C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

TBI Colant Hose Bypass

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Old Apr 14, 2009 | 05:11 PM
  #1  
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Default TBI Colant Hose Bypass

Exact procedure for a 95'

I know it's much easier than the early models.

Thanx
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Old Apr 14, 2009 | 05:22 PM
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I don't have an exact procedure written out for you, but basically here's the gist:

1-Partially drain the coolant (complete drain isn't necessary, just enough so that coolant won't flow out of the TB lines)
2-Disconnect coolant lines from TB (one on passenger side, one on driver's side)
3-Connect them

#3 is probably the most difficult, but there are a few methods. I don't know the exact size, but if you found a tube or pipe of the same inner diameter as the rubber hoses, you could just stick that inside and use a caterpillar clamp on each hose to keep it clamped down. Some of the Corvette vendors sell kits to do this, but they're all overpriced. With a little research and a local hardware store, you can do it for a few bucks easily.

That being said, mine came with the bypass done in a much more subtle way. Wherever the coolant line to the TB comes out of, it was capped off there, so there isn't even a line running to the TB. I didn't do it, so I can't comment on exact procedure, but that's something to think about. Some sleuthing around under your hood should be able to figure that one out.
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Old Apr 14, 2009 | 05:30 PM
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Default TB bypass

So what is the benifit of bypassing the throttle body? Just about every L98 i've seen has it done. Anyone?
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Old Apr 14, 2009 | 05:34 PM
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Less mess to remove TB also a little less heat top of motor. Cleans up front area.
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Old Apr 14, 2009 | 05:41 PM
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As florida said, the primary reason is for a colder intake charge, therefore denser, therefore more powerful engine. In reality, the difference isn't much, but it is there.

In my experience, the first reason, of less mess to remove the TB, is the most important. I've removed my TB probably 15 times in the 1.5 years I've owned the car, and it's just a 4-bolt remove a few air hoses affair. Extremely simple. Bringing coolant in would really wreck my world.
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Old Apr 14, 2009 | 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by StealthLT4

In my experience, the first reason, of less mess to remove the TB, is the most important. I've removed my TB probably 15 times in the 1.5 years I've owned the car, and it's just a 4-bolt remove a few air hoses affair. Extremely simple. Bringing coolant in would really wreck my world.
A lot less hassel removing TB with a LTx motor & Opti if you don't have to deal with coolent every time. Refill bleed out the air refill bleed out the air ect!

Last edited by floridamale; Apr 14, 2009 at 05:48 PM.
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Old Apr 15, 2009 | 01:02 PM
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I'm Sold.

Thanx Guys
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Old Apr 18, 2009 | 07:55 AM
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Might be better to use the 3/8" to 5/8" coupling? Clamping down 5/8" to 3/8" on 14 year old hoses is not a good idea?
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Old Apr 18, 2009 | 08:52 AM
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Probably the easiest way is to just insert a SS Bolt,head cut off,or Ball Bearings inside each hose and put back on the T.B.?

Viola ! No Flow.

Last edited by CAJUN C4; Apr 18, 2009 at 08:57 AM.
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Old Apr 18, 2009 | 09:37 AM
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Hmm, not sure if blocking the flow of coolant would be a good thing. I'm not sure how the routing works, but the engine might need the circulation of coolant through there.
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Old Apr 18, 2009 | 09:54 AM
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I would not block coolant just eliminate from TB connect hose in to hose out
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Old Apr 18, 2009 | 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by floridamale
I would not block coolant just eliminate from TB connect hose in to hose out
Gotcha...I read this somewhere..I'll get a 3/8" x 5/8" connector.

Thanx
Guys
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Old Apr 18, 2009 | 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Targa86
So what is the benifit of bypassing the throttle body? Just about every L98 i've seen has it done. Anyone?
Less heat going through the TB that could warm up the incoming air. However, it was put there to prevent "icing" of the TB blades in cold weather. Obviously if you live in a warm climate then its not a problem.

My L98 does not have this mod and I dont plan on doing it. The stock setup doesnt bother me and I like to drive mine in just about any weather condition.
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Old Apr 18, 2009 | 01:44 PM
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The lines look more like 3/8" to 5/16" and not 5/8" on the Pass. Side.? Is this more accurate?...In fact I just looked at it again and the Drivers side looks 3/8" but the Pass. side looks like 5/16"/?It is a 95'..
Maybe the earlier models had 3/8" and 5/8" ????

Last edited by CAJUN C4; Apr 20, 2009 at 12:03 PM.
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Old Apr 20, 2009 | 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by CAJUN C4
The lines look more like 3/8" to 5/16" and not 5/8" on the Pass. Side.? Is this more accurate?...In fact I just looked at it again and the Drivers side looks 3/8" but the Pass. side looks like 5/16"/?It is a 95'..
Maybe the earlier models had 3/8" and 5/8" ????
Any comments on the hose sizes? It's definatly Not 5/8". The biggest is 3/8" I Believe.
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Old Apr 20, 2009 | 04:50 PM
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Done !

Picked up at least 10 HP.

Kidding. Wasn't bad..took about 30 Min. The hose off the engine seems to be about 5/16" or so.3/8" on the other side.

Thanx for your help.
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Old Apr 20, 2009 | 07:07 PM
  #17  
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On my LT, I was able to use the following hoses to eliminate the 'tee'. Makes for a cleaner install. Then get a couple tube caps in the Help! section at the Zone and cap off the open tb tubes. I'm pretty sure the p/n's are NAPA.

NBH9097 - Lower Radiator Hose – Standard 1993 hose. Routes from the lower radiator to thermostat housing.

NBH9096 - Upper Radiator Hose – 1995 LT hose. Eliminates ‘Tee’ to TB. Routes from the upper radiator to the water pump housing.

NBH11743 - Heater Hose – Standard 1993 hose. Upper surge tank outlet to upper heater core inlet at firewall.

NBH11719 - Heater Hose – 1995 LT hose. Routes from the lower surge tank connection to the upper water pump housing.

NBH10729 - Heater Hose – Standard 1993 hose. Routes from the heater flow control valve to the lower water pump housing.

NBH9808 - Heater Hose – Standard 1993 hose. Routes from the lower heater core inlet to the heater flow control valve.
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