86 L98 AC Blows hot/compressor off
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,830
Likes: 147
From: Gainesville FL
86 L98 AC Blows hot/compressor off
On max AC or normal the compressor clutch never engages. I read a lot of AC posts yesterday so I checked the ac fuse ... OK. Jumpered the connector on the low pressure switch and it does turn on the compressor.
I didn't want to damage the compressor with a low charge running so I can't confirm wheter it started to blow cold again.
Last time I ran the AC was sometime in sept or oct. It worked OK then but was not super cold. I guess it may be time to take it in for a recharge. I don't even know what type of refrigerent is in it.
Thanks in advance
I didn't want to damage the compressor with a low charge running so I can't confirm wheter it started to blow cold again.
Last time I ran the AC was sometime in sept or oct. It worked OK then but was not super cold. I guess it may be time to take it in for a recharge. I don't even know what type of refrigerent is in it.
Thanks in advance
Racer
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 374
Likes: 4
From: Nevada Missouri
It will take R-12. My 86 AC needed a charge last year and I was able to do it with R-12 Freeze that you can get at local auto parts. Unless you have a license you can not but regular R-12 but R-12 freeze works just fine. 
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 7,839
Likes: 22
From: San Diego, Ca
Smart not to run it without gas because gas carrys the Lube.
You should find out where it went before you charge it back up. Look for obvious signs of leakage at the fittings, on the hood above the compressor and for any abrasions on the hoses (especially if you live where rodents can get into the engine compartment). If you don't see anything, I'd either go to an a/c shop for a leak test (Poop Boys always advertises a 29.95 special) or get yourself a vacuum pump to see if it will hold a vacuum.
You should find out where it went before you charge it back up. Look for obvious signs of leakage at the fittings, on the hood above the compressor and for any abrasions on the hoses (especially if you live where rodents can get into the engine compartment). If you don't see anything, I'd either go to an a/c shop for a leak test (Poop Boys always advertises a 29.95 special) or get yourself a vacuum pump to see if it will hold a vacuum.
Advanced
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
From: Albuquerque New Mexico
On max AC or normal the compressor clutch never engages. I read a lot of AC posts yesterday so I checked the ac fuse ... OK. Jumpered the connector on the low pressure switch and it does turn on the compressor.
I didn't want to damage the compressor with a low charge running so I can't confirm wheter it started to blow cold again.
Last time I ran the AC was sometime in sept or oct. It worked OK then but was not super cold. I guess it may be time to take it in for a recharge. I don't even know what type of refrigerent is in it.
Thanks in advance
I didn't want to damage the compressor with a low charge running so I can't confirm wheter it started to blow cold again.
Last time I ran the AC was sometime in sept or oct. It worked OK then but was not super cold. I guess it may be time to take it in for a recharge. I don't even know what type of refrigerent is in it.
Thanks in advance
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 7,839
Likes: 22
From: San Diego, Ca
And what - have the compressor seize because there isn't enough oil?
Despite what some may claim, you can't mix gases - These socalled drop-ins (and Freeze 12 is 80% R134) assume an empty system. Mix unlike gases together and you can trip the high pressure limit, or if that fails blow a hole in the hood.
Reputable shops don't charge an arm and leg to leak check - they want the Big Bucks to fix it right. And most 20 plus year old cars need quite a bit to make it right. Your goal, assuming you have the tools and knowledge to fix it, is to find out what it needs. You can then price components at any of the Discounters, but a complete rebuild (on your own and that's what it will need if it throws a bunch of metal into the System) will cost somewhere in the neighborhood of $800 and up (assuming it doesn't also need a new hood).
Despite what some may claim, you can't mix gases - These socalled drop-ins (and Freeze 12 is 80% R134) assume an empty system. Mix unlike gases together and you can trip the high pressure limit, or if that fails blow a hole in the hood.
