FX3 gurus step inside
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 5,002
Likes: 5
From: No Opti Here Tn
St. Jude Donor '06
FX3 gurus step inside
I replaced all 4 shocks and got the slow turn codes for a while then after they got broken in no codes for about 6 months
Now I am getting codes 14,22,31,32,33 and they come right back after clearing them
The middle of the shock sticks up about 5.5mm and the gears look fine
I just cant figure it out
Help
Now I am getting codes 14,22,31,32,33 and they come right back after clearing them
The middle of the shock sticks up about 5.5mm and the gears look fine
I just cant figure it out
Help
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,363
Likes: 7
From: 1994 LT1 Coupe 6-speed with FX3 & 2000 LS1 Vert 6-Speed with F45 Hunterdon County, NJ
Hi 94ZR1,
ouch, per the codes, every wheel is affected. Likely you have a few bad shock gears and/or bad actuators gears/motors (motor on top of shock).
Recommend starting with the front, e.g. left front -- spread the 'c' spring and gently lift off the electrical actuator.
confirm the gear on the shock only rotates back and forth 270 degrees and that the stopper piece of metal is still intact.
Then, turn over the electrical actuator and with a flashlight, inspect the gear inside (behind/underneath the rubber grommet) -- look for any cracks or out-of-roundness in the gear or its teeth.
Assuming above OK, now, while holding actuator in your hand, and looking at its gear with the flashlight, have someone turn the ignition key to 'on' (do not start the engine).
The actuator gear should rotate first one direction, then the other, then settle in the middle (this will actually create a code, but since you have so many, no biggie).
Repeat this same test with the Right Front.
Generally, the 'time out' errors (13,14,21,22) mean the actuator did not send back a signal within a certain time limit -- often means actuator's motor is not working or is jammed.
The 'out of position' errors (31,33,32,34) mean the shock gear, shock gear stopper or actuator gear are broken -- often the gear didn't stop rotating or was not limited to the 270 degree rotation.
ouch, per the codes, every wheel is affected. Likely you have a few bad shock gears and/or bad actuators gears/motors (motor on top of shock).
Recommend starting with the front, e.g. left front -- spread the 'c' spring and gently lift off the electrical actuator.
confirm the gear on the shock only rotates back and forth 270 degrees and that the stopper piece of metal is still intact.
Then, turn over the electrical actuator and with a flashlight, inspect the gear inside (behind/underneath the rubber grommet) -- look for any cracks or out-of-roundness in the gear or its teeth.
Assuming above OK, now, while holding actuator in your hand, and looking at its gear with the flashlight, have someone turn the ignition key to 'on' (do not start the engine).
The actuator gear should rotate first one direction, then the other, then settle in the middle (this will actually create a code, but since you have so many, no biggie).
Repeat this same test with the Right Front.
Generally, the 'time out' errors (13,14,21,22) mean the actuator did not send back a signal within a certain time limit -- often means actuator's motor is not working or is jammed.
The 'out of position' errors (31,33,32,34) mean the shock gear, shock gear stopper or actuator gear are broken -- often the gear didn't stop rotating or was not limited to the 270 degree rotation.
Racer
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 408
Likes: 0
From: Elkton MD
Many codes
I'm an EE but know nothing of the FX3. Here goes anyway;
Frequently so many codes indicates a poor ground. Since the sensors are scattered to the '4 corners' you might begin at the central point, the controller.
Good luck and please post the solution
Frequently so many codes indicates a poor ground. Since the sensors are scattered to the '4 corners' you might begin at the central point, the controller.
Good luck and please post the solution
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 5,002
Likes: 5
From: No Opti Here Tn
St. Jude Donor '06
The gears rotate and appear to be working
Module behind seat appears to be good connection and good ground
I am completely baffled
It makes the LTPWS light seem pretty minor
I hate having any lights
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 5,002
Likes: 5
From: No Opti Here Tn
St. Jude Donor '06
Hi 94ZR1,
ouch, per the codes, every wheel is affected. Likely you have a few bad shock gears and/or bad actuators gears/motors (motor on top of shock).
