Idle drop after starting
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Instructor
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 176
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From: Oakland CA
Idle drop after starting
This is my '88 automatic. I just installed a Superram with the stock base. I believe I've sealed all the vacuum leaks and set the timing with a light after eyeballing it. It turns out I had the timing at tdc or after. The engine wouldn't idle with the timing lead disconnected until I rotated the distributor clockwise at least six degrees. The only other modifications are that the discus has been removed and the air pump has no internal parts.
Anyhow, what happens when it is started is that the idle will rise to about 1300 briefly, fall to 500 or so and then stabilize at a nice even 700 rpm. It seems to do this any time it's started but only once right after starting. If I put it in gear while the idle is stabilizing it will stumble and possibly die but once stable, it is very steady in gear.
I also wanted to comment that I thought all the remarks about how annoying installing a Superram can be were exaggeration. I'm a believer now. I bought mine used and someone previously had reversed the bolts for the four inner runner to plenum points. I installed threaded inserts to return it to the original mounting method. I did use 12 point AN bolts which have a nice 5/16 head. Of course you can only use a box end or 12 point socket on them.
Anyhow, what happens when it is started is that the idle will rise to about 1300 briefly, fall to 500 or so and then stabilize at a nice even 700 rpm. It seems to do this any time it's started but only once right after starting. If I put it in gear while the idle is stabilizing it will stumble and possibly die but once stable, it is very steady in gear.
I also wanted to comment that I thought all the remarks about how annoying installing a Superram can be were exaggeration. I'm a believer now. I bought mine used and someone previously had reversed the bolts for the four inner runner to plenum points. I installed threaded inserts to return it to the original mounting method. I did use 12 point AN bolts which have a nice 5/16 head. Of course you can only use a box end or 12 point socket on them.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 28,422
Likes: 3,275
From: Hartford WI
It turns out I had the timing at tdc or after. The engine wouldn't idle with the timing lead disconnected until I rotated the distributor clockwise at least six degrees. The only other modifications are that the discus has been removed and the air pump has no internal parts.
Anyhow, what happens when it is started is that the idle will rise to about 1300 briefly, fall to 500 or so and then stabilize at a nice even 700 rpm. It seems to do this any time it's started but only once right after starting. If I put it in gear while the idle is stabilizing it will stumble and possibly die but once stable, it is very steady in gear.
I also wanted to comment that I thought all the remarks about how annoying installing a Superram can be were exaggeration. I'm a believer now. I bought mine used and someone previously had reversed the bolts for the four inner runner to plenum points. I installed threaded inserts to return it to the original mounting method. I did use 12 point AN bolts which have a nice 5/16 head. Of course you can only use a box end or 12 point socket on them.
Anyhow, what happens when it is started is that the idle will rise to about 1300 briefly, fall to 500 or so and then stabilize at a nice even 700 rpm. It seems to do this any time it's started but only once right after starting. If I put it in gear while the idle is stabilizing it will stumble and possibly die but once stable, it is very steady in gear.
I also wanted to comment that I thought all the remarks about how annoying installing a Superram can be were exaggeration. I'm a believer now. I bought mine used and someone previously had reversed the bolts for the four inner runner to plenum points. I installed threaded inserts to return it to the original mounting method. I did use 12 point AN bolts which have a nice 5/16 head. Of course you can only use a box end or 12 point socket on them.
You will need to reset base idle. If you have a scantool, the simplest way is to run the engine till it is hot and then set the TB blades in accordance to IAC counts. More counts, turn the screw in. Less counts, turn the screw out. Each adjustment you make, rev the engine. When you have 15-20 counts, you are done.
True. That was the trick Lingenfelters mentioned. Till you do that, it is a royal PITA if you do it that way. Still it isn't as easy as say a HSR.
