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When we built the 385 stroker for the Baja we went that route, had the machine shop thread the block and when we picked up the block and rotating assembly they had provided the plugs. No idea where they got them, but I could call Fowler's Monday and ask if you need a source.
I'm looking to replace the freeze plugs in my block with screw-in plugs. Anyone done that and can recommend a source ?
we did that back/day when 'endurance racing' big blocks in c3's...those were prone to loosing core plugs in side holes near front...threading the block was a pita as the block was too thin around the core hole to get proper thread depth, and taps had be modded (ground shorter) to miss cylinder jackets beyond core hole...we got brass "clean out plugs" from a local "plumbing supply" house (not your average 'hardware store')...the threaded plugs DO get 'loose' and need to be checked from time to time.
Thanks guys. I had a freeze plug pop out once and it was a b*tch to replace. Screwing in a loose one would be a he77 of a lot easier. Plus I believe you get better wall rigidity with a solid plug in those holes.
I'm going to tap and plug the oil gallery holes as well.
When we built the 385 stroker for the Baja we went that route, had the machine shop thread the block and when we picked up the block and rotating assembly they had provided the plugs. No idea where they got them, but I could call Fowler's Monday and ask if you need a source.
Did they also do the cam plug in the back of the block with a screw-in ?
Some of the old Ford X blocks came with them from the factory, 406, 427. I was glad to see chevy adopted the cam thrust plate into the LT1. I think it needs a little oil-passage slot machined into it though.
Did they also do the cam plug in the back of the block with a screw-in ?
thanks....
No.
We did tap the oil galley plugs.
Here is a thought if you are concerned about losing a core plug and don't wanna tap. You can use regular core plugs, but pin them in with allen screws. Just intall core plugs, drill and tap at an angle at the juncture of the plug and block, and locktite allen set screws in. I have done that before.
We went the threaded core plug route for a couple reasons, mainly concern over a plug loosening in a marine enviorment. It's a vasty different scenario than anything with wheels. It's no big deal for that engine to run WOT for 30-45 minutes...it pays to have everything bullet proof.
Not that I am a Ferd guy by any stretch of the imagination, but I think the Boss 302 was threaded....maybe not, been 30+ years
Just as I'm neither "democrat" nor "republican" (both sides of the same counterfeit coin), I'm also neither Ford nor Chevy, but a motor enthusiast - each had/have some good and bad points. Borrow from one and give to the other, when possible. Just like in politics - eek. I prefer chevies mostly because the availability and relatively low cost of parts and knowledge base of experience. Plus, the vette is worth my time in wrenching. So very lightweight !! One neg is is the independent rear suspension - at some point one would need to go to solid rear axle. but until then ....
Did they also do the cam plug in the back of the block with a screw-in ?
scribe the edge of the oem 'tin' plug prior to removal...center punch 4-6 spots on your 'scribe line' around the cam hole and drill 3/16'' dia shallow holes...install new 'tin' plug and then use small 'pin drift' to 'punch' edges of new plug into new shallow holes...pray that you are not the 'next guy' that wants to remove the plug.