Just had my 89 with 149,00 checked for a coolant leak. Was put under pressure over night and the GM mechanic(not a dealership) said the only thing he found was a leak under the radiator which he then replaced. After I got it back and during cold start up, the left side valve train rattles and engine idols real bad for about the first 3-4 minuets and then smooths out. Took it back and they pulled plugs on that bank and at cold start said the head gasket was blown and want to pull both heads and new gaskets.
My question: does this sound like water/coolant is now leaking into a cylinder? Have been adding small quantities of coolant since radiator change but never had the start up noise. I am about tapped out $ wise with this car and wondering if any of the after market sealers really work and any other thoughts, comments or first hand advice you might have, thanks.

 

If its leaking at the head no sealer is going to help, gasket replacement is all that will fix it. Im sure thats what your problem was from the start,and yes its probably leaking into a cylinder and being vaporized.Be sure to do both heads or you will be back in there soon. How much is he going to charge?
Can you do the gaskets yourself, or with a friend that has mechanical experience?...WW

 

Your engine did well to last that long before HG replacement.

 

Thanks for the advice and reply. The garage wants 11 hrs @$78.00 for 1 side and 9 hrs for the other head. This does not count any head work. Can get them resurfaced and the valves ground for $206.00 from a friend who owns a machine shop. I am 3rd owner on this car and have no idea what was done prior to my buying it. Thought I bought it right 1 year ago for $5800.00 with new top, seats, tires, etc. Now turning into a night mare and somewhere the "bleeding" has to stop. Spent almost $800.00 on injector and injector flush, etc. 6 months ago. Years ago I owned both a '66 and a '78 and vowed the '78 would be the last. Didn't exactly stick to my convictions.

None of the "Stell Seal or the like will help temporarily? Bite the bullet or punt?

thanks for any additional help or advice.

Jim

 

If you can't do your own work these things they can bleed you dry over time. Good Luck

 

Sounds like you getting bled right quick. L-98 head job is no fun....but it seems to me this could be done in a 10-12 hour day. Any paid mechanics to chime in?

 

I don't know about the l98 head job being done under 10 hours - I'm guessing part of it is the stuff that needs to b done to take the intake off and on.

On the LT1 I proably can get it done in a long day. Only done it twice on my 92, I'm not a pro at all.

 

Im no pro by a long shot but I did my intake gaskets on my 89 in 6 to 7 hrs, that was with someone helping with cleaning the old material off the intake an block. So how much longer to do the heads, 6 to 7 hrs more sound about right?? 20 hrs sounds high to me..WW

 

time for a zz4 crate

 

Sure appreciate all the replies. This is turning into a tough decision. Got 1 additional estimate of 1200-1500 just for the r&r.Lot of mechanics don't wanna mess with it at all. Both heads can be re-done for a little over $200.00. Any first hand suggestions would be greatly APPRECIATED.
Do have questions regarding proper gaskets, etc. for the rebuild. Read that, a one time, GM didn't know the proper replacements and Felpro has several choices, compounds, styles to choose from. Have a direct e-mail address to someone, (or more) who would work with me one-on-one. Thanks again

Jim

 

I did my 86 in 2 days. I had heads ready to go.
1 day to take aopart and inspct and clean.
2nd day to meticulously reassemble with no finger prints, and making sure it looked all new.
I think you should do some reading and get your hands dirty.
You will find it isn't all that bad, and there is a big satisfaction that you did it for cost instead of inflated profit margins.

 

 

Bolt factor is high, but assuming they all come out, it's a straight forward job and if it's not a daily driver, there's no need to rush (assuming you write down or memorize how it all goes back together). These leaks are usually due to galvanic corrosion. They start out as a slight ooze, turn into a trickle; then - if it goes on long enough - carve a canyon between the coolant passageway and the piston. If you're lucky, the erosion will only be in the gasket - not so lucky - in the deck of the block.

Problem often arose at sometime before the original warranty expired and became obvious at around 50,000 miles. Given your mileage, I doubt it's been going on that long.