Recommend starting with the front, e.g. left front -- spread the 'c' spring and gently lift off the electrical actuator.
Why does that sound dirty?
confirm the gear on the shock only rotates back and forth 270 degrees and that the stopper piece of metal is still intact.
I believe for a 94 it is less than that but yes it looks fine
Then, turn over the electrical actuator and with a flashlight, inspect the gear inside (behind/underneath the rubber grommet) -- look for any cracks or out-of-roundness in the gear or its teeth.
Gears all look fine
Assuming above OK, now, while holding actuator in your hand, and looking at its gear with the flashlight, have someone turn the ignition key to 'on' (do not start the engine).
Did this
The actuator gear should rotate first one direction, then the other, then settle in the middle (this will actually create a code, but since you have so many, no biggie).
It does
Repeat this same test with the Right Front.
Ditto
Generally, the 'time out' errors (13,14,21,22) mean the actuator did not send back a signal within a certain time limit -- often means actuator's motor is not working or is jammed.
Both front actuatrs rotate as expected and there is no visible damage in either front actuator
The 'out of position' errors (31,33,32,34) mean the shock gear, shock gear stopper or actuator gear are broken -- often the gear didn't stop rotating or was not limited to the 270 degree rotation.
ouch, per the codes, every wheel is affected. Likely you have a few bad shock gears and/or bad actuators gears/motors (motor on top of shock).
Recommend starting with the front, e.g. left front -- spread the 'c' spring and gently lift off the electrical actuator.
Why does that sound dirty?
confirm the gear on the shock only rotates back and forth 270 degrees and that the stopper piece of metal is still intact.
I believe for a 94 it is less than that but yes it looks fine
Then, turn over the electrical actuator and with a flashlight, inspect the gear inside (behind/underneath the rubber grommet) -- look for any cracks or out-of-roundness in the gear or its teeth.
Gears all look fine
Assuming above OK, now, while holding actuator in your hand, and looking at its gear with the flashlight, have someone turn the ignition key to 'on' (do not start the engine).
Did this
The actuator gear should rotate first one direction, then the other, then settle in the middle (this will actually create a code, but since you have so many, no biggie).
It does
Repeat this same test with the Right Front.
Ditto
Generally, the 'time out' errors (13,14,21,22) mean the actuator did not send back a signal within a certain time limit -- often means actuator's motor is not working or is jammed.
Both front actuatrs rotate as expected and there is no visible damage in either front actuator
The 'out of position' errors (31,33,32,34) mean the shock gear, shock gear stopper or actuator gear are broken -- often the gear didn't stop rotating or was not limited to the 270 degree rotation.
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,566
Likes: 4
From: Mt Laurel NJ
St. Jude Donor '06-'07
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Team Owner
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From: Lacey WA RVN 68-69
NCM Sinkhole Donor
Does the shock rod rotate and stop? IIRC, the amount of rotation was 90 degrees for the early shocks and 60 degrees for the later shocks.
From the codes you listed, it appears that the Left Rear shock/actuator is OK. You would have gotten a Code 13 and 34 for that shock. Do you get those codes and maybe left them off the list??
The height of the gear above the cup sounds right as 4.5mm is the minimum. Check to make sure that the actuator is sitting square to the shock and that the metal cup (with the teeth on it) is tight. The wire leads on the front shocks should face toward the rear of the car and be turned slightly to the inside. The rear actuators should face forward.
From the codes you listed, it appears that the Left Rear shock/actuator is OK. You would have gotten a Code 13 and 34 for that shock. Do you get those codes and maybe left them off the list??
The height of the gear above the cup sounds right as 4.5mm is the minimum. Check to make sure that the actuator is sitting square to the shock and that the metal cup (with the teeth on it) is tight. The wire leads on the front shocks should face toward the rear of the car and be turned slightly to the inside. The rear actuators should face forward.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Why are there squished peanut butter cups in my underware?
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 5,002
Likes: 5
From: No Opti Here Tn
St. Jude Donor '06
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,363
Likes: 7
From: 1994 LT1 Coupe 6-speed with FX3 & 2000 LS1 Vert 6-Speed with F45 Hunterdon County, NJ
Sure is a interesting problem.
