Lowering Retainers
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 240
Likes: 0
From: Peachtree City GA
Lowering Retainers
Finally got the brackets in , This is the second set. I think the difference in with between the 1985 set and the late model set is why they bend. I made perfect cuts and they still bent.
I believe its from the pressure of the spring when you tighten the bolts.
heres the difference in the two brackets
late model on top
Close up of Spring and the first bracket that broke as I closed up the gap at the wedge.
Also heres a picture of the First wedges or what came stock on the 85
I believe its from the pressure of the spring when you tighten the bolts.
heres the difference in the two brackets
late model on top
Close up of Spring and the first bracket that broke as I closed up the gap at the wedge.
Also heres a picture of the First wedges or what came stock on the 85
Pro
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 655
Likes: 2
From: Rio Vista ca.
The FSM for my '89 coupe says to put the suspension under load before torquing the retainer nuts. I used my floor jack to raise the lower control arm untill the shock was compressed and the car just began to come up off the jack stand, then tightend the nuts before repeating the process on the other side.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 9,921
Likes: 38
From: South Carolina
St. Jude Donor '03 & '05
Arent the 85's steel too? I tightened mine with a little tension, like poster above did. It helped, but it was a little snug, no bending when I finally cut it correctly.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 240
Likes: 0
From: Peachtree City GA
The FSM for my '89 coupe says to put the suspension under load before torquing the retainer nuts. I used my floor jack to raise the lower control arm untill the shock was compressed and the car just began to come up off the jack stand, then tightend the nuts before repeating the process on the other side.
Does the FSM say to just Strart the bolts on the retainer and then Install the control arms and shock, Then tighen the retainers?
Im ready to give up!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 9,921
Likes: 38
From: South Carolina
St. Jude Donor '03 & '05
Im ill With the whole process, I was looking at the retainers and these also look bowed, I think of finding a factory spring and just forgeting the whole thing....
Does the FSM say to just Strart the bolts on the retainer and then Install the control arms and shock, Then tighen the retainers?
Im ready to give up!
Does the FSM say to just Strart the bolts on the retainer and then Install the control arms and shock, Then tighen the retainers?
Im ready to give up!
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...ll-w-pics.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...-lowering.html
Pro
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 655
Likes: 2
From: Rio Vista ca.
Im ill With the whole process, I was looking at the retainers and these also look bowed, I think of finding a factory spring and just forgeting the whole thing....
Does the FSM say to just Strart the bolts on the retainer and then Install the control arms and shock, Then tighen the retainers?
Im ready to give up!
Does the FSM say to just Strart the bolts on the retainer and then Install the control arms and shock, Then tighen the retainers?
Im ready to give up!
Don't give up. It took me over 2 weeks to do what some consider a 4 hour job. I had a lot of help from people on this forum and referred to the FSM more than once. PM me if I can help.
Kim
Pro
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 655
Likes: 2
From: Rio Vista ca.
While the suspension was under load I did all of the final torquing. I torqued the sway bar bolts, the lower control arm bolts, and the spring retainer nuts. My FSM helped in this process but I couldn't have done it without the help of Aardwolf, Weav'sVet, Epimax1, and a bunch of other guys here and on other forums. Just keep asking questions until you get it done.
Good luck, Kim
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 240
Likes: 0
From: Peachtree City GA
The Wedge pad which is about 1/4" thick, only the very inboard side of the the wedge is touching the frame. From this veiw it appears that the pad is not touching But it is on the insde part of the wedge.
The retainers are not to long, and there are NO screw causing it to sit Lopsided.
In this shot Looking at the frame abbove the pad,
The frame dosnt seem to be straight across from Front to rear.
Im guessing thats why chevy Used the thick aluminum Shim between the frame and the retainers
This is the Drivers side, I dont think The Bracket is to Short as the Pad is not seated on the frame all the way across, At least on the outboard side of the wedge,and the retainer bracket still bent.
