I'll have to look for the paperwork to see who manufactured it.
Most dependable slave cylinder
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 898
Likes: 1
From: Pearland Texas
Most dependable slave cylinder
I know, another slave thread. I'm sick of mine leaking after a short period of time. ( done the reverse seal procedure on two ) Has anyone had good success with any specific brand ? Rock Auto doesn't know the difference between the ones they offer. Help, my car is setting on jack stands with the exhaust off and this will be a good time to replace it.
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 156
Likes: 1
From: North Aurora IL
Got one from a corvette supplier as a GM part and it leaked like crazy. I bought one from Advance Auto and it's great! Only problem is that it's cast not machined so it is not black powder coated and shiney. So, if you can live with that to drive the car best bang for my buck.
Last edited by Heckler45; Feb 12, 2009 at 11:46 PM.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 898
Likes: 1
From: Pearland Texas
Someone made a comment about Napa, might try them this weekend.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Akron Ohio
2025 Corvette of the Year Finalist - Modified
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I just bought the Dorman cast iron one from Rock Auto. Its less than 60 bucks and has a lifetime warranty. I have not installed it yet but it looks like a well built unit.
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Race Director
Joined: Mar 1999
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From: Bartlett Illinois
I have a Dorman Cast one as well.. got it at Rock Auto too!!
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: 1994 LT1 Coupe 6-speed with FX3 & 2000 LS1 Vert 6-Speed with F45 Hunterdon County, NJ
Incorrect Bleeding Procedure
Wow,
I don't doubt there are quality issues with a 'some' slaves, but this many folks having problems suggests the problem might lay elsewhere.
I wonder how many 'leaking' slaves, leak because they were bled BEFORE being fully installed?
Bleeding the slave without it being fully installed (aside of gravity bleeding WITHOUT applying any pedal pressure), WILL likey damage it and CAUSE it to leak.
Under normal operation, the slave's plunger/seal does not travel very far. By contrast, attempting to bleed the slave without it being installed will likey push its plunger/seal well beyond the normal travel area and likly into the area NOT smoothly machined, possibly damaging the seal. Then upon retracting/pushing the plunger/seal back in (i.e. during install), either the seal will be further damaged or its lip inverted (as reported by some).
There are also some procedures which recommend 'breaking' the plastic retainer inside the rubber nose -- NOT GOOD. The plastic retainer's purpose is to limit the plunger travel and prevent the plunger from pushing off the rubber nose. So DO NOT attempt to 'break' the plastic retainer -- it's there for a good reason.
I don't doubt there are quality issues with a 'some' slaves, but this many folks having problems suggests the problem might lay elsewhere.
I wonder how many 'leaking' slaves, leak because they were bled BEFORE being fully installed?
Bleeding the slave without it being fully installed (aside of gravity bleeding WITHOUT applying any pedal pressure), WILL likey damage it and CAUSE it to leak.
Under normal operation, the slave's plunger/seal does not travel very far. By contrast, attempting to bleed the slave without it being installed will likey push its plunger/seal well beyond the normal travel area and likly into the area NOT smoothly machined, possibly damaging the seal. Then upon retracting/pushing the plunger/seal back in (i.e. during install), either the seal will be further damaged or its lip inverted (as reported by some).
There are also some procedures which recommend 'breaking' the plastic retainer inside the rubber nose -- NOT GOOD. The plastic retainer's purpose is to limit the plunger travel and prevent the plunger from pushing off the rubber nose. So DO NOT attempt to 'break' the plastic retainer -- it's there for a good reason.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Overland Park Kansas
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Are you guys aware of the issue where many, many slave units were manufactured with the plunger seal installed backwards? This would result in failure within a short period of time.
Because it's difficult to identify all manufacturers with "bad" units, I'd just check before installing one. I'd point you to a great link (with pics) on another forum showing how to disassemble and check the seal, but that site showed no forums tonight.
