How to remove front shocks?
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,614
Likes: 163
From: Davis CA
How to remove front shocks?
I have an 86 with Bilstein shocks and cannot loosen the upper nut. How the heck are you supposed to keep the shaft from turning? I have nothing that fits the shaft.
The new shock shaft has an allen wrench fitting in the top of the shaft. If the old one also has the allen fitting, there is no way to get a standard allen wrench on with the space allowed. Am I supposed to drill a hole through the shields?
I've read about people who claim to spend 15 minutes per wheel doing this task but I have spent well over 15 minutes trying to find a tool to help.
The new shock shaft has an allen wrench fitting in the top of the shaft. If the old one also has the allen fitting, there is no way to get a standard allen wrench on with the space allowed. Am I supposed to drill a hole through the shields?
I've read about people who claim to spend 15 minutes per wheel doing this task but I have spent well over 15 minutes trying to find a tool to help.
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 34,873
Likes: 487
From: Lacey WA RVN 68-69
NCM Sinkhole Donor
You can drill a small hole in the plastic shield and you will probably have to do that when you install the new shock anyway. IIRC, the allen wrench (maybe TORX??) is pretty small and it will take some effort to hold a small wrench in place. If you have a set of Allen sockets (or TORX sockets), that will help much better with holding the sahft in place.
For the old shock, you can use vise-grips to hold the rod as long as you grip above the threads. Put some penetrating oil on the top of the nut to make removal easier. Sometimes those nuts can get rust on the threads and are a biotch to remove.
For the old shock, you can use vise-grips to hold the rod as long as you grip above the threads. Put some penetrating oil on the top of the nut to make removal easier. Sometimes those nuts can get rust on the threads and are a biotch to remove.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,858
Likes: 7
From: Santa Maria CA
Does holding the upper half of the shock keep it from spinning. If so, throw a folded rag over it and hold it with vice grip pliers and remove the nut from the side with an opened end wrench. If not, needle nose vice grips on the top of the shaft from the side might work.
I did mine years ago, and honestly cannot remember how I did it. But there was no magic to it. The upper nut does not have a very tight torque spec.
I did mine years ago, and honestly cannot remember how I did it. But there was no magic to it. The upper nut does not have a very tight torque spec.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 3,284
Likes: 51
From: Jacksonville, FL
St. Jude Donor '08 thru '26
I'm not sure.....
....but don't the inner wheel house liners come off? On my 90 they are three sections, and to do the r&r on the shocks I removwed the center panel of the three which gave a straight shot at the top of the shock.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,614
Likes: 163
From: Davis CA
I was hoping that there was a short cut that I was missing because this job it is offered as one of the easier parts replacements and has been easy on most of the cars I have owned.
I can remove the shield but on my 86 it looks like a dozen or more bolts per side, including some holding ac lines in place (rt side). I recall it being easier on the 88 I owned but that was a few years ago.
Holding the rod with grips on the threads might work but it is destructive and won't help much with the install.
Just FYI. Preventing the upper section of the shock from turning doesn't prevent the rod from turning.
Drilling a hole through the shield sounds like the most efficient strategy and could be plugged if another hole through the shield bothered me.
I can remove the shield but on my 86 it looks like a dozen or more bolts per side, including some holding ac lines in place (rt side). I recall it being easier on the 88 I owned but that was a few years ago.
Holding the rod with grips on the threads might work but it is destructive and won't help much with the install.
Just FYI. Preventing the upper section of the shock from turning doesn't prevent the rod from turning.
Drilling a hole through the shield sounds like the most efficient strategy and could be plugged if another hole through the shield bothered me.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 6,050
Likes: 147
From: Phoenix AZ
2021 C4 of the Year - Modified Finalist
Um, Fellas,
Don't make this guy's life any harder.
The top of the shock shaft is stamped down to be able to use a 1/4 inch wrench.
Use the open end wrench on the nut to remove the shock, and with your other hand, hold the shock shaft from turning with a 1/4 inch open end wrench.
Don't make this guy's life any harder.
The top of the shock shaft is stamped down to be able to use a 1/4 inch wrench.
Use the open end wrench on the nut to remove the shock, and with your other hand, hold the shock shaft from turning with a 1/4 inch open end wrench.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 2,269
Likes: 142
From: Ottawa Ontario
Um, Fellas,
Don't make this guy's life any harder.
The top of the shock shaft is stamped down to be able to use a 1/4 inch wrench.
Use the open end wrench on the nut to remove the shock, and with your other hand, hold the shock shaft from turning with a 1/4 inch open end wrench.
Don't make this guy's life any harder.
The top of the shock shaft is stamped down to be able to use a 1/4 inch wrench.
Use the open end wrench on the nut to remove the shock, and with your other hand, hold the shock shaft from turning with a 1/4 inch open end wrench.
That's exactly how I did the originals on my 96 last year. The replacement Bilsteins have the allen key opening on top.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,614
Likes: 163
From: Davis CA
All done. Thanks for the advice.
I can verify that the top of the original shock is shaped for the 1/4 inch wrench, not the nice allen fitting of the replacement. So, splash shields have to come off in front. When you have the shields off, its a typical replacement with several options for removing the top nut.
With rear wheels off, the back shocks are easy. When refitting the new rear shock, install the bottom first and then fit the top. Judicious use of a floor or bottle jack makes it a fairly easy alignment job. An 18 mm socket and breaker bar were easily enough to loosen the rear nuts on my car after they sat for a day with PB buster -- didn't try them before though.
I would recommend that you plan for 4 hours including putting the car on stands but I didn't watch the clock.
I can verify that the top of the original shock is shaped for the 1/4 inch wrench, not the nice allen fitting of the replacement. So, splash shields have to come off in front. When you have the shields off, its a typical replacement with several options for removing the top nut.
With rear wheels off, the back shocks are easy. When refitting the new rear shock, install the bottom first and then fit the top. Judicious use of a floor or bottle jack makes it a fairly easy alignment job. An 18 mm socket and breaker bar were easily enough to loosen the rear nuts on my car after they sat for a day with PB buster -- didn't try them before though.
I would recommend that you plan for 4 hours including putting the car on stands but I didn't watch the clock.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 2,753
Likes: 15
From: backwoods upstate ny
20 min, tops
use a 'nut splitter' (fits around the nut, tighten wedge driver bolt till the nut splits, don't tighten after it splits) to split the nut on one flat.
turn the nut/shock 180* and split the nut again, on its opp side .
push the nut "halves' off to each side.
shock can be recycled, nut is toast.