The white stuff Is lithium Grease by the way.
Dont know if you can see the bend in the retainer but it is there.
Passanger side
Im not a complete Idiot, But I certainly dont understand this process, Im going to order new wedges and brackets one more time.
Anybody live close to Brooks Georgia?
Maybe if nothing else this will teach somebody what not to do.
Anybody have a stock set up for an 85 ( spring and all)?
Last edited by rte203; Mar 29, 2009 at 12:53 PM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 240
Likes: 0
From: Peachtree City GA
I installed the driver side, then using a floor jack i jacked up on the very end of the spring install the retainer and bolts on the passanger side.
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 13,951
Likes: 705
From: WI
I think the inboard top of the spring may be hitting the frame.
Here is a picture to illustrate:
There is a bump sticking down on the outboard side of the frame of just over 3/16", the single shim there is 3/16". Next there is another bump sticking down a lot more, illustrated by the horizontal shim. I think you need more wedge in there.
Check by sticking your finger up around the top of the spring and find that frame bump. You can also stick a hack saw blade between the shim as a probe.
Here are two pictures of mine buttoned up:
I'm very close to the absolute minimum wedge that can be used without the spring hitting that inboard frame bump. Just under 1/8" of clearance with the amount of wedge shown, two shims at 3/16" each. Plus 1/8" of rubber left on the spring.
Here is a picture to illustrate:
There is a bump sticking down on the outboard side of the frame of just over 3/16", the single shim there is 3/16". Next there is another bump sticking down a lot more, illustrated by the horizontal shim. I think you need more wedge in there.
Check by sticking your finger up around the top of the spring and find that frame bump. You can also stick a hack saw blade between the shim as a probe.
Here are two pictures of mine buttoned up:
I'm very close to the absolute minimum wedge that can be used without the spring hitting that inboard frame bump. Just under 1/8" of clearance with the amount of wedge shown, two shims at 3/16" each. Plus 1/8" of rubber left on the spring.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 240
Likes: 0
From: Peachtree City GA
Ardwolf, That seem like the right track....I think your right I believe the spring is topping out in this case.
Are you just using pieces of aluminum 3/16" thick Cut to size for your shims?
Are you just using pieces of aluminum 3/16" thick Cut to size for your shims?
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 13,951
Likes: 705
From: WI
I reused the two stock shims for minimum height in there. If my car hadn't come with them I would have used some flat stock instead. Here is a picture of the lowering wedge that is sold, held in place:
It's 1/2" thick and if you don't want to mess around fitting things, should be consider minimum shim needed. I won't use those after seeing how CentralCoaster's shim squashed. You can see where it was rubbed by the inboard frame bump:
It's 1/2" thick and if you don't want to mess around fitting things, should be consider minimum shim needed. I won't use those after seeing how CentralCoaster's shim squashed. You can see where it was rubbed by the inboard frame bump:
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 240
Likes: 0
From: Peachtree City GA
No, dont want that, I like the way your pictures looked with the Aluminum Shims, Im excited Again. I cant wait to Take it back apart and give in another go. I will go with the aluminum Shims, Thanks For the advice.
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 13,951
Likes: 705
From: WI
Glad to help! I tried to get all I could on mine for lowering. You can get a finger to the top inboard bump to check if it's hitting. I raised mine in place several times and can say just plan 1/2" of incompressible shim and it'll be good. Mine is a hair under that and clears but hasn't been driven yet!
Had I needed to make some shim I'd have just got some flat stock from town.
Had I needed to make some shim I'd have just got some flat stock from town.
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,455
Likes: 2
From: East TN
I just broke a set of retainers when I tried to raise the height of my '94. VBP sent some rubber pieces to glue on top of the spring, and when I tightened the retainers they both cracked. I got some advice here to lengthen the retainers so there is no gap between them and the frame and the second set went in perfect. The first set was too short and caused the retainers to bend and eventually snap. I cut off the top of the broken retainers to use as shims for the new ones.