Lowered - correcting bump steer?
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: WI
Lowered - correcting bump steer?
Now that my car is fully lowered, what have others done for correcting bump steer? I see Exotic Muscle sells a kit, anyone used it? From memory of other cars I think the rear toe rod gets shimmed up around 5/8" and the front down? Any good home made ideas for checking?
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Joined: Mar 2001
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From: Boston, Dallas, Detroit, SoCal, back to Boston MA
Fully lowered?
It depends on how much you lower it.
You need to measure your bump steer
EDIT
Here's how to measure it
http://stockcarproducts.com/tech1n.htm
It depends on how much you lower it.
You need to measure your bump steer
EDIT
Here's how to measure it
http://stockcarproducts.com/tech1n.htm
Last edited by BrianCunningham; Apr 3, 2009 at 05:42 PM.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 13,961
Likes: 707
From: WI
I'm thinking about copying what others have done till I can get something like that. Or find a shop that has one. Craig Brian Johnson posted about .665" shim in the rear. Do you just put shim on top of the spindle?
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 13,961
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From: WI
I've been talking with CJ on what he did. His car was so lowered the frame was notched for clearance. So .665" would not be accurate for mine.
He drilled out the spindle for a straight bolt, as you can't shim and have the tapered bolt slopping around in there. So a ball joint that has a straight bolt would be needed.
I'm surprised more people aren't doing this mod. It's especially important for those members that bought the DRM rear relocating brackets. As those let the car squat more, further going toe out. Maybe they run 1/4" toe in?
I'm going to try 1/8" toe in for now and replace the ball joints later. I know I need front ones as well and the tie rod was ready for replacement.
Edit, Banski and VBP rear toe rods come with an insert to use in the knuckle.
He drilled out the spindle for a straight bolt, as you can't shim and have the tapered bolt slopping around in there. So a ball joint that has a straight bolt would be needed.
I'm surprised more people aren't doing this mod. It's especially important for those members that bought the DRM rear relocating brackets. As those let the car squat more, further going toe out. Maybe they run 1/4" toe in?
I'm going to try 1/8" toe in for now and replace the ball joints later. I know I need front ones as well and the tie rod was ready for replacement.
Edit, Banski and VBP rear toe rods come with an insert to use in the knuckle.
Last edited by Aardwolf; Apr 11, 2009 at 05:38 PM.