Reputable shops don't charge an arm and leg to leak check - they want the Big Bucks to fix it right. And most 20 plus year old cars need quite a bit to make it right. Your goal, assuming you have the tools and knowledge to fix it, is to find out what it needs. You can then price components at any of the Discounters, but a complete rebuild (on your own and that's what it will need if it throws a bunch of metal into the System) will cost somewhere in the neighborhood of $800 and up (assuming it doesn't also need a new hood).
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,830
Likes: 147
From: Gainesville FL
Smart not to run it without gas because gas carrys the Lube.
You should find out where it went before you charge it back up. Look for obvious signs of leakage at the fittings, on the hood above the compressor and for any abrasions on the hoses (especially if you live where rodents can get into the engine compartment). If you don't see anything, I'd either go to an a/c shop for a leak test (Poop Boys always advertises a 29.95 special) or get yourself a vacuum pump to see if it will hold a vacuum.
You should find out where it went before you charge it back up. Look for obvious signs of leakage at the fittings, on the hood above the compressor and for any abrasions on the hoses (especially if you live where rodents can get into the engine compartment). If you don't see anything, I'd either go to an a/c shop for a leak test (Poop Boys always advertises a 29.95 special) or get yourself a vacuum pump to see if it will hold a vacuum.
You were right. the was a big crack on the plastic fitting on the fat hose that goes to the compessor. The nut connects to the engine side of the round cylindrical silver thing. It looks like one large assy that connects to the highpressure hose too... wish I had pics. It looks like an expensive part.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 7,839
Likes: 22
From: San Diego, Ca
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 196
Likes: 3
Check for parts at this web site. I have purchased there before, good prices and service.
www.aircondition.com
www.aircondition.com
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,830
Likes: 147
From: Gainesville FL
Thanks
Main hose for my Year is/was 100 Bucks - look yours up at www.acdelco.com
http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?p...4&dept_id=1189
Thanks for all the help
Racer
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 289
Likes: 3
From: new york
I have a similar issue in my 1989 it blows semi cold air for a few minutes then it gets hot. My car is still running freon. Question #1 does it seem like I have a leak since it blows semi cold for a few minutes? The compressor seems like it is running, I turned on the AC and popped open the hood I can hear it. I turn the AC off and the engine gets quit.
Assuming there is no leaks. What is the process to convert to 134, I don't want to go freeze12 and I just can't find freon. Of what I know I have to bleed the system and change the accumulator, what else needs to be changed?
Any input or ideas would be greatly appreciated. I live in Florida and it's only a month away before I really need my AC.
Ron
Guno89@yahoo.com
Assuming there is no leaks. What is the process to convert to 134, I don't want to go freeze12 and I just can't find freon. Of what I know I have to bleed the system and change the accumulator, what else needs to be changed?
Any input or ideas would be greatly appreciated. I live in Florida and it's only a month away before I really need my AC.
Ron
Guno89@yahoo.com
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,830
Likes: 147
From: Gainesville FL
I have a similar issue in my 1989 it blows semi cold air for a few minutes then it gets hot. My car is still running freon. Question #1 does it seem like I have a leak since it blows semi cold for a few minutes? The compressor seems like it is running, I turned on the AC and popped open the hood I can hear it. I turn the AC off and the engine gets quit.
Assuming there is no leaks. What is the process to convert to 134, I don't want to go freeze12 and I just can't find freon. Of what I know I have to bleed the system and change the accumulator, what else needs to be changed?
Any input or ideas would be greatly appreciated. I live in Florida and it's only a month away before I really need my AC.
Ron
Guno89@yahoo.com
Assuming there is no leaks. What is the process to convert to 134, I don't want to go freeze12 and I just can't find freon. Of what I know I have to bleed the system and change the accumulator, what else needs to be changed?
Any input or ideas would be greatly appreciated. I live in Florida and it's only a month away before I really need my AC.