Essentially, you use snap ring pliers to remove the clip holding the plunger in. Then, though difficult, you pull the plunger from the cylinder and check for correct installation of the seal. If wrong, just reverse it and reassemble.
gp
Because it's difficult to identify all manufacturers with "bad" units, I'd just check before installing one. I'd point you to a great link (with pics) on another forum showing how to disassemble and check the seal, but that site showed no forums tonight.
Essentially, you use snap ring pliers to remove the clip holding the plunger in. Then, though difficult, you pull the plunger from the cylinder and check for correct installation of the seal. If wrong, just reverse it and reassemble.
gp
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 898
Likes: 1
From: Pearland Texas
Are you guys aware of the issue where many, many slave units were manufactured with the plunger seal installed backwards? This would result in failure within a short period of time.
Because it's difficult to identify all manufacturers with "bad" units, I'd just check before installing one. I'd point you to a great link (with pics) on another forum showing how to disassemble and check the seal, but that site showed no forums tonight.
Essentially, you use snap ring pliers to remove the clip holding the plunger in. Then, though difficult, you pull the plunger from the cylinder and check for correct installation of the seal. If wrong, just reverse it and reassemble.
gp
Because it's difficult to identify all manufacturers with "bad" units, I'd just check before installing one. I'd point you to a great link (with pics) on another forum showing how to disassemble and check the seal, but that site showed no forums tonight.
Essentially, you use snap ring pliers to remove the clip holding the plunger in. Then, though difficult, you pull the plunger from the cylinder and check for correct installation of the seal. If wrong, just reverse it and reassemble.
gp
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 898
Likes: 1
From: Pearland Texas
Wow,
I don't doubt there are quality issues with a 'some' slaves, but this many folks having problems suggests the problem might lay elsewhere.
I wonder how many 'leaking' slaves, leak because they were bled BEFORE being fully installed?
Bleeding the slave without it being fully installed (aside of gravity bleeding WITHOUT applying any pedal pressure), WILL likey damage it and CAUSE it to leak.
Under normal operation, the slave's plunger/seal does not travel very far. By contrast, attempting to bleed the slave without it being installed will likey push its plunger/seal well beyond the normal travel area and likly into the area NOT smoothly machined, possibly damaging the seal. Then upon retracting/pushing the plunger/seal back in (i.e. during install), either the seal will be further damaged or its lip inverted (as reported by some).
There are also some procedures which recommend 'breaking' the plastic retainer inside the rubber nose -- NOT GOOD. The plastic retainer's purpose is to limit the plunger travel and prevent the plunger from pushing off the rubber nose. So DO NOT attempt to 'break' the plastic retainer -- it's there for a good reason.
I don't doubt there are quality issues with a 'some' slaves, but this many folks having problems suggests the problem might lay elsewhere.
I wonder how many 'leaking' slaves, leak because they were bled BEFORE being fully installed?
Bleeding the slave without it being fully installed (aside of gravity bleeding WITHOUT applying any pedal pressure), WILL likey damage it and CAUSE it to leak.
Under normal operation, the slave's plunger/seal does not travel very far. By contrast, attempting to bleed the slave without it being installed will likey push its plunger/seal well beyond the normal travel area and likly into the area NOT smoothly machined, possibly damaging the seal. Then upon retracting/pushing the plunger/seal back in (i.e. during install), either the seal will be further damaged or its lip inverted (as reported by some).
There are also some procedures which recommend 'breaking' the plastic retainer inside the rubber nose -- NOT GOOD. The plastic retainer's purpose is to limit the plunger travel and prevent the plunger from pushing off the rubber nose. So DO NOT attempt to 'break' the plastic retainer -- it's there for a good reason.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 898
Likes: 1
From: Pearland Texas
I wound up getting a Napa. It's a cast model and it's heavy. Being one piece hopefully it won't bleed thru the fused point as the GM model did. It held tight where the snap ring is. Thanks for the help.