I thought I'd put this info out there. If you want to use a standard rotation pump they can supply one that should fit. I'm looking into this as these pumps don't usually make it long for road course use. I think they can do a standard rebuild as well but I was just checking into a racing pump.

$100 to rebuild your pump if the parts are OK. They no longer make parts so if something is worn they can go get you a reman pump for $250.

$225 for the better aluminum pump (2 lbs weight savings) standard rotation. My belt setup would be fine with this. They also offer a billet pulley (C5 pulley upgrade from stock plastic pulley) for $65. The pulley isn't solid like the stock one so that you can better access the bolts to easily remove the pump. A light weight pulley is nice too! You can get a pump with AN fittings.

A race rebuild pump uses 1/2 HP less power in a straight line. 3 HP less in a corner using 5,000 RPM as an example.

They charge $200 to rebuild a rack or $450 for a new one.

More info:

When we put high loads on our steering systems at the track, this increases the pressure/loads on the power steering pump. The power steering pump does have a bypass valve built into it if the pressure/loads become too large for it to handle. However, once the power steering pump starts activating that bypass valve, it won't last very long before the pump fails.

Their rebuild:
1) Designed to operate at higher pressure
2) Requires less horsepower to operate
3) Will reduce power steering fluid temps around 20° F

The max temp for power steering fluid is 275° F. So what we should do is do some hot laps and then come in and measure the fluid temp. If it is under 275° F, we're fine. If it is over, then we need a larger cooler.

The race pump flows less GPM, 10 GPM compared to 15 GPM stock. This may change how much effort is required to turn at low speed.

 

I've used a Turn One pump for the last several years. Slightly higher effort on the street, but a great addition for the track. Went thru multiple ps pumps prior to making the switch.

They have excellent customer service as well.

 

I was talking to AGR (www.agrperformance.com) and they thought the fluid should stay under 180°. He said to just measure the fluid in the reservoir and check. I'll update this with some track temps over the summer.

I'm not sure if Turn One does this or not but I was talking to AGR about the rack. They can turn the tube so that the line doesn't stick right up in front of the crank pulley. It's kind of in the way to work there! Neat idea.

They can make the pump turn either way, it doesn't matter. They can adjust the flow/pressure to whatever you'd like. This can make the steering easier but would consume more HP.

The make a baffled reservoir. If you re-plumb the stock unit it should have suction rated hose. They thought it should be vented too. If you use an aluminum reservoir your under hood temp should stay less then the fluid temperature or your under hood temp will heat the fluid.

 

I've heard nothing but good things from Turn One pumps, specifically the LS1 f-body pumps. Great upgrade for road race cars.

I had my factory LT1 pump redone by PSC in DFW, Texas, with good results.

 

All my powerstering problems vanished when I installed a Turnone pump and DRM pressure line. When I roadraced one or the other would always break. I went through a few pumps and about 4 GM lines.

 

Thanks for the info Andrew! I talked to them a while back to get some pricing and basic info on the process. Great people to talk to and I too have heard nothing but good about their pumps.

 

+1 for Turn One. I have the aluminum body rebuild on my 96 6-speed and it takes high revs like a champ. The old pump whined for mercy and then gave up.

 

Great post Andrew. Another happy Turn One customer here.

 

The AGR prices were slightly higher then Turn One. I figured people may want to reference this when facing a pump replacement.