I'm not sure how many months I've been working on it, a little bit at a time, but had some friends over Saturday night and got serious. Here's the results:



and



I'm sure I'll be reading a few threads I've bookmarked on here and asking for help from some of you.

Oh, by the way, anyone know the maximum outer diameter for a valve spring on stock LT1 heads without machining?

 

I updated the pictures, the first ones were taken with my phone at 1:00 AM right after we got it out.

I'm starting to get excited now. Next step, get the heads off, cleaned up, and down to the machine shop. While they're out getting valve work, I'll get my camshaft in and work on the 3.73 rear end. Then when the heads get back, it'll be time to put everything back together.

Ahh, and I need to get a tuned chip ordered form PCM4LESS asap...

 

Very nice, clean it well and look everything over really well!

 

Ok, the other day I used 3 cans of degreaser, a hose, and a scrub brush. It wasn't perfect, but it was much cleaner. Got all that road grime and crap off it. Wouldn't want that stuff getting inside the engine.

I'd show pictures of the engine all cleaned up, but I really did forget to take them. I'm kicking myself now, it looked so good. But I was too excited and took the heads off yesterday before I thought about getting the camera out. Oh well, I'll get better pictures when I put it back together anyway.

Now I've got to disassemble the heads and get them cleaned up and ready for the machine shop. I was amazed at the difference in shape between the intake ports on the manifold and the heads! It feels like there's enough material there to gasket match but I'll have to be careful because there's water right behind that wall and it angles in toward the intake port.

 

I see you took the hood off. Did you take the engine and tranny out as a unit still bolted together?

 

looks like fun!

 

Yes, I wasn't planning to do it that way but while I was trying to squeeze along the firewall to get to the two top engine/transmission bolts, we decided it would be easier to take the hood off and pull the transmission with the engine than to try to re-attach them inside the car without a levelling bar.

 

It really is, but you knew that already.

I'm finally to the point I wanted to be by Christmas. Got all the valves and springs off, most of the seals were still very good, 2 were not as snug as the rest, but still not leaking. The guides look great, no play at all but the valves slide through nicely. As hard as I've abused this engine, I'm pleased with how good it still looks inside. Probably would have lasted another hundred thousand miles, but don't tell my wife...

 

just to clarify, did you removed the engine just to refresh the heads? Or are you doing a complete rebuild?

I've always been curious to know why most owners dont remove the hood to get the engine out? I figured it was the concern of re-aligning it?

 

i've heard also that realigning the hood after it comes off is a PITA. i was told be someone else a long time ago that it takes like 4 people to realign the hood on one of these things...

 

Well, it all started with a drip from the water pump weep hole... Figured it needs the water pump & opti cap & rotor replaced, so it would be a good time to do a cam swap. Since I'm doing the cam, I need to do valve springs. If I'm going that far, I might as well pull the heads and clean them up, get a good valve job. And so on. If money was not an object, I'd probably be doing a 383 build already.

I wasn't planning on pulling the hood either, but then decided to pull the trans with the engine and the hood had to go.

 

Removed rear end today. It's a 3.07 D36 from the factory, if anyone wants it.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-p...r-section.html
Also got the camshaft out. The crank hub was a huge headache, until I realized the bolt I shoved into the crank snout wasn't long enough and replaced it with one 5 inches long, then it came right off. I already have a taker for the stock cam, my niece's boyfriend just bought a 91 TBI camaro basketcase and is looking to make some minor improvements. Maybe she picked a good one afterall...

 

The mailman dropped off my PCM for Less mail order tune, and I dropped the heads off at the machine shop today. After discussing the pros and cons of a 30 degree valve seat, I opted for the traditional 45 degree seats. But I did order the 3 angle valve job with bowl blending. I'll work on the pockets and port matching myself when they come back. Hopefully he won't have to take much if any material off the deck to get it flat, I'm already going to be over 11:1 compression with the SCE .021 head gaskets I ordered.

Now comes the difficult part, putting it all back together.

 

Ok, it's time for an update. The heads are done, the engine's back together, and Saturday I got it back in the car. The rear end is back together except for one lost bolt on the u-joint strap on the right side axle. Now it's just a matter of putting the accessories back on and connecting all the sensors and it'll be time to see if it starts...

 

Good luck with your project. I just got mine running again after swapping in a ZZ4. Just a few things left with exhaust and a dyno tune and mine will be good to go.

 

Lookin' Good

My car should be going through the same thing later this summer.

 

Hope she runs great! I am expecting to get my engine back late this week or early next week, so I'll be going through the same thing.

 

It's been a while since I updated this thread. Partially because I was getting frustrated, but knew it had to be something stupid and didn't want to give up and beg for help yet. Just a word of advice, if your hydraulic lifters have been sitting out of oil for a few weeks, leave the rocker arms pretty loose for your first start. If you adjust the valves to zero lash with empty hydraulic lifters and then they fill with oil, they will push all the valves open and your engine will not have any compression. When you turn it over, it will sound really strange, like an electric motor turning some machine or something. And if you turn it over enough, you'll have to put out a fire from the open headers beside the transmission.

Anyway, after replacing the fuel pump & filter to fix a 20 psi fuel system & then properly adjusting the valves, it starts and idles. I haven't put it in gear yet because the front was still on jackstands with the rear wheels on the ground until midnight last night. But it idles about 1000 rpm cold, then as it warms up it slows to around 850. Still seems a little bit high, but maybe when it's in gear it will drop a little.

Next step, get the hood on and attach the exhaust. Looks like I'll be able to take it out on the 4th! That's one of the goals I had, to be able to take it to my friend's 4th of July party. Well, time for a quick test drive around the block with no hood and open headers. This should get some looks!

 

The secret to putting the hood is to drill some 1/8 inch holes to allow easy alignment.

 

I'll see if I can get the youtube video to post here... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4l5YRWjZAtg

Ok, I give up for now, but there's the link.