A few more questions/tests:
1. When you install the actuators, do you install the 'c' spring clip first or after setting the actuator on its metal 'cap'? If 'c' spring clip first, do you feel it 'snap' in? If afterwards, do you see the 'c' spring clip recess into the actuator recess?
2. When you measured the height of the shock gear, from what reference point is the measurement?
3. with the actuator installed (e.g. RF), and with your hand touching the actuator or shock, do you feel the actuator working properly when the key is first turned on, but engine not started (i.e. shortly rotate one way, then shortly the other, then settling in the middle)?
4. Have you had a dead battery or had to jump the car recently?
5. Have you tried disconnecting a battery cable from the battery for a period of time (1 hr plus) to 'reset' everything?
6. What is the digital dash battery voltage before starting the car and after the car is running?
7. Have you checked the ground for tightness (think its G106, the wires connected to the bell housing bolt driver side.
8. Do you have the FSM and have you run through the decision tree for a bad LTPWS module?
Hopefully an answer or test of one of the above questions will spur either an answer or some more ideas -- however, there's a chance it might be the LTPWS module -- ouch.
A few more questions/tests:
1. When you install the actuators, do you install the 'c' spring clip first or after setting the actuator on its metal 'cap'? If 'c' spring clip first, do you feel it 'snap' in? If afterwards, do you see the 'c' spring clip recess into the actuator recess?
2. When you measured the height of the shock gear, from what reference point is the measurement?
3. with the actuator installed (e.g. RF), and with your hand touching the actuator or shock, do you feel the actuator working properly when the key is first turned on, but engine not started (i.e. shortly rotate one way, then shortly the other, then settling in the middle)?
4. Have you had a dead battery or had to jump the car recently?
5. Have you tried disconnecting a battery cable from the battery for a period of time (1 hr plus) to 'reset' everything?
6. What is the digital dash battery voltage before starting the car and after the car is running?
7. Have you checked the ground for tightness (think its G106, the wires connected to the bell housing bolt driver side.
8. Do you have the FSM and have you run through the decision tree for a bad LTPWS module?
Hopefully an answer or test of one of the above questions will spur either an answer or some more ideas -- however, there's a chance it might be the LTPWS module -- ouch.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 5,002
Likes: 5
From: No Opti Here Tn
St. Jude Donor '06
Sure is a interesting problem.
A few more questions/tests:
1. When you install the actuators, do you install the 'c' spring clip first or after setting the actuator on its metal 'cap'? If 'c' spring clip first, do you feel it 'snap' in? If afterwards, do you see the 'c' spring clip recess into the actuator recess?
I have done it both ways but usually with the clip in place so I can hear the click per the FSM
2. When you measured the height of the shock gear, from what reference point is the measurement?
Top of cup to top of shock rod per the FSM
3. with the actuator installed (e.g. RF), and with your hand touching the actuator or shock, do you feel the actuator working properly when the key is first turned on, but engine not started (i.e. shortly rotate one way, then shortly the other, then settling in the middle)?
Yes and also with actuator removed it moves as it should
4. Have you had a dead battery or had to jump the car recently?
No but I put it on a charger just to be sure with no effect
5. Have you tried disconnecting a battery cable from the battery for a period of time (1 hr plus) to 'reset' everything?
NoI will try that
6. What is the digital dash battery voltage before starting the car and after the car is running?
It appears normal at about 12 before starting and higher after starting
7. Have you checked the ground for tightness (think its G106, the wires connected to the bell housing bolt driver side.
It appears to be fine but when it warms up I will take it off and re attach
8. Do you have the FSM and have you run through the decision tree for a bad LTPWS module?
Yeah its the RR sensor Not too worried about that
The big metal band broke and I replaced both the band and the sensor and it worked for a while but now the sensor is bad again
Hopefully an answer or test of one of the above questions will spur either an answer or some more ideas -- however, there's a chance it might be the LTPWS module -- ouch.
