C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

92 c4 damper removal

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Old Mar 14, 2009 | 08:07 PM
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Default 92 c4 damper removal

Replacing opti, having trouble removing damper. Removed 3 bolts to hub,(center crank bolt still installed),used pb blaster, lightly tapped damper,(rotated 1/2 turn and tapped again,did this 5 or so times) without any movement. Afraid to hit too hard and damage damper. Will the kent-moore j 39046 remove it in this tight area? Any other ideas? Thanks.
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Old Mar 14, 2009 | 08:52 PM
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No, the Kent-Moore tool is for the hub R&R. Get under the car,get something somewhat soft like a piece of wood and give it a few hard whacks forward!! It will come off.
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Old Mar 14, 2009 | 09:04 PM
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But make sure that you put the piece of wood on the inside portion of the pully/balancer, as they are a 2 piece design held together by a large rubber gasket. If you pound the outside of the balancer, you will distort the rubber gasket and have a wobbly balancer. Then you will have destroyed it and have to replace it. Hit it on the inside and no damage will occur. You can give it some good hefty whacks using a hand sledge. Rotate the crank after each 2 or 3 whacks. It will come off.




Last edited by MikeC4; Mar 14, 2009 at 10:00 PM.
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Old Mar 15, 2009 | 12:35 PM
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I,ll try that from underside, will let you know how it goes. Thanks for the advice.
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Old Mar 15, 2009 | 01:10 PM
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Use a puller, it threads into the three holes and gently pushes it out without damaging anything and its easy to boot. They're cheap and easy to find at any autoparts store, maybe someone close by will let you borrow theirs.
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Old Mar 15, 2009 | 01:16 PM
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Use paint and mark where the dampner is and the crankshaft. Also, use a hammer and hit around the center of the dampner. That will help break the seal, you can also leave the belt on and tap the key.

Good luck!!
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Old Mar 15, 2009 | 04:55 PM
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You dont need a puller or anything. Loosen the bolts so theres a slight gap between the head of the bolt and the damper and go fire the car up for 2 seconds. the vibration will loosen it right up. then just loosen the bolts and slide it off
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Old Mar 16, 2009 | 08:52 PM
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I got damper off from under car with wood and hammer on inner part of damper...took some good blows to break it loose. Thanks guys for your advice. I marked damper before removing to reference when assembling, but it looks like there is an arrow cast into damper and into hub for alignment. Is this correct?
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Old Mar 16, 2009 | 09:38 PM
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It will only go back on one way.
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Old Mar 16, 2009 | 09:55 PM
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The damper is not keyed to hub, so it looks like it will go on 3 different ways,(3 bolts holding damper to hub) if not referenced when removed.
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Old Mar 16, 2009 | 09:58 PM
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Nope, just one way. The bolt holes are not evenly spaced.
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Old Mar 16, 2009 | 10:37 PM
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Originally Posted by STL94LT1
Nope, just one way. The bolt holes are not evenly spaced.
No, the dampner is evenly spaced. Check the FSM, it will tell you, at least on LT1's.
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Old Mar 16, 2009 | 10:57 PM
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three letters...TDC

Mark it with liquid paper or silver sharpie
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Old Mar 16, 2009 | 11:39 PM
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Originally Posted by bee674
I got damper off from under car with wood and hammer on inner part of damper...took some good blows to break it loose. Thanks guys for your advice. I marked damper before removing to reference when assembling, but it looks like there is an arrow cast into damper and into hub for alignment. Is this correct?
You are correct, align the arrow on the pully/balancer to the raised bump or "arrow" on the hub as seen in attached pic. Be sure to put antiseize on the inside perimeter of the pully/balancer for future owner.



Also, I have read a lot of confilicting advice above. The LT1 Hub is NOT keyed, period. The 3 attaching holes in the pully/balancer form a perfect triangle, so it can be put on incorrectly.

Last edited by MikeC4; Mar 16, 2009 at 11:45 PM.
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Old Mar 16, 2009 | 11:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Randy93
No, the dampner is evenly spaced. Check the FSM, it will tell you, at least on LT1's.
OK, then the hub is not. Because the dampner will only go back on one way.

Anyone will to put their money where there mouth is saying it will go on more than one way?
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Old Mar 16, 2009 | 11:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Randy93
No, the dampner is evenly spaced. Check the FSM, it will tell you, at least on LT1's.
No it will only fit one way the holes ARE offset
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Old Mar 17, 2009 | 12:00 AM
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Originally Posted by STL94LT1
OK, then the hub is not. Because the dampner will only go back on one way.

Anyone will to put their money where there mouth is saying it will go on more than one way?
I WILL !!

(I just won't guarantee that I can get all 3 bolts threaded)

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Old Mar 17, 2009 | 12:00 AM
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Originally Posted by STL94LT1
OK, then the hub is not. Because the dampner will only go back on one way.

Anyone will to put their money where there mouth is saying it will go on more than one way?
You and I are correct
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