C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

How to remove front shocks?

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Old Mar 14, 2009 | 07:06 PM
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Default How to remove front shocks?

I have an 86 with Bilstein shocks and cannot loosen the upper nut. How the heck are you supposed to keep the shaft from turning? I have nothing that fits the shaft.

The new shock shaft has an allen wrench fitting in the top of the shaft. If the old one also has the allen fitting, there is no way to get a standard allen wrench on with the space allowed. Am I supposed to drill a hole through the shields?

I've read about people who claim to spend 15 minutes per wheel doing this task but I have spent well over 15 minutes trying to find a tool to help.
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Old Mar 14, 2009 | 07:32 PM
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You can drill a small hole in the plastic shield and you will probably have to do that when you install the new shock anyway. IIRC, the allen wrench (maybe TORX??) is pretty small and it will take some effort to hold a small wrench in place. If you have a set of Allen sockets (or TORX sockets), that will help much better with holding the sahft in place.

For the old shock, you can use vise-grips to hold the rod as long as you grip above the threads. Put some penetrating oil on the top of the nut to make removal easier. Sometimes those nuts can get rust on the threads and are a biotch to remove.
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Old Mar 14, 2009 | 08:17 PM
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impact gun, and spin it off.
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Old Mar 14, 2009 | 09:04 PM
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Do you mean use an impact gun after drilling a hole so that you can access the top nut?
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Old Mar 14, 2009 | 09:33 PM
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One of my fronts striped and I had to use an angle grinder to cut through the shaft.
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Old Mar 14, 2009 | 10:06 PM
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Does holding the upper half of the shock keep it from spinning. If so, throw a folded rag over it and hold it with vice grip pliers and remove the nut from the side with an opened end wrench. If not, needle nose vice grips on the top of the shaft from the side might work.

I did mine years ago, and honestly cannot remember how I did it. But there was no magic to it. The upper nut does not have a very tight torque spec.
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Old Mar 14, 2009 | 10:55 PM
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maybe you should turn this task over to you wife or girl friend.
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Old Mar 15, 2009 | 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Road Agent
maybe you should turn this task over to you wife or girl friend.
Ouch
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Old Mar 15, 2009 | 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Road Agent
maybe you should turn this task over to you wife or girl friend.
That might be a nice view from the rear! LOL
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Old Mar 15, 2009 | 09:38 AM
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....but don't the inner wheel house liners come off? On my 90 they are three sections, and to do the r&r on the shocks I removwed the center panel of the three which gave a straight shot at the top of the shock.

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Old Mar 15, 2009 | 11:31 AM
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I was hoping that there was a short cut that I was missing because this job it is offered as one of the easier parts replacements and has been easy on most of the cars I have owned.

I can remove the shield but on my 86 it looks like a dozen or more bolts per side, including some holding ac lines in place (rt side). I recall it being easier on the 88 I owned but that was a few years ago.

Holding the rod with grips on the threads might work but it is destructive and won't help much with the install.

Just FYI. Preventing the upper section of the shock from turning doesn't prevent the rod from turning.

Drilling a hole through the shield sounds like the most efficient strategy and could be plugged if another hole through the shield bothered me.
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Old Mar 15, 2009 | 11:35 AM
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How about a shock shaft socket?
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Old Mar 15, 2009 | 02:40 PM
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Um, Fellas,
Don't make this guy's life any harder.

The top of the shock shaft is stamped down to be able to use a 1/4 inch wrench.
Use the open end wrench on the nut to remove the shock, and with your other hand, hold the shock shaft from turning with a 1/4 inch open end wrench.
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Old Mar 15, 2009 | 04:58 PM
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The socket is easier....about $5.
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Old Mar 15, 2009 | 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by coupeguy2001
Um, Fellas,
Don't make this guy's life any harder.

The top of the shock shaft is stamped down to be able to use a 1/4 inch wrench.
Use the open end wrench on the nut to remove the shock, and with your other hand, hold the shock shaft from turning with a 1/4 inch open end wrench.
That's exactly how I did the originals on my 96 last year. The replacement Bilsteins have the allen key opening on top.
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Old Mar 15, 2009 | 05:55 PM
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All done. Thanks for the advice.

I can verify that the top of the original shock is shaped for the 1/4 inch wrench, not the nice allen fitting of the replacement. So, splash shields have to come off in front. When you have the shields off, its a typical replacement with several options for removing the top nut.

With rear wheels off, the back shocks are easy. When refitting the new rear shock, install the bottom first and then fit the top. Judicious use of a floor or bottle jack makes it a fairly easy alignment job. An 18 mm socket and breaker bar were easily enough to loosen the rear nuts on my car after they sat for a day with PB buster -- didn't try them before though.

I would recommend that you plan for 4 hours including putting the car on stands but I didn't watch the clock.
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Old Mar 15, 2009 | 07:27 PM
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Default 20 min, tops

Originally Posted by Chatman
cannot loosen the upper nut. How the heck are you supposed to keep the shaft from turning?
remove the dust shield.
use a 'nut splitter' (fits around the nut, tighten wedge driver bolt till the nut splits, don't tighten after it splits) to split the nut on one flat.
turn the nut/shock 180* and split the nut again, on its opp side .
push the nut "halves' off to each side.

shock can be recycled, nut is toast.
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