dtc p1441 1996 LT4
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 158
Likes: 0
From: Somewheres in FL
dtc p1441 1996 LT4
on my LT4 96, code keeps coming up despite finding no vacuum leaks, and a new evap purge solenoid. After resetting the code, it takes a while of driving around to get it to come back on. Gas tank holds good pressure, when I take cap off there's a whoosh sound so I doubted it's that. On both evap purge solenoids, old and new, when I disconnect the lower of the vac lines, it's continuously sucking air. What should I replace next, the evap pressure control valve in the R rear or at the evap purge vac switch in front of the solenoid-- or elsewhere? thx
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 3,629
Likes: 28
From: FL
on my LT4 96, code keeps coming up despite finding no vacuum leaks, and a new evap purge solenoid. After resetting the code, it takes a while of driving around to get it to come back on. Gas tank holds good pressure, when I take cap off there's a whoosh sound so I doubted it's that. On both evap purge solenoids, old and new, when I disconnect the lower of the vac lines, it's continuously sucking air. What should I replace next, the evap pressure control valve in the R rear or at the evap purge vac switch in front of the solenoid-- or elsewhere? thx
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 3,629
Likes: 28
From: FL
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 785
Likes: 3
From: Richmond Virginia
I had this code about a year or so back...I removed the old purge valve blew thru it and found it stuck open....replaced the valve,cleared codes..4-5 days later ck eng. light back on-- same code--removed the new purge valve---stuck open....hmmmmm seems i had forgotten to check something I'd learned years ago and had seen more then once since...when the ecm commands the purge valve open it pulls directly from the evap cannister...the cannister had come apart internally and when the purge valve opened little bits of charcoal were sucked into the valve causing it to stick open and bingo p1441.
the fix was replacing the cannister---used a battery and jumper wires to hold the purge valve open..blew thru it with shop air to clean it out so that it was closed with no voltage as it should be...I then used air to blow thru the line between valve and cannister to clean the line and installed new cannister.
Here's the "test" remove the purge valve..lay a clean paper towel on the floor and lightly tap the valves nipples on the towel...if little black "bits " show up on the towel..then cannister is likely bad...not sure if the FSM is specific on something like this...but try it and post back on the results....Good Luck
the fix was replacing the cannister---used a battery and jumper wires to hold the purge valve open..blew thru it with shop air to clean it out so that it was closed with no voltage as it should be...I then used air to blow thru the line between valve and cannister to clean the line and installed new cannister.
Here's the "test" remove the purge valve..lay a clean paper towel on the floor and lightly tap the valves nipples on the towel...if little black "bits " show up on the towel..then cannister is likely bad...not sure if the FSM is specific on something like this...but try it and post back on the results....Good Luck
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 1,484
Likes: 69
From: Raleigh NC
My fix to the P1441 code on my 1996 LT4 was I to install a new evap canister. It’s located on the passenger side on the car, next to the fuel tank. To get to it you have to remove the inner wheel well shroud.
Once the old can was out I disconnected the tube (hard plastic) that ran from the can (rear of the car) to the valve just off the engine. Disconnected the line from the valve as well. I blew compressed air through the line and saw a black puff of dust come out. Now the line in basically clean enough (I hope).
I then installed the new can. (Also bought 4’ of 7/16 line to replace the deteriorating line in the engine compartment) Even though the can was an OEM part, the mounting tabs did not align up exact but I managed to get it good enough so the mounting strap on the car was able to hold the can in place.
I have driven the car for over 200 miles and wala, no P1441 code!
Once the old can was out I disconnected the tube (hard plastic) that ran from the can (rear of the car) to the valve just off the engine. Disconnected the line from the valve as well. I blew compressed air through the line and saw a black puff of dust come out. Now the line in basically clean enough (I hope).
I then installed the new can. (Also bought 4’ of 7/16 line to replace the deteriorating line in the engine compartment) Even though the can was an OEM part, the mounting tabs did not align up exact but I managed to get it good enough so the mounting strap on the car was able to hold the can in place.
I have driven the car for over 200 miles and wala, no P1441 code!
Last edited by JimsCorvettes; Aug 16, 2009 at 06:38 PM. Reason: The error code came back..... I knew I should have waited to post! When I have solved it I'll post again. I agree, PITA..
Racer
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 297
Likes: 19
From: arlington TX
I know this thread is finished, but a tip - my canister was coming apart and sending charcoal pellets to the solenoids and sticking them open. I put a cheap plastic fuel filter in the rubber vacuum line by the front wheel well to catch the pellets. Empty (take off and tap)the filter every once in a while. Cures the symptom, not the problem, but keeps codes from being set (inspection time?).
Later.
z.
Later.
z.
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