C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Bleeding Clutch Questions

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Old Mar 19, 2009 | 08:36 PM
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Default Bleeding Clutch Questions

Hey guys I'm going to bleed my clutch this weekend and had a question or two if any of you knew.

My car is a 95. I can reach the bleeder screw underneath the slave actuator without removing it from the transmission. I was thinking of bleeding it like normally bleeding brakes. I looked it up in the FSM and it says to remove the actuator to bleed it. Is that really necessary?

My next question is should I do it the traditional way or using a MightyVac and reverse bleeding it?

Lastly, the FSM says I can push most of the air out by taking the cover and the moisture trap off the master cylinder and gently stroking the clutch. I can see how this would push air up to the master cylinder and would be the easiest bleeding method. Is this too easy and I should stick to one of the aforementioned bleeding methods?

My main question is does the actuator have to be off the car to bleed it?

Thanks!
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Old Mar 19, 2009 | 09:00 PM
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Old Mar 19, 2009 | 10:26 PM
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I'm hoping to get some feedback Friday while people are checking these forums instead of working.
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Old Mar 19, 2009 | 10:40 PM
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I would think the actuater has to be off. Otherwise it will be continually pushing on the slave cylinder, and wouldn't get any fluid down there... but I could be wrong. I changed my slave cylinder over the winter and had to bleed the system. It isn't a hard job.
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Old Mar 20, 2009 | 02:56 PM
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Well in the absence of any other replies I'm going to do it tomorrow the old fashioned way I think and also remove the actuator.
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Old Mar 21, 2009 | 01:18 PM
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HOPEFULLY THIS IS NOT TOO LATE...

DO NOT BLEED THE SLAVE WITH IT REMOVED FROM THE TRANSMISSION!!

It will push the piston too far out, risk popping the rubber nose off, and pushing the piston/seal into the non-machined or corroded area and you'll likey have leaks thereafter.

At best, with removed, just do a gravity bleed (no pedal movement at at all).

Thereafter, reinstall and then bleed like normal -- and finish up with 50 pedal pushes of moderate speed to move any remaining air to the master.
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Old Mar 21, 2009 | 03:03 PM
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hi, with the gravity method how long do you let it set? and was the option of doing it with the cap and tophat off slowly pedaling work?
thanks ! been fighting this all morning. sorry for intruding.
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Old Mar 21, 2009 | 06:35 PM
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I bled mine with the slave cylinder off the tranny. My slave cylinder had two stops machined into it so the piston couldnt come out. I held the slave cylinder vertical and got someone to pump the clutch while I bled it like a normal brake system. Check yours and see if it has the two stopper thingies.
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Old Mar 22, 2009 | 08:50 AM
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Ok well I did it yesterday and actually started removing the slave cylinder from the transmission and decided after it was just loosened to try and bleed conventionally to see if it worked.

It did and with my wife in the car pumping and holding the clutch and me releasing and closing the bleeder screw everything went smoothly. I tightened down the slave cylinder to the transmission and put the car down.

After pumping the clutch pedal about 50 times it works like a champ.

Thanks to the replies.
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Old Mar 22, 2009 | 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by MikeIz 82VETTE
hi, with the gravity method how long do you let it set? and was the option of doing it with the cap and tophat off slowly pedaling work?
thanks ! been fighting this all morning. sorry for intruding.
Hey Mike, on mine when I loosened the bleeder screw the fluid starts coming out pretty darned quickly. I think the danger in using gravity alone is that the fluid will bypass any debris in the line whereas if there's pressure it's more likely to push it out.

By the way not related to your post but related to the bleeding, I tried using a Mighty Vac to reverse bleed it and that thing is useless. I spilled more clutch fluid than anything. lol

Last edited by -=Tom=-; Mar 24, 2009 at 10:33 PM.
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Old Mar 22, 2009 | 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by -=Tom=-
Hey Mike, on mine when I loosened the bleeder screw the fluid starts coming out pretty darned quickly. I think the danger in using gravity alone is that the fluid will bypass any debris in the line whereas if there's pressure it's more likely to push it out.

By the way not related to your post but related to the bleeding, I tried using a Mighty Vac to reverse bleed it and that thing is useless. I spilled more clutch fluid that anything. lol
Thanks Tom! glad to hear everything went well. gonna try to bleed mine tommorrow since the wife had my whole weekend planned out!
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Old Mar 23, 2009 | 10:18 AM
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Sounds like you got it already but this guy works wonders:

http://www.brakebleeder.com/product.php?pid=2

Phoenix Injector, this is also what Bill @ZFDoc recommends.

Had a 93' where I tried everything under the sun, spent many hours, etc etc - bought this thing and had clutch pedal in about 30 seconds!
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Old Mar 24, 2009 | 08:31 PM
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I reverse bled mine with a phoenix injector and it worked great, a shop that works on mostly Vettes said it was the best feeling clutch they ever drove on a C4.
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