Ok I've searched the forums and found some info but still have some questions. Any one ever use this rotating assembly.... http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku? I'm wondering if this would work well with an 86 vette. Another question is how wild of a cam can we put in these things? I'm going to have TPIS program the chip. I was told that if I go to crazy with the cam I will have to change out the MAF. Any ideas are welcome!! I'm kinda going for a slightly rough idle but nothing rediculous. Thanks! O btw planning on using Vortec heads and the Mini-ram on it if it matters.

 

this is off topic but you have the same exact corvette that i do both year and model. If you could do me a small favor and take a picture of your distributor cap. My car doesnt run and my brother didnt know what he was doing when he changed the cap 8 years ago and may have misplaced it. i need to know how the cap sits so that i can fix it cuz a repair manual doesnt help.

 

ok I can take a pic asap but if it helps the coil on mine points directly towards the drivers side of the car.... the little nostril portion with the wires is the parts pointing

 

What do you intend to do with car?
How much Hp you looking to make?

4340 crank is nice but $$$ if not justified if under 450Hp.
The Vortecs are going to limit your cam choice as they only go .480 lift stock without mods/.540 ? with mods.

Add some $$ for mods and screw in rocker studs.
If running Vortec heads would look for a piston with smaller dish to get CR up; Vortecs have 64 cc chambers.

MAF will not be a limitation with retune;some have run in the 10's with MAF.

Cheaper , better options out there.
check out www.cnc-motorsports.com options

Example;
Scat 383 (w/ 4340 rods , not 5140 Summit ones )
$1300
http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/produ...397&CtgID=9016
$180 extra gets balance , new flexplate and balancer.

Same with a cast steel crank
$800
http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/produ...215&CtgID=9212

$$$ you save on crank could go towards a set of Alum heads with no valve lift restrictions

If you drop back to a cast crank , can get assembled short block (4 bolt, not 2 bolt like yours ) with warranty for $1700.
Save on machining costs and sell your old engine to get some $$ back

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CHEVY...3A1|240%3A1308

Lots of options out there.

 

If installed in the stock position, the plug extension on the cap points at 3:00 o'clock with you standing in front of the car facing the windshield.

In that position, you will have enough clearance to turn the distributor when setting the initial timing without the extension hitting either the firewall or the plenum.

In fact, though, the distributor can be pointed in any direction; the engine doesn't know or even care where the plug extension is pointed. All it cares about is how the wires are routed and where the rotor is pointed.

Remove the #1 spark plug and stick your finger in the hole. Now, with the distributor cap plug extension pointed at 3:00 o'clock, bump the engine until you feel a pressure build up at the #1 hole. When you do, you'll know that the #1 is on the compression stroke. You can unplug the BAT wire if you want to if you're concerned about the engine starting.

Now remove the cap and check the rotor tip. It should be point very close to the #1 wire terminal of the cap; the terminal where the #1 wire is plugged in.

If it's not, you may have to remove the distributor and turn it one-tooth (one tooth of the distributor oil pump drive gear) to position the gear so that it does.

After moving the gear one tooth, recheck the rotor positioning as above.

As I said, positioning it that way, at 3:00, gives you the most adjustability but also allows your plug wires to reach from the plug to the cap.

That's how I do it.

Jake