper. A bit of aluminum came out with the old bleed fitting.
I want to clean it up with a tap (which I have yet to buy).
It appears that the thread is M10 X 1.0, however, it could maybe be 3/8 UNF....
Anybody know for sure? I'm leaning metric, but I know there are some old SAE throwbacks scattered here and there (like internal engine)...
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 34,873
Likes: 487
From: Lacey WA RVN 68-69
NCM Sinkhole Donor
If the threads appear stripped, I would bite the bullet and get another caliper. If the threads are too far gone, the speed bleeder could leak even with the sealant that is applied on them.
And once you run the threads, if some material goes down into the passages, you may wind up having to take the caliper apart to flush everything out.
And once you run the threads, if some material goes down into the passages, you may wind up having to take the caliper apart to flush everything out.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 158
Likes: 0
From: Houston TX
If the threads appear stripped, I would bite the bullet and get another caliper. If the threads are too far gone, the speed bleeder could leak even with the sealant that is applied on them.
And once you run the threads, if some material goes down into the passages, you may wind up having to take the caliper apart to flush everything out.
And once you run the threads, if some material goes down into the passages, you may wind up having to take the caliper apart to flush everything out.
Worse comes to worse, I can use a non-speed bleeder (factory), and if all is lost, then I'll consider a fresh caliper....
Yep...gotta keep those bits of metal out of the system!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 9,036
Likes: 13
From: Edmonton AB
As for taps, the Plug style is preferred over a Taper style. It looks like
a Bottoming style is not available for M10 x 1.
Irwin/Hanson offers the #1738 Tap High Carbon Steel Machine
Screw Thread Metric Plug 10mm - 1.00
The same tap is offered as #8338 in different packaging
The tap alone might not be a stocking item at the corner store, butScrew Thread Metric Plug 10mm - 1.00
The same tap is offered as #8338 in different packaging
local tool vendors are likely to have it by itself. Motorcycle shops
and Import dealerships might be able to direct you to a local source.
One of them might chase the thread with their tool for a small fee.
Another thought is to buy a full metric tap & die set. The M10 x 1 is
a common item in such sets.
If you are unable to locate the tap either singly or in a set locally,
then consider shopping online at places like SJDiscount
.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 3,253
Likes: 2
From: Castro Valley CA
If the threads appear stripped, I would bite the bullet and get another caliper. If the threads are too far gone, the speed bleeder could leak even with the sealant that is applied on them.
And once you run the threads, if some material goes down into the passages, you may wind up having to take the caliper apart to flush everything out.
And once you run the threads, if some material goes down into the passages, you may wind up having to take the caliper apart to flush everything out.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 9,036
Likes: 13
From: Edmonton AB
to the comment about the role of the threads.
The seal at the threads is fundamental to the principal by which the
Speed Bleeder operates. If the seal is faulty, air is likely to be drawn
past the sealant on the SB threads into the hydraulic circuit.
That aside, my vote is that where the OP ought to be particularly
careful is in running the tap into the bottom of the bleeder port.
The flare at the end of the port is where the high pressure working
seal is established between the bleeder and the caliper. If this flare
surface is scored by the end of the tap or something else, then
chances of a leak occuring when pedal pressure is applied increases
noticeably.
I am unaware of a way for an end user to repair the flare surface.
.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 3,253
Likes: 2
From: Castro Valley CA
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 158
Likes: 0
From: Houston TX
Excellent feedback gents...
I've got an M10 x 1.0 tap coming (ordered one online).
I searched a LOT of tap sets, and could never find a reasonably priced set that had that pitch (usually M10 x 1.25 and M10 x 1.5 come in the sets).
I'm unfamiliar with a thread chaser versus a tap; if there is such a beast for any reasonable price, it would seem even more difficult to find than this tap was...
My conical seat is fine; the hosed-up thread is about 1/4" down from the top...
I've got an M10 x 1.0 tap coming (ordered one online).
I searched a LOT of tap sets, and could never find a reasonably priced set that had that pitch (usually M10 x 1.25 and M10 x 1.5 come in the sets).
I'm unfamiliar with a thread chaser versus a tap; if there is such a beast for any reasonable price, it would seem even more difficult to find than this tap was...
My conical seat is fine; the hosed-up thread is about 1/4" down from the top...
