Priming the engine with intake on?
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 5,141
Likes: 7
From: Metairie Louisiana
Priming the engine with intake on?
I'm finishing up my cam install this weekend. I already installed my intake without priming the engine at the oil drive stub.
I've read that you can pack the oil pump with assembly lube and fill the oil filter with oil. Then pull the harness off the coil and turn it over a few times. Is this a sufficient alternative to prime the engine? I picked up a tube of CNC engine assembly lube. If this will work it will save me having to pick up the priming tool and pulling off the intake again.
Thanks
I've read that you can pack the oil pump with assembly lube and fill the oil filter with oil. Then pull the harness off the coil and turn it over a few times. Is this a sufficient alternative to prime the engine? I picked up a tube of CNC engine assembly lube. If this will work it will save me having to pick up the priming tool and pulling off the intake again.
Thanks
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Akron Ohio
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When I did my cam swap I put the engine back together like normal, filled with oil and unplugged the battery wire from the coil. Then I just cranked the engine like I was trying to start it and let the oil pump do its job. I would crank for about 15-20 seconds and stop, then crank again. I did that a couple times to make sure everything was lubed. When I was done I plugged the battery back in and fired it up. No issues. 
Racer
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 284
Likes: 2
From: Burton Texas
I have a junk distributor without a cam gear on the bottom of the shaft, and with a 3/8" nut welded to the top of the shaft. To prime, I drop this distributor into the engine and turn the shaft with a speed wrench/universal/9/16" socket.
When the turning gets tough, it's primed.
It works great on L-98 and older engines, don't know about LT engines.
When the turning gets tough, it's primed.
It works great on L-98 and older engines, don't know about LT engines.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 15,344
Likes: 4,009
From: Texas
I have a junk distributor without a cam gear on the bottom of the shaft, and with a 3/8" nut welded to the top of the shaft. To prime, I drop this distributor into the engine and turn the shaft with a speed wrench/universal/9/16" socket.
When the turning gets tough, it's primed.
It works great on L-98 and older engines, don't know about LT engines.
When the turning gets tough, it's primed.
It works great on L-98 and older engines, don't know about LT engines.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 17,699
Likes: 1,667
From: moraga ca
When I did my cam swap I put the engine back together like normal, filled with oil and unplugged the battery wire from the coil. Then I just cranked the engine like I was trying to start it and let the oil pump do its job. I would crank for about 15-20 seconds and stop, then crank again. I did that a couple times to make sure everything was lubed. When I was done I plugged the battery back in and fired it up. No issues.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 5,141
Likes: 7
From: Metairie Louisiana
Any ideas on keeping the flexplate from turning while reinstalling the hub? I have a screwdriver jammed in the teeth held against the ground right now. I was going to give that a try.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 10,641
Likes: 13
From: Slidell Louisiana
I would have loaned you my primer too. You lubed the cam on install (correct?) and your using the stock shortblock (right) I'd pour oil over the valve train (during the initial oil fill) and start the sucker, since the intake is already installed.
Good luck
Mike
Last edited by aboatguy; Mar 14, 2009 at 10:34 AM.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 9,036
Likes: 13
From: Edmonton AB
assembly lube (or petroleum jelly) will help the pump to prime when
it begins to turn. My vote is that it is NOT necessary to PACK the
housing - all that is required is enough to provide a greater seal
between the teeth, housing and ends than would exist with a dry
pump. Suction will be established more promptly.
Pre-filling the filter (once the engine is installed) is always a benefit to
developing pressure faster.
The LTx engine can be primed externally through a oil temperature or
pressure sender port. One method is to use an accumulator such as
those sold by Canton, Moroso, or possibly something from Habour
Freight. Another method is to use compressed air to pressurize oil
from a sealed container through a port into the oil gallery. A third
method is to use an external pump to pass fluid from a reservoir into
the gallery. There may be other possiblities.
If external priming is unattractive, my vote is that countless engines
have been fired without such measures. Make sure that everything
else is ready to ensure minimal cranking. Spin with the ignition & fuel
disabled until pressure is seen on the gauge. Activate ign/fuel and
go.
.
