C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Question on Dana 36 Gears

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Old Mar 17, 2009 | 04:25 PM
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I just bought this setup last night. The seller told me it was for a Dana 36. The gears are suppose to be 3.73:1. This unit was rebuilt with new gears and a rebuild kit in 1999 and never installed. The numbers on the gear are G05-878373C 41-11 USA F5 .

1. Does the left and right yoke just slide in?

2. Should I be worried at all about this sitting for 10 years?


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Old Mar 17, 2009 | 04:44 PM
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Divide the ring gear teeth (41) by the pinion teeth (11) for your gear ratio. ( it is 3.73) It is possible for bearings to pit when sitting if not lubricated, but tear down is the only way to be certain.
The side yokes do just slide in but are held by a selective retaining ring that determines the end play, you should have a selection of them when you install the yokes so you can measure and set it correctly.
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Old Mar 17, 2009 | 04:48 PM
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The bearings look to be greased... all that I can see. I couldn't pass up this deal last night. The guy wanted $200.00 obo. When I saw the new gears I didn't even haggle with him.
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Old Mar 17, 2009 | 05:05 PM
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Sounds like a good deal but the gears are pretty steep for an L98, most guys prefer 3.07. Best of luck with them, hope they work out for you.
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Old Mar 17, 2009 | 07:03 PM
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Looks like a good deal for $200. If they work, you've saved hundreds, if not, your only out a couple. I was very happy with 3.73s with a 700r4 on the street.
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Old Mar 17, 2009 | 08:31 PM
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I'd say with the general appearance of the case it needs to have bearings replaced! The case is "rusted" and the finish on the bearings is substantially more fragile than just the cast case. Humidity and dampness were likely hard on it. I would say to confirm that you could remove the case from the housing and make a decision based on what you find there! Inspect the carrier bearings.

If it were stored indoors in a "home" environment it could be fine BUT then again?

You could maybe fill the rear "suspended" as it stands with "clear" kerosene to a level above the pinion, rotate the ring and pinion by hand many, many, many times and dump the kerosene back into light colored or clear container. What does the kerosene look like? Any discoloration you might as well do all the bearings, buy a new crush sleeve and pinion nut!

You "could also" decide by the old "reliable"! "The coin toss"!
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Old Mar 17, 2009 | 08:51 PM
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Thanks for the replies. Would this ratio be better if run with a torque converter? Before I purchased this I was going to buy a 2400rpm converter.
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Old Mar 17, 2009 | 11:29 PM
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Originally Posted by LKoncar
Thanks for the replies. Would this ratio be better if run with a torque converter? Before I purchased this I was going to buy a 2400rpm converter.

It really depends on what you use the car for. If you're just looking for a stop light warrior around town then the 3.73s will be great for you and I'd probably keep your stock converter. If you're looking to take the car to the drag strip then the 3.73s are way too steep for a relatively stock L98. For the strip I'd go with 3.07s and 2500 stall TC.
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by TA
It really depends on what you use the car for. If you're just looking for a stop light warrior around town then the 3.73s will be great for you and I'd probably keep your stock converter. If you're looking to take the car to the drag strip then the 3.73s are way too steep for a relatively stock L98. For the strip I'd go with 3.07s and 2500 stall TC.
I would think it would be the other way around. For the strip, you want maximum acceleration and are not concerned about economy or freeway rpm. Go with the steeper gearset. For all around cruising, you would want the 3.07s. When my car was a street/strip car, I went with a 3.73 and was very happy. The converter was relatively tight (footbrake at 2100), and the car would launch hard and was a great cruiser. Now the car is a strip only car, I am running 4.30s and still with a tight converter (2100 foot brake) have 1.42 60s and run 10.60s. Willie
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 03:44 PM
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by 383vett
I would think it would be the other way around. For the strip, you want maximum acceleration and are not concerned about economy or freeway rpm. Go with the steeper gearset. For all around cruising, you would want the 3.07s. When my car was a street/strip car, I went with a 3.73 and was very happy. The converter was relatively tight (footbrake at 2100), and the car would launch hard and was a great cruiser. Now the car is a strip only car, I am running 4.30s and still with a tight converter (2100 foot brake) have 1.42 60s and run 10.60s. Willie
I know what you're saying and I agree with you in theory, but an L98 has a very low peaking power band as compared to many cars (LT1s, LS1s, etc). Steep gears get an L98 out of its power band way too quick. If you take a stock (or lightly modded) L98 with 3.07s and swap in 3.73s the car will turn a slower ET. The 60' might improve a bit, but you'll lose any gain, plus some, on the other end. There have been a few guys who have wrung every last bit of ET out of TPI cars and this has been the findings

What works on your highly modded 406 (or 383) might not hold true on a nearly stock L98 with a pathetic power band.
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Old Mar 19, 2009 | 12:11 AM
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Originally Posted by TA
I know what you're saying and I agree with you in theory, but an L98 has a very low peaking power band as compared to many cars (LT1s, LS1s, etc). Steep gears get an L98 out of its power band way too quick. If you take a stock (or lightly modded) L98 with 3.07s and swap in 3.73s the car will turn a slower ET. The 60' might improve a bit, but you'll lose any gain, plus some, on the other end. There have been a few guys who have wrung every last bit of ET out of TPI cars and this has been the findings

What works on your highly modded 406 (or 383) might not hold true on a nearly stock L98 with a pathetic power band.
That makes sense.
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Old Mar 20, 2009 | 03:39 AM
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Originally Posted by toptechx6
Divide the ring gear teeth (41) by the pinion teeth (11) for your gear ratio. ( it is 3.73) It is possible for bearings to pit when sitting if not lubricated, but tear down is the only way to be certain.
The side yokes do just slide in but are held by a selective retaining ring that determines the end play, you should have a selection of them when you install the yokes so you can measure and set it correctly.
Selective retaining ring,how do I work out which one I need???
Im about to fit a rebuild 3.07 pumpkin in my 89,I'm using the side yokes from my current 2.59.I thought I could just use the 2.59 retaining rings(obviously not):,I did not realise that the yokes had to be "set up.
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Old Mar 20, 2009 | 08:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Qiken
Selective retaining ring,how do I work out which one I need???
Im about to fit a rebuild 3.07 pumpkin in my 89,I'm using the side yokes from my current 2.59.I thought I could just use the 2.59 retaining rings(obviously not):,I did not realise that the yokes had to be "set up.
Install your yokes in the 3.07 pumpkin with the existing snap rings, set up a dial indicator to measure the end play, if it is within specs you are good to go, if not choose a different ring based on the chart. You should also know that the snap rings are very strong so you will need a good set of 90* angle pliers to remove and install them.


Get a Factory Service Manual.
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Old Jun 14, 2009 | 01:54 PM
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^^The Snap ring from hell that holds the shaft in place is sized and color coded???

Does that color stay in place???

If mine have no colors visible, should I assume they are Plain...050/1.27????
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Old Jun 14, 2009 | 02:51 PM
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I wouldn't assume that! Measure them to confirm!!
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Old Jun 14, 2009 | 03:02 PM
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OK, Had to go get button batteries for my digital caliper (very cool but if the batt is dead...worthless)

And yup, the size is .0505 / 1.29
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Old Jun 15, 2009 | 11:18 AM
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Monday morning crew???
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