Easiest Lowering route....
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,385
Likes: 4
From: King George VA
Easiest Lowering route....
I wanna go the easier more sure fire way for lowing my front end. Is that the VBP Front adjustable spring or the lowering wedge? I do like the idea of being adjustable and change the height. I know this is a difficult job but I read some of the old threads and some say its a nightmare with the wedges and getting it right. If the adjustable is a plug and play I rather do that. I will be useing a lift so I wont have a problem in that area. Inputs?
Racer
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 351
Likes: 3
From: amarillo tx
lowering front
hi, i went with the front lowering spring on my 1995 coupe from vbp and was very happy with it. it is easy to adjust and fairly easy to install. i worked with a man, gary, on the spring rate that i needed and he helped me to get the exact right spring and rate. it has the threaded adjusters in each end. i tried the short adjusters first and it was way to low so i went with the medium adjusters. i put coilovers on my zr1 and they are a bit more work to install but they are just as easy to adjust. if you need more info pm me. see ya
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 13,949
Likes: 705
From: WI
Not sure why this gets a bad rap. I've got mine torn down and it was very easy. It didn't take long either. I think the best is just to sand/cut the stock wedges down instead of replacing them. You can leave the spring in there and work on one side at a time or remove it.
Lots of wedge in there stock!
Lots of wedge in there stock!
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 988
Likes: 7
From: Sarasota Fl
Not sure why this gets a bad rap. I've got mine torn down and it was very easy. It didn't take long either. I think the best is just to sand/cut the stock wedges down instead of replacing them. You can leave the spring in there and work on one side at a time or remove it.
Lots of wedge in there stock!
Lots of wedge in there stock!
You don't even need to buy a lowering kit. Just grab some longer bolts and nylock nuts for the rear at a hardware store and sand down the wedges with a belt sander and you don't need to mess with any glues. $5 job.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,068
Likes: 6
I completed my lowering yesterday. I just sanded down the stock wedges, and trimmed the spring retaining brackets accordingly! For the rear, I ordered the bolts from ecklers, I believe 
Last edited by Epimax; Feb 18, 2009 at 12:31 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 34,873
Likes: 487
From: Lacey WA RVN 68-69
NCM Sinkhole Donor
. Check the top of the bolt for the strength rating marks and get the same or higher strength bolt. Nylock nuts can work but the OEM bolts use a castle nut with a hole for a cotter pin. Again, the nuts should equal the strength rating of the bolt.Most cities have specialty stores that deal in bolts, nuts and custom fasteners or you can try to order them online from places like Fastenal.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,385
Likes: 4
From: King George VA
I would def. like to go the cheaper route but I really want adjustable. I saw the thread on making one with your current one but I dont get a warm and fuzzy about tackling that one. Since VBP is having a sale I thought it might be a good decision.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 988
Likes: 7
From: Sarasota Fl
Unless you can get bolts and nuts that are the same strength grade as the OEM bolts, this is NOT a good idea . Check the top of the bolt for the strength rating marks and get the same or higher strength bolt. Nylock nuts can work but the OEM bolts use a castle nut with a hole for a cotter pin. Again, the nuts should equal the strength rating of the bolt.
Most cities have specialty stores that deal in bolts, nuts and custom fasteners or you can try to order them online from places like Fastenal.
. Check the top of the bolt for the strength rating marks and get the same or higher strength bolt. Nylock nuts can work but the OEM bolts use a castle nut with a hole for a cotter pin. Again, the nuts should equal the strength rating of the bolt.Most cities have specialty stores that deal in bolts, nuts and custom fasteners or you can try to order them online from places like Fastenal.
I should have clarified the bolts' quality. I meant go to your local Ace Hardware or such and they should have the longer bolts you need in the higher grades. They have up to Grade 8 and metric 12.9 (IIRC). Fastenal is a rip-off if you just need 2 bolts, but you'll be able to get them off their website in quantities as low as 1. Also, when lowering the rear, check to see how far down the castle nuts are. It is common in C4s for the nuts to be lower on one side than the other. Take note of the difference in threads between the two sides and apply that with the longer bolts to get a level rear. 
On another note, Eckler's uses Nyloc nuts with their kits:
Last edited by janarvae; Feb 18, 2009 at 03:14 PM.
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