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I am replacing my cap and rotor on my 96 and after I removed the rotor and the inner shell the timing disc and another disc fell out. I assume the "other disc" which is smaller goes up against the rotor but is there a right and wrong way to install the timing disc? I am assuming the part # on the disc faces out but after that I have no idea.
Your prompt responses will be greatly appreciated.
Ok I put my glasses on and I see there is only one way to put the disc on so thats good. The question then remains does the smaller disc/spacer go behind the timing disc twds the block or in front of it against the rotor cap. Also whats the trick to keep the disc on until you can get the rotor on> Thanks
Red easy not in this case the disc's are barly on as it is. I did have one screw that was just there when I took the rotor off. Any case the new MSD cap and rotor are on. The rotor and cap did have some moisture in it at one time and there was some corrosion. The motor only has 20k on it but has been siiting for a while. Thanks again, if it snows hard enough here today I will have the H2O pump on and give it a try.
Red easy not in this case the disc's are barly on as it is. I did have one screw that was just there when I took the rotor off. Any case the new MSD cap and rotor are on. The rotor and cap did have some moisture in it at one time and there was some corrosion. The motor only has 20k on it but has been siiting for a while. Thanks again, if it snows hard enough here today I will have the H2O pump on and give it a try.
You do not need to install your WP to test out your new Opti !!!!!
You don't need your Hub/balancer installed either
You don't need to have serpentine belt on....
The point I am trying to make....you can test your Opti a few minutes after you have installed it...Just need to plug in a few items. Then start your car for 10 to 30 seconds.....nothing will be hurt or damaged by doing this....
If you install your WP and button everything up and learn that you still have a problem with Opti.....You will be pizzed......
Here is what my setup looked like to test out my new Opti. All you need to hook up is your air intake/MAF connector, Coil connections, and any other electrical's you may have disconnected:
Well got the cap and rotor on, button the electrics up and gave it a try. Started right up and idled well so I shut it down after 15 secs. Added the Water Pump, the MAF etc and it started right up then after a minute or so it went to a very rough idle and rpms were up and down at 2k rpm. I shut it down checked my connections and tried it again, it ran well but after it warmed up it was hard to keep a good idle. I pulled the MAF connection and it seems to run a lot better to include the idle, no hiccups. The MAF screen is filthy so I am betting so are the sensors. Will clean them up and maybe remove the screen and see what happens. The car only has 20k on it so I am guessing its just a dirty MAF.
Don't remove the maf screen if you think this will give you more power, it won't. Just spray it real good with MAF cleaner. Be very careful not to touch or disturb the very fine filiments on the MAF resistor(or whatever it is).
I will check again for codes, before I started this I did not have any.
What is MAF cleaner, never heard of it. Will regular carb and throttle body work?
Opti's are the most trouble prone part on these cars. If you went that deep into the unit...I would have cut my losses and installed a new GM unit...be done with it.
I hope it is just a dirty MAF...something that isn't normal (112k on mine and never been cleaned). Unsure if these have a burn off circuit.
I will check again for codes, before I started this I did not have any.
What is MAF cleaner, never heard of it. Will regular carb and throttle body work?
One more thing, did you remember to reconnect your CTS sensor in your WP ? I have forgotten this a few times, although you would have seen a service engine light on your dash....