guys what size turbo should i look at for a rear mount kit

 

Just curious, where are you going to find a rear mount kit that is available for a C4?

 

Im assuming hes looking to build his own...

unless he wants to wait for raptor to come out with their kit... which will be closer to 2020 then 2009

 

 

yep i want to build my own kit. Nothing big i want like 8 psi. i am worried about a scavange pump. But here is my idea now. y pipe into a 4 inch pipe back to the turbo with a 3 inch return. no coller got to figure out where to bring the piping into the engine compartment at. and what type of turbo to use

 

I would look into the LT1 camaro STS kit. There are a bunch of people running them over on the camaroz28.com in the forced induction board. I'm pretty sure that they Y into a 3" and that goes strait into the turbo. I think they like to use the TC76 turbo from Forcedinductions.com, but there may be cheaper places to get it.

I would see if you can find pics of the STS kit. Its the same basic drive train, just different pipe routing to get around the body differences.

 

Scavenge pump for rear/low mounts

Like brian said,stay smaller on the piping. It would be better to rock 2.5" hotside/3" coldside.
This will help keep velocity and heat higher on it's way to the turbine.

Turbo size/brand is subjective. everyone likes what they like.

Ballbearing GT4094R in .86 A/R is one we commonly use as an upgrade to STS kits. F-bodies,GTO's etc. all respond real well to that turbo. It can support 850 max, so call it a street/strip turbo. The LS motors make full boost before 3K with that turbo.

A larger 76mm unit like brian described will make more top end power and leave more room for improvement.

 

These guys are giving you good advice. Also go to ls1tech and search the forum alot of single rear mounts there. You may want to look at Holsets for a turbo, maybe a HX40 half to look a the compressor map. Those holsets can be picked pretty damn cheap. About scavenge pumps I think people are overlooking the best possible solutions. The electric will work fine, but I think a rear end single or dual stage drysump pump would be the best solution, I think people see those as race only and don't even considered them but they are dead reliable and would work extremely well. More or less thats thier purpose to scavenge oil for systems similar to this. You would have to drive it off the motor, thats the only drawback. As far a I am concerned thats the most reliable sure fire way for me, just my opinion. Good luck.

 

Do you mean 2.5" intake/3" Exhaust?

The other way seems a little odd...

 

I don't blame you, it has been a long time... We invested two years and lots of money but we have the second car in the works. After the 2nd mule car gets a clean bill of health we will release to the public. BTW - anyone that wants a system now can do so if we install it in Las Vegas.

I've also put my retirement paper's in. After 29 years of either working on or flying Air Force fighters I'll be hanging it up. The good part is I'll have more time to focus on Raptor.

Cheers,
RH

 

No he is right 2.5" exhaust 3" intake. Calc your cfm (cubic feet per minute) of the the engine at your peak power, then calc the area of your charge pipe in square feet, radius squared time pi, divide cfm by the pipes area this is you feet per minute, then divide by 60 this is feet per second (FPS). From my head porting experience I would keep the max fps of the intake charge around 350 to 375 fps. So thats how you calc intake charge pipe diameter. Another point, 10 hp is 1 lb/min arflow, there is 0.07 lb of air per cfm approximately just use this to get ball park figures, you can look up your density to find the exact values.

Also to the exhaust side people have been running 2.5" single to the turbo and they are running 10.3 in the quarter mile and are very happy driving the vehicle on the street. Just go to LS1tech and look up Zombie's posts, alot of info there. Another thing I am working on is a block valve to block off one side of a twin scroll turbine housing. it will hopefully do 2 things, effectively lower a/r and also control exhaust pressure acting as a wastegate as it opens the other side of the turbine housing lowering pressure accross the turbine rotor. So the turbine housing would have to be larger than necessary to make sure you can control exhaust pressure across the turbine as the valve opens. I will hopefully be shipping a unit off next monday for testing on a single holset installed on a ls1 engine.

 

bino, sounds like a good product. what sizes are you going tyo be doing them in? also what controle methods are you going to be using to control the valve??

Cheers

Chris.

PS. hope they are cheaper thanthe $500 a none vendor was offering.... ;-)

 

It's pretty easily done with a pair of wastegates too. One master, one port slave.

 

yes mate i have seen it done like that.

By the way hows your TT 4WD build coming on????

Chris.

 

I was just thinking about that this morning. Tax returns are comming soon and I need some new parts for the car

AWD is the way to go!!