There are other things you might consider - especially if the coolant passageways in the heads are full of crud and pitted. 1. Get the radiator rodded out or buy a new one and make sure everything is out of the block. Ditto for the heater core which usually plugs up before the radiator. 2. You'll be moving the Nippo compressor out of the way to access the right side head. You don't need to disconnect anything - but if it's throwing compressor oil all over the hood or if the Evaporator is leaking, replace these items - particularly the Evaporator while the head is out of the way.

The shop times quoted are pretty much the flat rate - Assuming you only recondition the heads and replace gaskets (the block is going to have to be ok), you'll spend about $500 doing it yourself - up to a couple grand with new heads, a/c etc - still doing it yourself so you might consider how much your Vette is worth and proceed accordingly.

 

This is a common problem with aluminum heads. Aluminum expands and contracts at a different rate than the cast iron block. So at some time the head gasket goes out.

You have about $80 for Felpro head gaskets, about $25 for intake gaskets, $15 for "The RightStuff" gasket sealer, $20-30 for the runner/plenum gaskets and $20 for exhaust gaskets. Don't forget coolant.

You have to drain block, pull knock sensor to drain the passanger side nad the drain plug on the drivers side. Figure if you do this yourself two (2) days to pull everything down and put it back together again. Turn around on the heads....what ever your friend can do.

If you do this yourself.....label every wire, hose, vacuum line, bolts etc. Note that the bolts on the runners are different lengths (this is one reason to label everything).

You will need torx bits to pull off runners, and wrenches to pull off everything else. Torque wrench to put everything back together. Be sure to be prepared to plug off fuel lines.

If you have wrench experience it is not too difficult.

 

Again, I thank everyone who responded with incite and advice. Have decided to have the heads pulled, checked COMPLETELY. This includes a valve job, magnafluxed, retainers checked.

I now would appreciate your input(s) regarding the rebuild. I plan on replacing the injectors with a set of Accells 24lb(believe this is stock replacements). All things being equal and after finding no low end problems, any advice you can add to this rebuild would be appreciated. Since it will be torn down, I want it right and your "tips and tricks" would help.

Thanks again

Jim

 

I gather you're having someone else do this job? I'm also wondering if you can leave your car sit in your garage for a while. If you can then I say do it yourself. Now wait a minute here me out. Take lots of pictures before taking things apart for when things are going back together. Buy a shop manual and this can walk you through each step of job from start to finish. If it takes you a month well, look at the money saved. If this isn't your daily driver then maybe have at it. Once you get the heads off, take them somewhere to have them checked. Meanwhile you could be cleaning things while waiting to get the heads back.

Like it was mentioned before, label things and keep everything in order. You don't have to do this in a day or 2 (if the car can sit for a while). If you have to buy certain tools well that's cool as you'll aways have them. You can do this. Lot's of others have. Your 2 best weapons are, buy a shop manual and take pictures.

Oh, I'm a beilver in stock so I would stay with the stock injectors. The reason being is bigger injectors would like more air (different runners and a ported plenum). Then you'd want a stepped up cam to work with the more air and fuel. Oh, you'd want a new computer chip to work with the bigger injectors. What I'm saying is, leave it stock and don't invite problems with after market stuff.

 

Nothing against the Accells but talk to Jon @ FIC see sticky top of Tech Section lots of us are using the Bosh lll's great price on them might save you a few $$$. I think stock is 22 lb on a 89 L98 but I might be wrong & some manufactures might label different also.

 

My mistake, I thought I read he wanted bigger injectors. I learned something too, so the Bosh III's are the better replacement. I'll have to remember that if I ever need to replace mine on my 85.

 

Again, think I got some added advice I can use.
No, I am not doing the work myself and after tear down, head work estimated at 2-3 working days so there won't be a rush. Tried to research the Bosch injectors through summit racing but didn't find a listing for my '89. Plan on everything going back in new and stock. Looks as if my gasket set is pretty much out of stock everywhere till June 1st. This might present a problem.

Do have a question regarding the re-assembly of the head bolts. My machinist says use Permatex liquid Teflon on the studs? Any sugested alternative to the Accels, (stock GM? or?) Not too excited about the Fel-pro gasket set with rubber valve cover gaskes either.
Once again, any first hand info will be appreciated and considered. Got to get it right. Thanks

 

Check out sticky top of Tech Section for the Bosh III's
injector videos and questions