Guys
had a FX3 Problem (Service Light came on)- pointed to the driver rear
---found a broken gear and a broken gear motor....sent them to
Captain Z for rebuild - installed all - still get a light and code....
Is there a re-set Procedure???
Thanks

 

My 93 FSM says you must clear codes using the Tech 1 or by grounding pin C in the DLC for two seconds, then repeat two more times for a total of three groundings.

 

Pin A in the pic is ground. A paper clip works fine if you bend it so that one end goes into C and the other in A.

 

I have a question...
Is the 95 OBD1? and if so, why does my 95 have 8 positions across on the connector and the diagram here shows 6 across?

Also,
I want to pull the FX3 shocks and send them off for a rebuild. Not lite or anything but I am getting bad wheel hop.
Is there anything special I need to know about installing them again? I have been trying to read as much as I can here and I'm not really clear on reinstalling the actuators after I get the shocks back. It there a specific procedure?
If you read here towards the end...
http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/...fx3/index.html
it makes it sound like there is. I can go borrow a service manual, but is it this rocket science? Anything I need to know to tear them off the car? Mark positions ets????
Any help is appreciated. This C4 is all new to me. Just got it last fall.

Thanks guys...

 

The 94 and 95 C4's are OBD1 but the factory started to use the OBDII ALDL connector. Pins A and C are stil the ones to use.

Check out your other post; I tried to answer your R&R question there.

 

Sorry C4cruiser, but for the 1994 (and I presume 1995 too) the FX3 diagnostic Pin is #3 (OBDII pins are numbered, not lettered -- top row 1-8, bottom row 9-16 -- both left to right).

To invoke the FX3 diagnostic mode, ground pin #3 (e.g. to pin #4 or #5, both of which are 'ground').

As you did note correctly, to 'clear' FX3 codes, 'ground pin '3' for 2 seconds, and repeat the procedure twice, for a total of three groundings (note: the 'service ride control' light will then stay lit (no blinking) until the key is turned off.

 

Your right, it's not 'rocket science'. Just be sure the Key is OFF and out of ignition during the whole process, otherwise if key is turned on, it will set codes which need to be cleared.

The trick is to take note of the position of the wire lead from the actuator and return it to the same position (fronts facing backwardish, rears facing forwardish).

The other thing I do is to first spread the large spring clip by moving each side outward and then up or down to keep it out of the metal cap's recess, then gently removing the actuator.

Reverse the procedure when installing -- this helps prevent the spring tension from pulling the actuator down when it is not properly seated on the shock gear, possibly damaging the shock gear and actuator. Once gently settled into position, move the spring-clip arms into the recess, it should snap in, and then push down and then lift up, to assure it is properly seated and held in by the spring-clip.

There is one other thing about bolting the actuator metal 'cup' onto the shock -- there is a specific minimum height of the selector gear above the top of the cup assembly retainer -- 4.5mm.

Given there are specific torques for all the components, your thought about borrowing a copy of the FSM would be a GOOD IDEA... Section 3G (in the 94 FSM).

 

Thanks for the reply. I went and grabbed the shop manual for a 94 yesterday. Looks fairly straight forward. I had already taken the shocks off the car, just paying close attention to things. I did notice the rear actuators leads were facing the front of the car but on the front...the drivers side was facing the back on the car and the pasanger side was facing the front sorta on an angle. After reading the manual, I dont think it materes as long as there is no interfearance with anything on the car in how the actuator sits, so I think I will just put the fronts both facing the rear of the car like the driver side was. I have a feeling someone was in there at one point and did not put the passenger side back on right.
But does anyone know if the system just looks for each "end of stroke" when it turns the shaft on the shock? I think I read it was a 60 degree total spin on the later versions. (mine is a 95)
So if that's the case and it just looks to see when the motor is not spinning anymore, then it really does not matter what tooth you get the shaft of the shock mated with the actuator I would think???

Before removal, I unhooked the 2 front actuators and had the wife turn the key to see how they functioned. I did get the Service Ride Control light. I assume after reading the manual, that the light was on because the actuators did not sense the right speed of movement in the motors (shock restriction) Once I put them back on the shocks and turned the key back on, the Service Ride Control light did not stay on. I did this before I removed the old shocks.
Decided to go brand new since I found then for $175 each. (only $75 more a shock than rebuilding) and now they will look brand new as well AND come with a lifetime warranty from Bilstein and not a 90 day if they were only rebuilt by Bilstein.
I cant wait to get them installed and drive this car!!!
I have had the car since last year and it's always been squirly on the road. I already put a rack in it because I thought that was my problem (and it was part of it...the rack was bad) But after removing the shocks, they were shot! Only 29K on the car but they definitely lost their charge and one would not even compress all the way? They did not look like they were leaking, but the rep at Bilstein said they will go bad with age. It does not help that the previous owner did do some road racing with it. It's also a supercharged car so he "drove" it. But the price was so right and the car is super clean not to mention it's a friggin rocket.

Super nice sunny day here and it's on jack stands

 

Why don't this work for me???

95 car...no codes prior to changing shocks, now after checking actuators with them off shocks I have codes 21,31,32,33,34
Cant get them to reset and its all back together with new shocks. I do notice the gear on the new shocks are a bit stiffer so I can maybe understand the 31,32,33,34 codes as the FSM says "actuators not moving to the initialization position within a specified time"
But I also just had the wife turn the dial when the car when running and no actuators don't move. But they move fine in start up test???
Car also seems like it rides no different in any position like it's locked in one setting due to the SRC light???

Can anyone help???

Thanks

 

ok...so somehow after a zillion tries to reset the codes it finally worked. Drove the car...system seemed to be working fine. Almost home...SRC light came back on and it seemed stuck on stiff. Only code I get now is the 21 and I cant get it to reset! Left front actuator and shock are fine. Anyone know if the gear inside the actuator sorta slide around to get itself centered on the shaft? I thought they were broke, but they spin fine in start up, and the passenger side is the same way without codes over there...

I'll have this damn system figured out one day...

Anyone have any info???

Another weird thing is I can cycle my key more than 3 times and I never get the code 23? (loss of vehicle speed signal)


Grrrrr........