Max lowering
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 13,960
Likes: 707
From: WI
Max lowering
I snapped a few pictures while working on lowering the front. There is a bump on the outboard side that is just over 3/16", in the picture a single shim is in there. The shims are 3/16" thick.
Next there is a bump inboard about a 1/4", that will rub your spring if you don't have enough wedge. You can seen the difference in this picture:
This is the lowering wedge shim in place:
It is 1/2" thick and shouldn't be used in my opinion because it can squash like what happened to CentralCoaster. If you have these wedges installed, please check your spring retainer bolts for tightness! I'd also check for spring rubbing. Note the squashed wedge and the rubbed/damaged spring:
What I'm going to do is run two metal spacers in there so that I will never get into having to little wedge. What I did was belt sand most of the rubber wedge away since the metal shims will be making up the majority of the height needed to clear those metal bumps in the spring channel. I also belt sanded most of the rubber off the spring ends for more drop.
So to get the max amount of lowering you need to just clear that inboard bump with wedge that won't squash.
Next there is a bump inboard about a 1/4", that will rub your spring if you don't have enough wedge. You can seen the difference in this picture:
This is the lowering wedge shim in place:
It is 1/2" thick and shouldn't be used in my opinion because it can squash like what happened to CentralCoaster. If you have these wedges installed, please check your spring retainer bolts for tightness! I'd also check for spring rubbing. Note the squashed wedge and the rubbed/damaged spring:
What I'm going to do is run two metal spacers in there so that I will never get into having to little wedge. What I did was belt sand most of the rubber wedge away since the metal shims will be making up the majority of the height needed to clear those metal bumps in the spring channel. I also belt sanded most of the rubber off the spring ends for more drop.
So to get the max amount of lowering you need to just clear that inboard bump with wedge that won't squash.
Pro
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 655
Likes: 2
From: Rio Vista ca.
Hi Andrew,
You have a good photo there that shows how the spring retainer bolts are NOT threaded all the way to the top. I ran out of threads when I reinstalled the spring with cut bushings and retainer brackets. I had to use some spacers between the bottom of the bracket and spring retainer nuts. If the bolts start to spin when you get the retainer bracket snugged up there's a good chance you may have run out of threads too.
Kim
You have a good photo there that shows how the spring retainer bolts are NOT threaded all the way to the top. I ran out of threads when I reinstalled the spring with cut bushings and retainer brackets. I had to use some spacers between the bottom of the bracket and spring retainer nuts. If the bolts start to spin when you get the retainer bracket snugged up there's a good chance you may have run out of threads too.
Kim
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,068
Likes: 6
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 240
Likes: 0
From: Peachtree City GA
I seem to have an issue with the wedge being flat, The side of the wedge closest to the outside of the spring isnt tight against the frame but the inside is. did anybody else have this problem?
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 13,960
Likes: 707
From: WI
Well this amount of wedge made the car lower just over 1". My car was really high to start with. 28" and it's now 27" at the front fender.
Quick picture:
I ended up reusing the stock spring bolts. I thought of getting shorter ones but I had one that kept spinning and it was nice to grab the end with a vice grips then tighten it.
Quick picture:
I ended up reusing the stock spring bolts. I thought of getting shorter ones but I had one that kept spinning and it was nice to grab the end with a vice grips then tighten it.
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