Hello everyone

Can anyone tell me how to procedures in replacing valve cover gaskets torque specs ect

while I have theses off should anything else be checked or torqued

thanks.

 

I'm getting ready to do mine on my 87. I would like to know how to apply the gasket sealer stuff. Do I make a bead along the bottom or do I use my fingers and smear it on? Also want any extra input. Sorry I couldn't be of much help. On my 87 the torque specs are 90 in. lbs.

 

I would call a Corvette specialist before using gasket sealer. The 'gasket sealer' trends seem to change with time. I was in a dealership last month with this discussion and they felt very strongly that you should never use gasket seal anywhere that there will be oil or antifreeze. On the other hand, I think it is standard procedure to use RTV on intake manifolds for mid-90's Chevy's.

When I replace the valve cover gaskets on my Dodge over the winter I did not use any gasket sealer and it seem to work well.

 

Todd you should not need any sealer if you use the Fel Pro rubber ones maybe just a dap in corner of cover if you need to hold it in but they stretch to fit in groove of cover.

 

I don't have my FSM at the moment. Valve covers are pretty simple. On my 95 I have to flip the alternator out the way to get the drivers side cover off. Unplug the battery first and be careful not to rip out the hidden alternator connector under it. It's probbaly brittle from age. The correct replacement gaskets for my 95 were thin and slide in a slot under the covers edge. Autozone had them for $20 in Felpro brand. No sealer was needed. Do you still have the EGR to deal with? I pulled mine off with the header install. The torque on the valve covers is very little (in/lb's). I've broken off several bolts in them. I did it again Sunday. I had to pull the stud and drill out the bolt with one of this remover kits.

 

I just re-did mine on my 85. I got new gaskets from kragen and they were a metal reinforced rubber gasket, passenger side did not seal when i installed them dry. I just removed them and used Hi Temp Copper gasket maker (for valve covers) and so far they have been ok (considering i have a few other major issues, i have not put to many miles on it). The torque in the SM shows a differnce for bolted valve covers or studded, for mine it was bolted and the torque range was 50-120 in/lb i used 90. I believe i have differnt heads since its an 85, the mating surface on the head is not machined thats probably why i needed sealant.

 

Not sure about metal reinforced rubber gasket the ones on my car you could of wadded into a ball and put them in your pocket they work great. They have asmall lenght wise ribbing system to help seal. Todds 87 has aluminum heads top area should be smooth.

 

Thanks, I'm starting the job this weekend. Wish me luck. Todd

 

For my '96, the FSM says 106 in/lb. Make sure you get new rubber donuts for the bolts with your gasket set - they're supposed to come with the gaskets, but the first set I bought was missing them.

 

my name is Todd also

Im going to start on replacing mine today that is if I can find some. I went in Advanced Auto ordered some they dont fit I called back check stock number. I ordered another set from Summit same thing they dont fit they were both about an inch to long. Im going to the dealer today with the valve covers to see what is going on.

thanks for the quick responses on the 1st question I will let you know what i find out at the dealer.

 

Mine seemed like they were too long, but I just compressed them a bit as I snapped them into the groove, and they worked fine.

 

Also on the torque. I've had my valve covers off so many times I don't even waste my time trying to get the correct torque. I snug them down and have never had a leak.

 

I wish I would have seen the last post yesterday about tighening the valve covers but it was to late

word to the rest

I thought I was doing everything right taking my time using the forum heres what went wrong

yesterday after ordering some Fel pro gaskets from Summet and advanced auto they both looked to big I went to the GM dealer and a mech showed me they fit you just pinch them into place that will take up the extra slack. just to let you know summit gaskets cost $32.00 and Advanced Auto's cost $19.00 thay are both the same no difference. rip off.

It gets better I go to put on the valve covers on wanting to do this right so for the first time I go to use a torque wrench. I call Gm and ask them for the foot pounds spec for the valve cover screws. They tell me 15 ft pounds. Well something in my head said no but I thought lets go with there recommendation. As i tightened one of the bolts broke off in the head. I attempted to tap it out using a left hand drill bit went to far and hit the water jacket. bad bad bad I since towed the car to a machine shop where they are looking at it now.

They said they will attempt to redrill it plug it and try to thread it if not they would have to take the head off to place on a work bench.

I thank all of you that helped me on this I always tell everyone with a car question to check the forum pages first I wish I would have read the last post before I went this far, It would have saved me. a congrats to all of you and I take the blame along with the morrrrrron from the gm dealer.

I will let youknow how much this mistake cost me

 

That's a tough "lesson learned".

 

What broke off? The stud, valve cover bolt, or head bolt? I just broke another valve cover bolt off last Sunday. I pulled the stud out with an allen wrench. I then removed the broken bolt with a bolt remover kit from Autozone. It took about 10 minutes.

FWIW, I did the exact same thing the first time I took my valve covers off. I used ft-lb's not in-lb's. I broke just about every bolt off.

 

I'm sorry but there are only a few things on a car that really require that they be torqued to a set spec, valve covers are not in my opinion on that list. Some where common sence has to take hold. I feel bad you had a problem on what should of been a straight forward project.

 

I'm going to be doing mine today. I'm just going to snug the bolts back up. If they leak, i'll snug them a little more.

I do notice that there are some lines in the way of the passenger side valve cover, I'll have to jockey around them. They don't seem to give too much. I was worried about how to get the valve cover and the gasket to stay in place while I put it back on around the lines, but if it's grooved under there, seems like a non issue.

Looks like I'll have o remove the plastic cover bolts to the the electrical harness to move out of the way, then I'll be able to dodge the air lines.

Any other suggestions?

 

1994 Valve cover gasket replacement

Had to loosen two bolts to relax the wiring harness above the valve cover. Also, had to take one bolt out near the firewall/strut to relax the cooling line. Easiest Valve cover gasket I've ever replaced. Used the rubber Fel-pro, and it pops right in like a Ziploc, and stays in place. I kind of had to manhandle the old center post grommets out, but didn’t damage the valve cover. The old grommets seem to like to come out in two pieces, and the new ones popped right in. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE CENTER POST BOLTS.

I just snugged them. They are so thin at the bottom; I can see where folks would have issues with snapping them off in the head. I also suggest rubbing a little spit on the bolts to get them to glide back in and line up.

Driver’s side seems a little more involved, only in the fact that I have to flip the alternator to get the valve cover off. It’s not leaking at all, and I may leave it be for now. I think the oiling filler/filling/twisting on the passenger side is what added to the seepage on the passenger side.

Probably the easiest replacement I’ve done on any car. Oh, I did cut one inch squares of sandpaper, and used my fingers to get in there and sand any dirt from the head rim for a good seal.

I don't see a need for any sealant product here at all. Just make sure you clean up the head rail and have a bright shiny surface to seat on. IMHO: I would not listen to anyone speaking of torque specifications on the center posts. I would snug them, run it, check it. Repeat process as many times as needed, but do not over tighten. If you still have a leak, get a different gasket. You only need to tighten them enough to seal it up. Keep in mind, gaskets are cheap when it comes to drilling out the head to get you center post bolt out, or possibly damaging your head.
Again, I’m not expert, this is just my humble opinion.