Ron
Guno89@yahoo.com
From what I've read R12 is still available and the price has come way down. Your engine quitting when you turn off the AC is not right
and I'm quite sure you shouldn't run the systems on a low charge. I'd like to know about the freeze12 and r134 conversion too.Robert
Racer
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 289
Likes: 3
From: new york
Ron;
From what I've read R12 is still available and the price has come way down. Your engine quitting when you turn off the AC is not right and I'm quite sure you shouldn't run the systems on a low charge. I'd like to know about the freeze12 and r134 conversion too.
Robert
From what I've read R12 is still available and the price has come way down. Your engine quitting when you turn off the AC is not right
and I'm quite sure you shouldn't run the systems on a low charge. I'd like to know about the freeze12 and r134 conversion too.Robert
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 7,839
Likes: 22
From: San Diego, Ca
Compressor shouldn't run if there's no gas. Lift the hood and observe what's going on. Assuming the compressor is engaged, check the upper/big line exiting the Evaporator Case (right hand side of Firewall) for ice. If none, feel that line where it exits the case and also feel the smaller or lower line right where it enters the Case (and only at this point because anything before that can be hot enough to burn you). Both should be cool and lower than ambient. If they are - and/or the Big Line is sweating - and the compressor is running, you've got enough gas to make cold air. If you don't have any of these things, or if the compressor is cycling (turning) on and off, it's probably low. You need to hookup a manifold gage set to find out, but post what you feel and see.
Racer
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 289
Likes: 3
From: new york
Compressor shouldn't run if there's no gas. Lift the hood and observe what's going on. Assuming the compressor is engaged, check the upper/big line exiting the Evaporator Case (right hand side of Firewall) for ice. If none, feel that line where it exits the case and also feel the smaller or lower line right where it enters the Case (and only at this point because anything before that can be hot enough to burn you). Both should be cool and lower than ambient. If they are - and/or the Big Line is sweating - and the compressor is running, you've got enough gas to make cold air. If you don't have any of these things, or if the compressor is cycling (turning) on and off, it's probably low. You need to hookup a manifold gage set to find out, but post what you feel and see.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 7,839
Likes: 22
From: San Diego, Ca
System is closed and the only way for it to get low is for it to leak out. All systems leak - the OEM's have never been able to come up with mobile system that doesn't - but it takes awhile - like well pass the warranty for allmost everything that's been made in the last 30 years. Alot seem to have problems around 7 to 10 years, though my personal cars allways crap out earlier! GM's seem to show up in the Evaporator and the best way to pinpoint that leak is with an electronic leak detector. As I've posted, good shops either leak check for free or charge less than 50 Bucks because if they get to replace the Evaporator the tab will run $800 to maybe $1000. That's why alot of old a/c systems don't get fixed - it costs more than the car is worth.
Racer
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 289
Likes: 3
From: new york
System is closed and the only way for it to get low is for it to leak out. All systems leak - the OEM's have never been able to come up with mobile system that doesn't - but it takes awhile - like well pass the warranty for allmost everything that's been made in the last 30 years. Alot seem to have problems around 7 to 10 years, though my personal cars allways crap out earlier! GM's seem to show up in the Evaporator and the best way to pinpoint that leak is with an electronic leak detector. As I've posted, good shops either leak check for free or charge less than 50 Bucks because if they get to replace the Evaporator the tab will run $800 to maybe $1000. That's why alot of old a/c systems don't get fixed - it costs more than the car is worth.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,830
Likes: 147
From: Gainesville FL
I'm debating whether to buy the compressor hoses and replace them myself. Methinks I should bring it in to a shop and have the vacuum check and leak check first ... at least I can have whatever freon is left in it recovered properly. That way if there are more leaks I'll at least have an idea of what I'm getting into first.
I'm praying that my evoporator and condensor cores are still leakfree and the only problem is this cracked nut on the condensor hose. I'd like to get out of this under $250 and already the hoses are $120.
I'm praying that my evoporator and condensor cores are still leakfree and the only problem is this cracked nut on the condensor hose. I'd like to get out of this under $250 and already the hoses are $120.