A few more questions/tests:
1. When you install the actuators, do you install the 'c' spring clip first or after setting the actuator on its metal 'cap'? If 'c' spring clip first, do you feel it 'snap' in? If afterwards, do you see the 'c' spring clip recess into the actuator recess?
I have done it both ways but usually with the clip in place so I can hear the click per the FSM
2. When you measured the height of the shock gear, from what reference point is the measurement?
Top of cup to top of shock rod per the FSM
3. with the actuator installed (e.g. RF), and with your hand touching the actuator or shock, do you feel the actuator working properly when the key is first turned on, but engine not started (i.e. shortly rotate one way, then shortly the other, then settling in the middle)?
Yes and also with actuator removed it moves as it should
4. Have you had a dead battery or had to jump the car recently?
No but I put it on a charger just to be sure with no effect
5. Have you tried disconnecting a battery cable from the battery for a period of time (1 hr plus) to 'reset' everything?
NoI will try that
6. What is the digital dash battery voltage before starting the car and after the car is running?
It appears normal at about 12 before starting and higher after starting
7. Have you checked the ground for tightness (think its G106, the wires connected to the bell housing bolt driver side.
It appears to be fine but when it warms up I will take it off and re attach
8. Do you have the FSM and have you run through the decision tree for a bad LTPWS module?
Yeah its the RR sensor Not too worried about that
The big metal band broke and I replaced both the band and the sensor and it worked for a while but now the sensor is bad again
Hopefully an answer or test of one of the above questions will spur either an answer or some more ideas -- however, there's a chance it might be the LTPWS module -- ouch.
Thanks
Racer
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 373
Likes: 0
From: Lenexa Kansas
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 5,002
Likes: 5
From: No Opti Here Tn
St. Jude Donor '06
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 5,002
Likes: 5
From: No Opti Here Tn
St. Jude Donor '06
Yall dont give up on me yet
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,363
Likes: 7
From: 1994 LT1 Coupe 6-speed with FX3 & 2000 LS1 Vert 6-Speed with F45 Hunterdon County, NJ
94ZR1,
did you try the battery disconnect yet?
BTW, was re-reading my post and when I mentioned the LTPWS, I actually meant the Selective Ride System, sorry..
did you try the battery disconnect yet?
BTW, was re-reading my post and when I mentioned the LTPWS, I actually meant the Selective Ride System, sorry..
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 5,002
Likes: 5
From: No Opti Here Tn
St. Jude Donor '06
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,269
Likes: 118
From: N. Babylon NY
Hi,
On my 92 I had a height issue with the gear and cup. What I did was remove the shock and laid the actuator on top with no clips. I moved the actuator up and down till the light went out (Had my wife in the car). The end result was I made a shim and placed it below the cup to shim it up (a few thousands). This was back in 2001 and no issues since. Also note that I track my car (RoadRace).
I got this idea from DRM and it worked for me. Having a FSM will help as it has simple flow charts to follow.
Good luck!
Steve
On my 92 I had a height issue with the gear and cup. What I did was remove the shock and laid the actuator on top with no clips. I moved the actuator up and down till the light went out (Had my wife in the car). The end result was I made a shim and placed it below the cup to shim it up (a few thousands). This was back in 2001 and no issues since. Also note that I track my car (RoadRace).
I got this idea from DRM and it worked for me. Having a FSM will help as it has simple flow charts to follow.
Good luck!
Steve
Racer
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 372
Likes: 1
From: Corunna Mi
Jim, what I found when fixing my FX3 was that removing the battery to reset the system or even removing the controller behind the seat would NOT reset the codes. Even though the system was now working correctly the same codes were displayed until you reset the system by shorting the two pins 3 times for 2 seconds each. Although it sounds simple enough it took about 10 tries before it would actually reset. Once it did then only 12 was displayed. One possible way to tell if you are getting it to reset is code 23. If it is still showing after you have done the "reset" you know that the shorting did not work as this code should only show up after you have cycled the key on-off 3 times without moving the car. If you show a code 23 and then "reset" and have codes but NO 23 then you still have problems. Hope this helps.