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Not sure what is out their nowadays, but I have used a Standard Abrasives kit years ago..... had everything you needed and the cartridges they provided did what I was trying to do.... but I don't know if they are still alive or not.
In fact, I think I still have it somewhere..... not sure. If I find it, you can have what you need out of it.... I won't be using them anytime too soon.
I bought a good quality porting bit when I ported my intake. It got pretty much used up. I also used some stone and sanding bits but those wear out fast. I can't remember where I ordered the bit from sorry. It was fairly expensive but cut real nice! I'll need to get another one so I'll post what I find later.
I cant imagine taking out a lot of metal with sandpaper barrell roles...
what/where is the best kit, if there is one, for porting ?
I may have to buy some long arbor carbide tools to get inside this thing.
I'll tell ya where It's called ENCO MANUFACTURING & they will sell to you I deal with em all the time ! If you want cutting tools thats it !! Just bring up enco & the prices are good !! try it !!!
found these at summit
Porting and Polishing Set, Deburr Kit, Carbide, 6 in. Bits, 1/4 in. Shank, Set of 3
The right tools you need to do porting.
Our Summit® 3-piece ferrous deburr kits are ideal for porting manifolds and cylinder heads, or for deburring and smoothing any casting. They include three carbide cutter bits for iron:
* One 3/8 in. diameter x 5/8 in. long
* One 3/8 in. diameter x 3/4 in. long
* One 1/4 in. diameter x 1/2 in. long
I bought a good quality porting bit when I ported my intake. It got pretty much used up. I also used some stone and sanding bits but those wear out fast. I can't remember where I ordered the bit from sorry. It was fairly expensive but cut real nice! I'll need to get another one so I'll post what I find later.
Def. do that I'd really like to give it a try on my stock intake I pulled off.
At Harbor Freight, you can buy a big bag of all shapes of the sandpaper rolls cheap, like 50 in a bag,, so I want to Hog and shape up top with the carbide and then blend it in close to the head / intake interface.
Yeah, Orrcz___ something posted on here and thirdgen about porting his intake. He blended the top as close to the "cross" as he could and tried to widen the tops so it still tapered down. Try to search for him on both forums, I believe he had pictures of it up there.
As for flow, if it really flows 275cfm and you really need an intake that flows more than your heads (I've heard 6-10-14% more, which for 280cfm heads is 296, 308, and 319 cfm respectively to maximize your total top end efficiency.)
Yeah, Orrcz___ something posted on here and thirdgen about porting his intake. He blended the top as close to the "cross" as he could and tried to widen the tops so it still tapered down. Try to search for him on both forums, I believe he had pictures of it up there.
As for flow, if it really flows 275cfm and you really need an intake that flows more than your heads (I've heard 6-10-14% more, which for 280cfm heads is 296, 308, and 319 cfm respectively to maximize your total top end efficiency.)
Thanks Chris, I emailed him and he sent me a pic or two, very helpful. Since I bought a new cam with more lift, and my heads flow @ .296 @.600, I figured it wold be worth the time spent to tray do maximize the package.
It is already ported to a 1206 but I will have to see how far up the tract it goes. Should be fun!
I cant imagine taking out a lot of metal with sandpaper barrell roles...
what/where is the best kit, if there is one, for porting ?
I may have to buy some long arbor carbide tools to get inside this thing.
You need a quality die grinder like a makita, i find the cheaper ones heat up way to fast and burn out .I only use the sandpaper rolls on aluminum and i have always got excellent results,I'm not a pro so when i use carbide cutters i always get a wavy finish.IMO the most important things you need are good eye protection and a breathing mask ,believe me you will be blowing this black crap and aluminum flakes out your nose for a day or two.I once got a aluminum sliver stuck in my eye ball when i was porting and had to go to the er to remove it .I spray wd40 ever few minutes when porting it keeps the sanding rolls from clogging up and keeps some of the dust down.Like i said i am not a pro but this method has always gave me excellent results.Oh ya here's another tip its not a good idea to port anything in your living room,ask me how i know
You need a quality die grinder like a makita, i find the cheaper ones heat up way to fast and burn out .I only use the sandpaper rolls on aluminum and i have always got excellent results,I'm not a pro so when i use carbide cutters i always get a wavy finish.IMO the most important things you need are good eye protection and a breathing mask ,believe me you will be blowing this black crap and aluminum flakes out your nose for a day or two.I once got a aluminum sliver stuck in my eye ball when i was porting and had to go to the er to remove it .I spray wd40 ever few minutes when porting it keeps the sanding rolls from clogging up and keeps some of the dust down.Like i said i am not a pro but this method has always gave me excellent results.Oh ya here's another tip its not a good idea to port anything in your living room,ask me how i know
I was a machinist running a Bridgeport and Lathe for 12 years, and also, I too have had a steel sliver pulled out of my eye years ago, crazy, woke up in the morning with blood coming out of my eye, the sliver was rubbing the backside of my eye lid and man, was it painful...
I have used at least 1000 barrel roles over the years but cant imagine taking 1/4, or even 1/8 of material out with them, but it has been a while.
And a tip for you as well , the family dishwasher is a great aluminum parts cleaner, just don't let the wife catch you...
Found this too, reduces the cost of expensive long shank Carbide Burs
I didnt think anybody would need to port a HSR, it already flows pretty good.
Mine is ported to a 1206 and in looking at the ports, they are ported to a 1206 quite a ways up into the tract, so I really only need to open up the top side down to the middle of the tract.
I had the intake port matched by Mike at www.cfmperformance.com and he did a great job, more than I realized until I looked at it closer this morning.
I have only seen one flow sheet and it showed 284crfm going into the plenum and out the runner, not bad.
This picture is from the guy in Florida that was part of the original effort a couple years ago to mass produce the plenums.
I think this is the one I used: # 43035A36 mcmaster.com
1/4" Shank, Single Cut, Carbide Bur, Cylindrical-Radius End, 1/2" Head Dia, 1" Length of Cut / $22.47
1/4" shank for die grinder, carbide cutter line. I liked the end tip being rounded for porting tight spots but it will wear out quickly as the cutting edge is thin there. The one inch length gives you plenty of flat cutting surface.
I used a $20 air die grinder which worked well, you need a decent air compressor though. Electric would have been nicer but they cost more and don't last as long.
I got by with just that one bit and wore it out on a single intake porting. I also used some stones and sanding rolls. It's very messy and takes a long time!