88Z51

It looks like I need to replace the power booster on my '88 (pedal is hard as a rock - doesn't seem to have any power assist). Any tips on how to remove the two nuts located on the firewall (inside the car) that attach the booster to the firewall?

65Z01

The "detailed" disassembly instructions in my FSM state "remove:
1. Nuts attaching MC to the rods.
2. MC.
3. Vac hose from vac check valve.
4. Pushrod end of valve assy. from brake pedal.
5. Nuts from the rods.
6. Power Head assy. from cowl.

Can't you get a wrench onto those nuts?

88Z51

Thanks, after reading those same "detailed" instructions in my FSM, I thought "easy enough, how difficult could it be?" Then I crawled under there. Holy crap! I think I may need to purchase a 13mm wobbly socket as the steering column and a metal bracket all but obstruct access to one of the nuts. And while not as bad, the other doesn't exactly appear easy to access either.

CorvetteMike2024

Isnt there 4 bolts inside? Anyway, take the seat out, use lots of swivels and extensions, and a good flashlight. Its do able. You may need a helper to hold the unit in place when you put it on. Good luck, A project you wont forget about for a while. I still have memories of that project 5 years ago.

Corvette Mike

88Z51

Thanks. While it was a pain, I was able to remove the nuts and then the booster from the firewall. While other years may use four nuts, thankfully, this only has two. I think the real fun will be tomorrow when the new booster arrives - I suspect getting those nuts started on the studs is going to be a serious test of my patience

CorvetteMike2024

Have you experienced the "heater core replacement" job yet? That one will leave you with memories also.

Corvette Mike

88Z51

While replacing a heater core is quite possibly the worst job to do on most any car, I've heard it's an absolute nightmare on a C4. Something to look forward to......

joecarter85

1/4" swivels and extensions. Been about 3 years since I've done a booster, and my back still hurts. I remember thinking "Sh*T, if I get that 13mm nut off, how the hell will I ever get it back on?"

Well, it took me like an hour to get that nut threaded by using :
lots of swivels and extensions

I should have taken the time to remove the seat......but nooooooooo, I didn't want to be a girly-man.....

When you get the job done, pay yourself $500, you'll feel like you earned it !!

runner140*

Its do-able but not an easy fix. Been there, done that. Use a socket with two swivels and one extension. Level of pain/difficulty----its a cross between a root canal and a vasectomy.

joecarter85

I found it easier to pass a kidney stone than replacing a booster. ....it would be nice if the booster mfg. would also supply 40cc of demoral...at least this way you could contort your body every which way but loose and not feel a thing !!!

88Z51

I was able to do the job without removing the seat - while I don't think that qualifies me as a girly man, but sometimes being of smaller stature has its advantages.

Putting the two nuts on the studs wasn't as much of a test of patience as I thought it would be. The pin that connects the booster to the pedal seemed to be the biggest pain - I'd rate its degree of pain/difficulty somewhere near a sprained finger.


I'm enjoying a muscle relaxing ice cold beer right now. Although by morning, I may well be wishing for those 40cc's!


BTW, there was a 4" crack in the housing of the old booster. I'm not sure what would cause that to suddenly happen, but whatever the reason, I'm happy to have brakes again! Now all I need is nice weather so I can play.

joecarter85

Congrats !!! You are mans man!!

I totally forgot about that SOB clip on the brake connector rod that you have to remove blindly!! Man, I am re-living the horror through your thread......

Did you enjoy that one nut on the right side of the pedal ?? You know, the one that you can only see with one eye and barely get a socket on it.....

Anyway, glad you got her all fixed up....way to go !!!!!!

Yorcci

Oh yeah, brings back all those memories of these two ****'s at my previous '87... (one is visible, while the other is hiding)



Ergonomic working position

88Z51

Now throw a clutch pedal into the mix and it's even more fun!

Yorcci

Outch! Didn't even cross my mind, because that '87 was automatic. Hope, that I won't have to do it all again with the present manual...

carsvettecarsvette

Check the bolts on the replacement booster. The original had SAE threads on the Delco replacement it had Metric threads so nuts would not work. I am glad I checked this beforehand.

hcbph

You realize this is a 9 yr old thread. Still good info but definitely dated. If you want to add to it, on starting the nuts issue: use hot melt glue and stick them into the socket to get them aligned. They won't fall out on you and it will definitely help keep a little sanity around.

marios89

I did the heater core job. It was a nightmare but it makes all other jobs seem easy.....just sayin

lake_harley

I agree that even if it is an old thread it contains a lot of great suggestions. I had to replace the booster on my '89 twice. The first time I bought a replacement at NAPA, which went bad (housing cracked) in a couple years. The next time I took the suggestion made by many on this forum to use the metal booster that fits my '89. I think they are actually from other years of Vettes, but it was a direct replacement. I got mine from Zip Corvette. It was P.N. DB-606. I'm hoping it's the last time I have to replace it. At 67 years old it wasn't fun crawling in and out and in and out of the car when I would leave something outside the car that needed to be inside the car, with me laying on my back!

Lynn

jazfe

Changed my second booster in 9 months. First one was plastic. This time I went with a metal one...........Hope it lasts longer than 9 months. I use long extensions and only have to get all pretzel ed up when installing the pushrod on the brake pedal.